Not true - refrigiums with flora eat nitrates plus theres qiute a few chemical media sources to rid nitrates. Ultimatley in time, like several years, as the sw tank with rocks mature denitrifying colonies will handle it.
Enough filtration for 220g?
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Not true - refrigiums with flora eat nitrates plus theres qiute a few chemical media sources to rid nitrates. Ultimatley in time, like several years, as the sw tank with rocks mature denitrifying colonies will handle it.
Im not new to fish but am new to this equipment. How does the refugium differ from the sump. What are there purpose? So the sump is my filter with lots of live rock and media and the refigium eats nitrates? And how does it eat nitrates
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Sounds like good filtration to me, way better than most people, nice setup, allot of power being run though for the setup could probably use a bit less filters and still be over filtered.
A sump by itself is nothing more than a large volume waterholding tank that generates oxygen via fast moving water contacting the atmosphere than recycling that same water in and out of the display tank - what you put in the sump determines it's filtration target. Ad LR you'll filter Nitros brakedown, add a filer sock - undissolved partical matter, add carbon you'll filter impurites + solids, add a skimmer - dissolved protiens, GFO - phosphates, Purigien - Nitrates and so on.............
A refrigium is a protected body of water that flows at a lowered rate using water in and out of the main tank. Deep sandbeds will hold denitrifying bacteria without creating a sand storm due to high flow rates. Plants/Flora like cheato can safely propagate in the lower flow of the frig and eat nitogenious gases and matter aswell as PO4. Small food source animals can live in the frig + propogate free of predation. This type of filtration can be one sump or two but the flow must be lowered.
Once again - Your Main Filtration Comes From The Rockwork In Your Tank - RESEARCH this 1st - then when you think you understand Do it Again!
Thanks for the comments.
Well I guess for the sump I will fill it up with as much LR as possible, should I fill the entire 40g sump with LR? I would like the sump to target the nitros breakdown and I will have the canister filter with media to target the impurities and solids in the tank. I will keep the water flow low on the refugium and have it connect separately into the tank, unless I can find a way to connect it to the sump with low water flow. So I will make my refugium, how? Filled with sand layers, and water at the top with green plants and a light? Any input on creating the refugium would be helpful. I have a orbit 24'' CF I could use over the refuguim separately if it needs special lighting for the growth of plants.
What type of small food source animals should I put int the refug. to live in it and that will help the overall tank quality?
With this being said, sump, refug, and canister filter, you said big WC with SW is not good, what do you suggest and how frequent with this known set up? How many weeks/months and how many gallons?
Well I guess for the sump I will fill it up with as much LR as possible, should I fill the entire 40g sump with LR? I would like the sump to target the nitros breakdown and I will have the canister filter with media to target the impurities and solids in the tank. I will keep the water flow low on the refugium and have it connect separately into the tank, unless I can find a way to connect it to the sump with low water flow. So I will make my refugium, how? Filled with sand layers, and water at the top with green plants and a light? Any input on creating the refugium would be helpful. I have a orbit 24'' CF I could use over the refuguim separately if it needs special lighting for the growth of plants.
What type of small food source animals should I put int the refug. to live in it and that will help the overall tank quality?
With this being said, sump, refug, and canister filter, you said big WC with SW is not good, what do you suggest and how frequent with this known set up? How many weeks/months and how many gallons?
I had a FX5 on my 220 for a while. Great filter as far as canisters go but the tank didn't do well until I removed it!!!! I used the FX5 for 2 years on a 75 keeping a lone puffer in there with no issues. The filter ran flawlessly for over 5 years on salt tanks before I turned the 75 into a reef and removed it.
I would focus on macro algae in the sump more than live rock, it will eat nitrates as said above. Enough live rock can be placed in the tank, be sure to have much current flowing over the rock!!!
I would focus on macro algae in the sump more than live rock, it will eat nitrates as said above. Enough live rock can be placed in the tank, be sure to have much current flowing over the rock!!!
why did your tank not go good until you removed it? I dont like hearing that because I have over 700 dollars of canister filters and I want to use them.. Would be a waste since I bought them and cannot use them.. So is there a way to make them more effective for this SW tank?
So how do I make the macro algae in the sump?
I cannot have a lot of LR in the tank because there will be cat sharks in it, so I want the room for them. I will have 50-75lbs in the tank, only.
So how should I make this refug. and sump?
Do I put LR and algae in the sump, or what kind of algae? I do not understand this macro algae setup for the sump. I like the idea of it eating the nitrates and controlling the water quality.
So between the macro algae in the sump and sand bed refug. that is enough constant filtration for this SW tank?
So how do I make the macro algae in the sump?
I cannot have a lot of LR in the tank because there will be cat sharks in it, so I want the room for them. I will have 50-75lbs in the tank, only.
So how should I make this refug. and sump?
Do I put LR and algae in the sump, or what kind of algae? I do not understand this macro algae setup for the sump. I like the idea of it eating the nitrates and controlling the water quality.
So between the macro algae in the sump and sand bed refug. that is enough constant filtration for this SW tank?
I understand how you feel about the canister filters. I paid nearly $500.00 for mine in 2006 and I hated not to use it. But the fact is without chemical filtration in the canisters you will have nitrate factories. As far as the live rock goes it sounds like you will need a big sump to get the amount you need into your system. I am not sure about the name of my macro algae, I will find out. All I did was throw a clump in the sump with a small incandescent shop light with 100 watt bulb and it took off. You have to prune it at least every month. You are correct Macro algae, live rock and deep live sand bed is not only the best but the easiest way to keep your tank balanced!
A 40 gal sump is too small for multiple sharks. They are very messy eaters that will produce excess waste and alot of uneaten food particles. If it were me I'd be thinkin' 125 gal - 6' long - sump with a very large protien skimmer, 100 lbs of calcified rock, a large external return pump, 2 reactors with a 150 gph pump running 2 cups of GFO to keep intank algae at bay and 2 cups of Carbon "P" 48 hrs a week, and 6 units of chem-prue elite to help control nitrates. I'd use the 40 as a W/C mixing tank - actually this is exactly what I run and my water quality is solid - Nitrates 5ppm or less , PO4 .02 ppm.
The "macro" algae is Cheato for short - Cheatomorpha actual. All macro really means is Large or in Aquarist terms visible as opposed to algae that is too small to see by eye, like Photoplanktons or Photoplex that live in the water feeding planktonic larva - these are "micro" algaes.
SW is expensive - the larger the tank, the larger the budget has to be - and it is Monstrous.
The "macro" algae is Cheato for short - Cheatomorpha actual. All macro really means is Large or in Aquarist terms visible as opposed to algae that is too small to see by eye, like Photoplanktons or Photoplex that live in the water feeding planktonic larva - these are "micro" algaes.
SW is expensive - the larger the tank, the larger the budget has to be - and it is Monstrous.
