Established filter/new cycle

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
jaws7777 said:
Skim through this. It explains the do's and donts i probably wouldnt dose both though

http://www.fishlore.com/aquariumfishforum/threads/q-a-with-tetra-about-tetra-safestart.58116/
Click to expand...
Good to know! I guess the products are different. Found this http://www.seachem.com/support/forums/forum/general-discussion/1942-cycle-with-prime-and-stability
And it says I'm good dosing simultaneously. I know on cyphos forum there was a big debate about wether bottled BB was snake oil or if it would actually do some good. I guess I'm of the mind set that $6 piece of mind is ok with me. To be completely honest the only reason I bought it was I NEEDED prime, I knew that, and low and behold next bottle over says stability to accomidate new tank syndrome with beneficial bacteria. So why not! But back on subject since prime makes me feel safest for now ill stick with prime and stability since tss wont work with prime. So do you or anyone else have any other ideas on anything I can throw in to get this healthier faster?

Again quick overview. Fry tank, bare bottom. Sponge filter, quart of matrix. 81-82 degrees give or take. Water changes every 48 hours from current tank containing 5ppm nitrates, dosing prime and stability every water change. Feeding is 3 times daily and yes i do try and remove what they dont eat
 
Hello; Maybe I missed why you do not take bb loaded material from the established tank in order to seed the fry tank. The bb will be on many surfaces in an established tank and this is a common way to get bb up to numbers in a new set up.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jaws7777
Like skji47 said that woud be almost instant cycle.

So the only filtration is the sponge ? Where id the matrix (physically) maybe increasing flow will help
 
jaws7777 said:
Like skji47 said that woud be almost instant cycle.

So the only filtration is the sponge ? Where id the matrix (physically) maybe increasing flow will help
Click to expand...
Sponge filter from the main tank. An extra quart of matrix from the main tank, two large canister sponges from the main tank, and some polyfill I bagged up and threw in my sump all went to the qt tank. Right now the only water movement in the fry tank is a powerhead sitting in the matrix because I didnt want a lot of movement with the fish so small.
 
The catch right now being, and maybe someone can help me on this, is that I'm running a trickle filter. I keep no submerged media except for the afformentioned media which was only seeded briefly once I knew id need a fry tank. I assumed (I know.....) that transferring media from an highly aerated area to a submerged environment would kill them off. Was I off and they'll survive?
 
savannah_az said:
Correct, by process I mean "cycle". And yeah, I'm not new to the hobby so I got the cycling thing down but I do appreciate the answer none the less. The tank is a nursery/qt for some fry so heavy feeding is a given right now, another reason the 48 hour wc. Also on a side note, when I do water changes im not using fresh water, I"m using display tank water. I know fresh water would probably be better, but my thought process is my main tank is well cycled, nitrates read at 5ppm at best at 80 degrees. So by filling the qt/nursery with tank water im really only adding in 5ppm nitrates but its a current 80 degrees (fry tank is set for 81-82) and the main tank will get the 30-40 gallons of fresh water and considering this happens every 48 hours plus my normal drip its almost more of just a holding area to keep the water warm so theres no shock to the fry.
Click to expand...

Fresh water is the best water for water changes.....Nitrates is not the only issue with "old" water.....

The water changes should be as much and as often as to reduce the readable ammonia and nitrites to 0 at water change. And if it rises again, you do another water change. If that means 2 back to back 80% water changes every day, then it needs to be done. A routine of doing water changes every 48hrs is meaningless...as far as fish health goes. To you that may mean lots of water changes...To the fish that maybe the difference between living full long lives and or getting riddled with diseases down the line and turn belly up.

The danger in fish being exposed to any amounts of ammonia/nitrites for a period of time is not that you'll outright kill them. The danger will show up weeks, a couple of months later, when you think all is well, tank cycled and fish have survived, then the fish will start getting odd diseases due to severely weakened immune system and exposure to toxins. It has a delayed effect.

How well you're keeping the tank now will determine if those fish you've got in there will live or die in the next 6 months...It's a common misconception that if fish are still alive while fish in cycling, one is doing enough...

Having said that, the prime will help with the spikes in between water changes but only if you dose enough to neutralise the amount of ammonia/nitrites there is in the tank...
 
I think the key word in the opening post is "semi-established sponge".
How long was the sponge in an established aquarium, or sump, a few days, a week, a month?
I have never used any of the quick start products, but thats because I keep filter media floating around in sumps and established tanks for at least a couple months before using it start a new tank, there is always junk floating around around just for that purpose in sumps.
I believe water changes every other, or every day to dilute ammonia buildup is your own real solution, unless the sponge had sat in use long enough.
 
savannah_az said:
I assumed (I know.....) that transferring media from an highly aerated area to a submerged environment would kill them off. Was I off and they'll survive?
Click to expand...

The BB survive both in moist and aquatic environments as long as they don't dry out. They mostly live in moist soil and in water.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
MonsterFishKeepers.com
Top Bottom