Epoxy alternative

[will-kib1]

in my experience the is no difference between potable and marine epoxy its just if you supply aproduct for drinking water applicationit hasto be tested i have built loads of tanks over the years with marine epoxy resin both for fresh water and marine tanks with no problems

 

[Buckdog]

in my experience the is no difference between potable and marine epoxy its just if you supply aproduct for drinking water applicationit hasto be tested i have built loads of tanks over the years with marine epoxy resin both for fresh water and marine tanks with no problems

Yeah, stuff like this probably needs to be a sticky because I see it everywhere. I'd like to see more "glass" pros weigh in on the epoxy/resin/fiberglass issues. Thanx.

 

[Finmore]

as other replies being potable water compliant it should be safe but being rubber based you willhave a problem sticking your viewig window in i dont think silicone would stick fiberglass and epoxy is rely had and smelly work and expensive but if its done right its bullitproof

Yeah, it doesn't sound like this elasto-barrier will bond with silicone. Dr. Joe's suggestion to mount the glass using the elasto-barrier is tempting, but glass is pretty heavy and I doubt rubber paint will be sufficient to hold it over time.

 

[mosthated]

I talked with several people, and from what I gathered epoxy's have a cure time, I heard from 30days to 7days, basically time for the polymers to evaporate. Then it is supposed to be safe..

 

[mcox3]

I saw fiberglass sheets at autozone in 8sq ft sections for 5 bucks a pack.

Would this bond to plywood and would it be aquarium safe?

 

[Buckdog]

For first timers it may be a daunting task, especially if you're doing a big tank.

If you can find a "fiberglass guy" that can walk you through the basics you should be fine. Even reading up on the internet is fine but it's totally different when you get in the garage and do it.

And please dont forget to wear gloves and a respirator - the fumes dont affect some folks but wipes out others.

 

[Buckdog]

I saw fiberglass sheets at autozone in 8sq ft sections for 5 bucks a pack.

Would this bond to plywood and would it be aquarium safe?

Thats expensive because it's marketed for folks doing a small area.
It will bond but you need to wet it with resin- as in marine epoxy or resin.

 

[Dr Joe]

Yeah, it doesn't sound like this elasto-barrier will bond with silicone. Dr. Joe's suggestion to mount the glass using the elasto-barrier is tempting, but glass is pretty heavy and I doubt rubber paint will be sufficient to hold it over time.

The water pressure holds it in.

.

I talked with several people, and from what I gathered epoxy's have a cure time, I heard from 30days to 7days, basically time for the polymers to evaporate. Then it is supposed to be safe..

Polymers don't evaporate (unless your talking about vacuum flash evap.), Solvents evaporate.

.

I saw fiberglass sheets at autozone in 8sq ft sections for 5 bucks a pack.

Would this bond to plywood and would it be aquarium safe?

Sheets or mat? Find a boat repair supplier, it'll be cheaper and what Buckdog said.

Dr Joe

.

 

[mcox3]

Thats expensive because it's marketed for folks doing a small area.
It will bond but you need to wet it with resin- as in marine epoxy or resin.

Is there a recommended resin or are they all safe?

 

[Buckdog]

Is there a recommended resin or are they all safe?

The jury is kind of out in "are they all safe" because there doesnt seem to be a consensus on what is "safe". Most folks here and on other forums have used regular marine epoxy with no apparent problems. What I see is that regular folks like us dont have the resources to test the water for chemicals after the cure-out.

Like I said in post #10, a lot of folks have used the West System successfully. Another I have found but havent heard anything about is Brewcoat and Poolcoat made by www.soundspecialtycoatings.com. I would consider stuff like this at the premium end. I'm still looking into it all but probably your best bet now (and cheapest) is to just use regular marine epoxy/resin.

Any chemists out there to weigh in?