filtration on a 1000 gal

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
W

wizzin

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Oct 10, 2006
1,027
0
0
East of Pittsburgh
Started a new thread on this as not to offend anyone.

I've finalized the design for the 1000 gallon, and the glass is supposed to arrive next week. I've got enough room for a large canister filter for a pond rated for 1000 gallons (@ 600gph) and a 48"lx48"wx36"h aged water tank for changes. I know a w/d would help, but i've run out of room! I was considering an overhead w/d on the one end since the entire tank will be "walled" in and you won't see the top of the tank. I just wanted to know what you guys thought the size would need ot be for a w/d on that sized tank considering it will have the pressurized canister filter also. Would a 55gal w/d be enough? I also am a little concerned on circulation, as it's for aros, and I know they don't like swift current.

BTW. I budgeted $2k for the project and the glass was free, so anyone else considering this, keep in mind, it's not cheap!
 
If you plan on using canister filters, you could just hang buckets filled with media above the tank. Have your canister filters output flow out on top of these buckets and drain through holes drilled in the bottom of the buckets. This would also dissapate any harsh water currents. And it would create a rain type effect. Might be nice.

But for a 1000 gallon, you might want to up your flow from 600gph, or include some power heads in your system. I would say to turn over your tank atleast once an hour, most people on here will say you need 4-5 times more than that!
 
Thanks! The only thing about that idea is that it's in a living area of my house, and That volume of water would sound like niagra falls! Also, It would probably take 10 buckets to handle 1000 gph output! Maybe I could split the output. Do 2 bio buckets and jet the rest. I like it.

As for the flowrate, again, thanks. So I'll get a larger canister. It's only $70 more for the 2000 model.
 
Since this is in a living space I think you need to budget some money for a humidity control solution. Whether you have 600 gph or 3000 gph (which is more realistic) you will have a humidity issue which will result in poor air quality. A dehumidier will cost you big $$$ and dump heat into your room. A heat exchanger connected to the outside will cost you big money up front but doesn't use much electricity. I think a cost effective solution would involve a tight fitting cover and somehow letting your filters expell humid air to the outside. Hope this helps. Please keep us updated
 
wizzin;582057;582057 said:
Started a new thread on this as not to offend anyone.

I've finalized the design for the 1000 gallon, and the glass is supposed to arrive next week. I've got enough room for a large canister filter for a pond rated for 1000 gallons (@ 600gph) and a 48"lx48"wx36"h aged water tank for changes. I know a w/d would help, but i've run out of room! I was considering an overhead w/d on the one end since the entire tank will be "walled" in and you won't see the top of the tank. I just wanted to know what you guys thought the size would need ot be for a w/d on that sized tank considering it will have the pressurized canister filter also. Would a 55gal w/d be enough? I also am a little concerned on circulation, as it's for aros, and I know they don't like swift current.

BTW. I budgeted $2k for the project and the glass was free, so anyone else considering this, keep in mind, it's not cheap!
Click to expand...
What canister are you looking at? If you are looking FX5 I'd be looking at 4-5 of them, and Pro3s 3-4. A wet dry is a much cheaper, and better route for a tank that big. Sumpless are great, but for a tank that size you should do at least 100 gallons of bio media. Why are you wanting to do canisters so bad?
 
WyldFya;585153; said:
What canister are you looking at? If you are looking FX5 I'd be looking at 4-5 of them, and Pro3s 3-4. A wet dry is a much cheaper, and better route for a tank that big. Sumpless are great, but for a tank that size you should do at least 100 gallons of bio media. Why are you wanting to do canisters so bad?
Click to expand...

I was going to use a tetra pond 2500. Canister primarily because of footprint, but also because they are contained and fail safe. I could make a w/d failsafe, but I would sleep better with a contained system. I am going to do an overhead w/d out of a 55gal rubbermaid, but it's only suplimental to help in the bio filtration department that the canister lacks. Like you said, a w/d for a 1000 would need to be at least 100 gal, if not more, and that 's a footprint I don't have. The tank is 9'x4'x4' so it's already taking up a huge amount of space. The canisters are high volume in a tiny footprint.
 
Neither filter "removes" ammonia, they convert it. In order to compare, you would have to have the same amount of bio-media, which for canisters would take a lot of canister filters. While canisters can remove a lot of solids, so can a w/d if built right. However, a canister isn't as easy to maintain for mech filtration as a HOB, say a AC110. For canisters to be effective mech filters you should be cleaning them out once a week at least, if you have messy eaters.
Click to expand...

as not to derail 200 gal tank thread any further. Let's continue this here.

Like I said. I understand the nitrogen cycle. I say remove because it's easier than saying "canisters don't convert as much ammonia to nitrites to nitrates as a w/d". Just the same way as plants convert co2 to o2, you could say that plants help remove o2. There aren't many reactions that take place that aren't "converting one thing to another". By converting, you remove one item and replace it with another.

I guess I'm just not as into the w/d's as a lot of people are. As I'm not a fluid engineer, I would always worry that I didn't design it right, or that it's inefficient. The tank will hold 5 silver aros, and I'm sure they'll produce a good volume of waste.
 
wizzin;585163; said:
I was going to use a tetra pond 2500. Canister primarily because of footprint, but also because they are contained and fail safe. I could make a w/d failsafe, but I would sleep better with a contained system. I am going to do an overhead w/d out of a 55gal rubbermaid, but it's only suplimental to help in the bio filtration department that the canister lacks. Like you said, a w/d for a 1000 would need to be at least 100 gal, if not more, and that 's a footprint I don't have. The tank is 9'x4'x4' so it's already taking up a huge amount of space. The canisters are high volume in a tiny footprint.
Click to expand...

Canisters are not able to do a higher volume at a smaller foot print. They are good, but you still should have at bare minimums 50 gallons of bio media IMO for the tank. For the PF2500 you still have to buy a pump. They do not have an inclosed system, they are for ponds. Also, the bio media is EXTREMELY lacking here, and will not be enough for your tank. At minimum stocking of just the aro, this filter could do enough, however you will need to up movement in the tank. My aros get 6 times turnover. You are going to be looking at ~$450 for that filter. Building a W/D under that tank, with that much space would be easy. a 100 will fit no problem. If you built your own, I'd say you'd be looking at 150-300 for the w/d, and it will be able to do the entire tank on its own.
 
Using remove as the key word can get some incorrectly worded info out on the web. This is a big difference. Canister or w/d filters do not convert faster than one another, it is the sheer amount of bio-media, and the environment they are housed in. gallon for gallon of bio-media the w/d is a little faster in normal settings, but certain canisters can also achieve this.

Converting and removing are two different things. To convert, you are changing the structure from one type to another. Removing is what purigen, carbon, and chemical filtration does. Please be careful in your wording, as someone new to the hobby may read this, and think now that a canister can "remove" ammonia. Although you understand, others may read this, and not understand. :thumbsup:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
MonsterFishKeepers.com
Top Bottom