Filterguys replacement

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
yes, it's really as simple as just changing the cartridges. 60 GPD, I'm "changing" 420 gallons of water per week in a 540 gallon tank. I don't know how long my cartridges last because I always change them before the output tests positive for chlorine/chloramine.

But, I started out changing cartridges every 2 months. Now I change cartridges every 5 months...and after reading Tim's post above, I'm gonna wait 6 months to change cartridges. How long cartridges last is gonna depend on how much chlorine they put in the water where you live, though.

Tim -- How do you know when to change cartridges?
 
So I actually have one of their 3 stage chloramine filters. I've been too paranoid to install it though, what are you guys doing to accurately gauge the lifespan of the media without actually getting chlorine/chloramine into the tank? Do you just do a water test for chlorine on a daily/weekly/monthly basis?
 
Is there a way to do a DIY sediment filter? Looking st DYI Joey's vid it looks like to remove chlorine all i need is carbon. What can be used for sediment and everything else?
 
ragin_cajun said:
yes, it's really as simple as just changing the cartridges. 60 GPD, I'm "changing" 420 gallons of water per week in a 540 gallon tank. I don't know how long my cartridges last because I always change them before the output tests positive for chlorine/chloramine.

But, I started out changing cartridges every 2 months. Now I change cartridges every 5 months...and after reading Tim's post above, I'm gonna wait 6 months to change cartridges. How long cartridges last is gonna depend on how much chlorine they put in the water where you live, though.

Tim -- How do you know when to change cartridges?
Click to expand...
I use the cto+ cartridges, filter guys rated those in the carbon drip 40 at 20,000 gallons. So I just wing it, figuring 20,000 ÷ 60gpd, lol. I honestly think it's such a trickle that even if they were worn out it wouldn't be a substantial amount of chlorine. We don't have chloramine in CNY.
 
So I have very hard water in my area and it looks like they use chloramine also. What do you guys think of this setup.

Stage 1 - 1 micron sediment filter
Stage 2 - .6 micron activated carbon (same one used by filter guys)
Stage 3 - catalytic carbon for chloramine (believe its 1 micro)

I was thinking of going more complex but thought this would be a good start. I have seen recommendations of doing a sediment filter of 5 micron and then 1 micron, and then also a 5 micron carbon before the .6 micron. I was just thinking the 5 stages might not be necessary. I do know the biggest concern is that the chloramine filter finishes quickest so you want to do as much filtering ahead of that to prolong the life of that filter.

Thoughts?
 
Filter Guys just like the old Custom RO/DI companies never had their own canisters and cartridges. No real reason to, GE, Philips etc make the actual cartridges. What you are setting up is the front end of an RO/DI system. Those systems (which I use on both salt and fresh water) have the mechanical first stage, then the carbon pre-filter to remove chlorine and chloramine (Destroys RO membranes) then the RO membrane then a DI for polishing. There are variants of this system the most common are Carbon only and carbon-DI. Determining which to use should be based on 1) Tap water quality 2) Tank type and size. The individual parts can be found on Amazon or any number of water purification suppliers. Most suppliers will have a spec sheet giving you and rough idea of how long a filter will last given a certain ppm and flow rate.

The particle filter is separate from the carbon/chloramine. The more particles you remove the longer the carbon will last. The tiny particles will cause clogging on the carbon as well as channeling. They will form damns inside the carbon block and channel water reducing the efficiency.

That .6 micron rating refers to the outer screen on the carbon block. So for ideal operation you'd want a 5 then a 1 micron mechanical. This would be followed up with the carbon or if you really want to go hog wild (and hate money) you could go with a .1 polisher before the carbon.

With the carbon if you want to be extra safe and save money you can have two carbon filter in series. The first one does most of the filtering and the second one catches the little bit that gets through. Then when it's time to change toss the first one move the down stream one up and put the new one at the end. Use the catalytic carbon for both the regular carbon filter will do very little to protect the catalytic carbon (See link).

One question as far as the filter cartridges is 10" or 20". Both are standard sizes for home/hobby systems. Industrial units are a whole different matter.

https://www.wqpmag.com/catalytic-carbon-chloramine-removal
 
MadRussian79 MadRussian79 thanks for the feedback. I actually changed my approach. Decided on 3 stages. First will be sediment and next two will be the BRS universal carbon. I'll monitor and if they deplete quickly I'll end up adding some prefilters.
 
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