Final sump design

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
DB, you aren't the only one who knows K1 and eggcrate don't mix. :thumbup:
I use 2' length of PVC with duzens of slots from the table saw and attached it to my pump intake. Never had problems since I set it up that way.

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rodger said:
DB, you aren't the only one who knows K1 and eggcrate don't mix. :thumbup:
I use 2' length of PVC with duzens of slots from the table saw and attached it to my pump intake. Never had problems since I set it up that way.

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Click to expand...

Great minds think alike? lol

That is exactly how I've done most of my pump intakes, also heater guards...... Funny thing is the bio chips still find their way into the slits.

I no longer have pumps anywhere near K1 though..... All my reactors are gravity drain now with wayyyy less flow then tank turnover, and the only way I seem to have any luck keeping the strainer media free is now I just divide off the tank with screen covered egg grate then run back up strainers on the drains. This is why I don't understand how people can run this stuff in their sumps with the turnover they have and not have it all just stick to the screen. Only thing I can think of is the turnover isn't as much as they think it is. Makes me want to try some of the off brand stuff, as it seems like the people using it don't have as much trouble with it, but after finally getting happy with the way my K1 is I think I need a vacation from filter tuning.
 
IMO the K1 just over-complicated this set up, I'd skip the baffles and just use ceramic rings or matrix in laundry bags. The you'lll also be able to run a lower water level to make sure there is enough spare space to hold the water that will drain down then the pump shuts off (not sure if the water level in your drawing is to scale, so I thought I'd mention it).
 
David R said:
IMO the K1 just over-complicated this set up, I'd skip the baffles and just use ceramic rings or matrix in laundry bags. The you'lll also be able to run a lower water level to make sure there is enough spare space to hold the water that will drain down then the pump shuts off (not sure if the water level in your drawing is to scale, so I thought I'd mention it).
Click to expand...

X2


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David R said:
IMO the K1 just over-complicated this set up, I'd skip the baffles and just use ceramic rings or matrix in laundry bags. The you'lll also be able to run a lower water level to make sure there is enough spare space to hold the water that will drain down then the pump shuts off (not sure if the water level in your drawing is to scale, so I thought I'd mention it).
Click to expand...

I agree using ceramics would make this super easy, but I like the K1.

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Tank stand will now be 2.5' tall. PVC intake will be 2" from the surface. I'll have 2x 1" PVC pipes. Mesh baffles to hold the K1. Bubble wand surrounding the K1. RIO plus 2500 with ~5 ft head.
 
How much power are you going to burn driving the air pump for the bubble wand? Because it's all money down the drain for no real gain, but if you "like" the K1 enough to justify the cost then go for it.

I'm not sure what the left hand pic in your attached image is showing, but with the sump design you're going to want to raise the height of the baffles nearly to the top of the tank to prevent the K1 going over the edge when the pump switches off, and you'll need to lift the filter socks up so the top stays above the water level with the pump off.
 
David R said:
How much power are you going to burn driving the air pump for the bubble wand? Because it's all money down the drain for no real gain, but if you "like" the K1 enough to justify the cost then go for it.

I'm not sure what the left hand pic in your attached image is showing, but with the sump design you're going to want to raise the height of the baffles nearly to the top of the tank to prevent the K1 going over the edge when the pump switches off, and you'll need to lift the filter socks up so the top stays above the water level with the pump off.
Click to expand...

Okay its fair to say K1s don't have the best bang for your buck then? So just stick with ceramic rings?
 
So you might have heard this already but its just my 2 cents. I used to use PVC overflows like the ones in your drawing. I never wanted to pay to have holes drilled in my tank and i had never done it before or seen anyone do it in person. Well when i got my 125 i finally decided that i needed to drill the glass. So i did. And it was super easy and pretty cheap. i would highly recommend it. Since i drilled the tank i have realized that it is the only way to go. I am never going back to PVC overflows again.
 
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