Filtration for 30 15Gal tanks.

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Hmm, I usually don't like air powered sponge filters but I do agree about the contamination. This could be controlled by the use of a UV sterilizer, no?

Yes, I think that you overestimated the electrical consumption.

Not at all, go to MarineDepot.com and check out some of the pumps over there. If you wan't over 2000 GPH from one pump, its over 400 watts. Except for this one pump.
 
I'm not claiming to be an expert on any of this stuff, but I work in a LFS with over 90 aquariums, and I see first hand things that do and don't work. They run two sumps to filter those tanks, and a UGF in every tank. Personally, I think the system sucks. Diseases are indeed passed between tanks, although rarely. But, it makes it almost impossible to medicate anything. We can't medicate a tank because if we shut them off the system, they don't get heated water. It makes for a mess with trying to move around a HOT magnum and controlling flow in different tanks.

The other problem we run into at work is fish with different requirements. How do you control salinity, temperature, hardness, pH, etc. . . when all your tanks run off one system? We lose fish all the time specifically because of this.

Personally, I agree with the sponge filter idea. Even if you don't want to do a sponge filter, look into something like a "biotube" or tower of some kind (there's a great little one in the DIY section right now that could be scaled larger). You could hook up something like that to four or five different tanks if you used a little ingenuity. But personally, I wouldn't want to run EVERYTHING off of one big sump. UGFs work great in the store, but they need torn down CONSTANTLY because of the amount of fish waste that goes into them. Sponge-type filters would work a lot better simply because of the ease of cleaning. Pull it out, squeeze it out in a bucket, and pop it back in. You never have fish getting stuck under it, like you do with UGFs.


Also, something that's made a big difference for us recently- we bought a HOT magnum & move it between tanks. Sometimes we get busy, and it makes it really hard to get as much siphoning done as is needed. We also run into the problem that we don't NEED to change as much water as we do every day (total works out to be about a 10-20% water change DAILY), but we can't keep the gravel clean because of the amount of fish in the tanks unless we do a ton of siphoning. The HOT helps a lot- now we put it on one tank, stir up the gravel, and clean another tank manually. When we move to the next tank, we pull the HOT off and move it to another tank. We're cleaning every tank a LOT more often, and losing less fish because of it.
 
Thanks Rnocera, I will considering everything you have said.

I think the UV will help with the spread of diseases. For water parameters, this is something to consider. Smaller multiple sumps with smaller pumps.

I would not wan't to clean 30 sponges filters. To much hassle. I would much rather clean 3-4 smaller sumps which filter tanks of the same parameters.. Maybe use filter socks.
 
I'm currently setting up a similar system, and i'm going to use a bead filter because of space concerns. Water will go through 3- 30" 50 micron filter bags before the bead filter ( 1 filter bag for each of 3 rows). I think the pump you were planning on using would work for these. Take into account maintenance when choosing the mechanical part of the filtration. I have used those pool filter cartridges before and can tell you they are a maintenance headache. I use filter bags because they are so easy to maintain. I keep 2 sets for each system, put the clean ones on, hose off the dirty ones, and they're ready to go for the next change. They come in a variety of lengths and sizes, but i think anything smaller than 50 micron is not necessary.

btw, I am currently running a 50 tank, 2000+ gallon central system in my fishroom.

Aqua Ultraviolet bead filters:
http://garden-pond-filters.com/ultima2-main.htm
 
MonsterFishKeepers.com