fed up,what am i doing wrong
- Thread starter midnight
- Start date
It seems like your bio-filtration isn't doing its job correctly. Your ammonia should be undetectable if it's working properly. I would add a couple of HOB or canister filters that you know are working properly while you figure out what's wrong with your current filter.
to start
today woke up to a perfectly good looking 12" pleco dead in this tank for no reason
its fl,open the windows and poof tanks are warm
the tank is perfectly clear
those pix i didnt have a uv and my lights are sw lights so it clouded up the tank in less then a day
submerged bio is good to
its been talked about on here
the trust does it i think and he likes to stock
also half of the bioballs are not submerged
nitrite and nitrate testers,i gotta buy both?
figured you would remember all this
and good idea with bin but if i cant do weekly wc that would be to much
today woke up to a perfectly good looking 12" pleco dead in this tank for no reason
around 84spexmoneymaker;2028889; said:
its fl,open the windows and poof tanks are warm
firstly,i said those pix are ooooldnavygirl76;2028905; said:
the tank is perfectly clear
those pix i didnt have a uv and my lights are sw lights so it clouded up the tank in less then a day
submerged bio is good to
its been talked about on here
the trust does it i think and he likes to stock
also half of the bioballs are not submerged
nitrite and nitrate testers,i gotta buy both?
lol thanx rallyrallysman;2028937; said:
figured you would remember all this
and good idea with bin but if i cant do weekly wc that would be to much
huh?Tongue33;2028946; said:
i have none and anything big enough to help costs to muchis300zx;2028984; said:
I think your biggest problem is you just need to up your schedule to once a week water changes of 50%...
More water changes will help but it's not the root of the problem. You need to up your biofiltration or you'll lose fish until the existing filtration can handle the waste being put out. Large fish put out lots of waste. Waste = Ammonia. Ammonia is broken down by nitrifying bacteria into nitrites. If your nitrifying bacteria can't keep up with the ammonia, you need more bacteria, bottom line.
The water changes more frequently will help but the fish will still be exposed to ammonia until you change it. Even the slightest hint of ammonia for the shortest duration will kill your fish. Add more filtration ASAP. You got an extra canister filter or HOB laying around that you could hook up? Anything will help. The sooner the better. Stop reading this now and go do it. See you when you get back...........................
The water changes more frequently will help but the fish will still be exposed to ammonia until you change it. Even the slightest hint of ammonia for the shortest duration will kill your fish. Add more filtration ASAP. You got an extra canister filter or HOB laying around that you could hook up? Anything will help. The sooner the better. Stop reading this now and go do it. See you when you get back...........................
midnight;2029338; said:...nitrite and nitrate testers,i gotta buy both?
Spring for the master test kit ($30). Also, look into a swimming pool test kit from Walmart, HD, or Lowes ($5-10). If money is an issue, get the pool kit, nitrite, & nitrate.
The Master Test Kit has ammonia, pH, nitrite, and nitrate.
The pool test kit has chlorine and pH.
The pool test kit is to test your tap water and to test your treated water to verify it is safe to use. You also need to test it for ammonia (chloramines).
Don't do lazy refills like the Python way. That is a first class ticket to dead beneficial bacteria (indicated by your ammonia readings)...among other things.
Don't discount the possibility of bacteria infections. Are there any frayed or decayed fins? Any red streaks on the fish or fins? The salt method for bacteria is a craps shoot but worth a try. Use double the normal amount of salt and lower the temperature. Raising the temperature can kill your fish. Higher temperatures will increase the metabolic rate and reproductive rate exponentially in the bacteria to the point that the fish won't stand a chance. At lower temperatures, the metabolic rate in both the fish and bacteria will be lowered but since the fish are multi-cellular, they can still fight the bacteria. Just don't lower the temp to that what will kill/stress the fish.
I never did see if the 2.2 pH was a typo. Was it? Your pH isn't really that low is it? Maybe I missed it but if it is, that's your problem. You're not using any sort of pH upper or lower products are you? Don't.
You can have the best filters in the world but they don't take the place of water changes. I'm not harping, just hoping you realize how important stepping up your water changes are. I'm way understocked compared to you and I do 4 times the water changes you do.
I really think that's your problem right there (unless you're also using some ph lowering product).
You can have the best filters in the world but they don't take the place of water changes. I'm not harping, just hoping you realize how important stepping up your water changes are. I'm way understocked compared to you and I do 4 times the water changes you do.
I really think that's your problem right there (unless you're also using some ph lowering product).
I thought I must have missed it the first time through, so I just went through the tread again. He didn't mention any pH readings (which is why I recommended the master kit and/or pool kit).
If he did say 2.2, it would have been a typo. That is just too acidic for fish. And Midnight isn't going to own a test kit that can test that low.
If he did say 2.2, it would have been a typo. That is just too acidic for fish. And Midnight isn't going to own a test kit that can test that low.
CHOMPERS;2030363; said:If he did say 2.2, it would have been a typo. That is just too acidic for fish. And Midnight isn't going to own a test kit that can test that low.
You've got a point there.
I don't think any kit tests that low.
