First DIY Stand 300g 6x3 need verification

[Muni]

Definitely add verticals. Also is this a flat bottom tank where you need to add styrofoam under the tank?

Not needed for glass. Acrylic tanks need fulll bottom support.

Some people use Styrofoam for piece of mind to help prevent any pressure points as most large tanks over 55 have tempered glass bottoms. So if you get a nail head or pebble under then. It will shatter once water is added.

 

[cvar]

A sheet of thick plywood (5/8" or 3/4") covering the whole side and the whole back would act as a fine diagonal brace, and also hide the messy stuff underneath. Use lots of nails/screws. From there, it's a small step to add a handy plywood floor, maybe some front doors, and a paint job to make it awesome. That ups its "WAF". Even your sweetie would approve.

 

[smdsatx]

alright. I have another question(s). I looked at it again today, and noticed that in some of the main support parts, like the middle front and on one of the corners, there is a tinty gap, i can bearly slip an evolope in between the stand and the tank trim, in other words the tank doesn't sit completely by a few hairs. i know it's human error, but is this common when it comes to DIY? what would be too much of a gap? then when the tank is filled, does the trim mold and sit on the stand completely? or does the glass do that as well? to what point is the shifting of the tank bad?

putting a sheet of plywood on the top helps to cushion the shifting right? I know there is some soft thin plywood also.

I do want to be at ease b4 I fill it, the tank is bran new marineland

 

[the-obstacle]

While the little gaps might not be an issue overall I wouldn't be comfortable with them. I'd definitely run a 1/2" styrofoam (polystyrene?) sheet between the tank and the stand and I'd also have a ply wood sheet on the top to spread the load a bit better.

It's a small amount to pay for peace of mind especially as you've shown that the frame is not perfectly level / flat. The ply will give a more even weight distribution over the framing and the foam will compress to remove the high points so you shouldn't be left with any gaps like you're finding now.

 

[sponger_2]

i thought i read somewhere that using 4x4's will warp, over time. thats why most bouble up 2x4's. Could be wrong though.

 

[Muni]

i thought i read somewhere that using 4x4's will warp, over time. thats why most bouble up 2x4's. Could be wrong though.

4x4's are more likely to warp since the wood is thicker so kiln drying can't pull all moisture. Pressure treated is safer.

2x4's are thinner and easier to dry thoroughly preventing warpage as the wood drys or collects moisture over time.


Then its a case by case basis depending on the grain of the wood and moisture content.

 

[Maduro]

That's a very nice frame. My personal opinion is you should take the time to skin it, create doors and stain or paint it. You have a nicely tiled floor and painted wall there. Trust me, your wife will thank you. Its not that tough to do something decent.

 

[Muni]

That's a very nice frame. My personal opinion is you should take the time to skin it, create doors and stain or paint it. You have a nicely tiled floor and painted wall there. Trust me, your wife will thank you. Its not that tough to do something decent.

Indeed. Some 1/4" birch or oak plywood isn't super expensive but looks great. Rub some stain on and you got yourself a looker.

Heres a good example. This is BassinKorea's tank. Which I still love.