First ply tank- from 130 to 200 gals

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
ok so it did not advanced that much lately but with thanksgiving monday, it should go quite fast.

so i drilled the tank for the piping




and since the rubbing of the saw with the fiberglass made such a noisy sound, i finished the job from behind (my girlfriend would tell you that it's an habbit of mine...oops...any kids around here?)




just tried the bulkheads and everythig fits. now, i want to resin the inside of the holes in case of any leaks. since there will be a DIY background, i wont be able to fix it fro the iside of the tank if it leaks so i want the hole to be waterproof and patch from the outside if there's a probleme (but there wont be, of course)

last thing i did yesterday is cutting the mesh for the overflows and aspiration of the UGJ. i didn't find any inox mesh so i took some standard mesh and plan to waterproof it with PVC glue. REALLY not sure about his though. any better ideas? feels like resin wouldn't stick well to metal...
idea of where to find inox mesh (or grid, or wiring netting, dunno i'm a french guy)

anyways, here's one of the overflows

and aspiration for the UGJ



that's it for now!

comments and suggestions are welcomed!
 
Looking good. I would suggest using something other than metal mesh for the intake.
 
i woud probably find an old fish net laying around and cut it up and fit it there maybe in a couple layers
 
gt1009 Build another stand! That way you not only have a stable stand, but you have your 135 free and fully complete!

well, that debate is pretty much over now. i will use the same stand for the 200g and i already have someone to buy the 130 without the stand so that's pretty much wrapped.

Pharaoh: Looking good. I would suggest using something other than metal mesh for the intake.

yes i found this, it's made of plastic! protected the pvc pipe a lil so there wouldn't be pvc glue everywhere on it. also wrapped tape over the mesh it sticks in place, and then gave it another glue layer.







 
ok so the holes are resined. i added ripped fiber so the resin would get thicker and stick better to the upper part of the holes.

question: should i take of the rubber gasket on the bulkheads and silicon them in place instead? cauz i'm about to make the DIY backgroud and these won't be accessible anymore anywayz...

so here are the few pics, for the form cauz there's not much to see! haha









so sunday and monday, background!
 
leg89;3521692; said:
question: should i take of the rubber gasket on the bulkheads and silicon them in place instead? cauz i'm about to make the DIY backgroud and these won't be accessible anymore anywayz...

When I fitted my bulkheads I left the rubber gasket in place, then fitted the bulkheads hand tight, then a little tighter with my wrench. Then I sealed around the entire bulkhead inside the tank as an extra seal and so far so good.
I'd be too nervous to fit a back ground over the bulkheads just incase they leak, but goo dluck with yours.

How about your glass problem, did you decide which way to go yet??
 
Bassinkorea;3521704; said:
How about your glass problem, did you decide which way to go yet??

i'll install it at the very end (after background is done) and will go with the original idea of cutting trough the top brace and doing another that'll be glues and screwed and fiberglassed over it.

can't tighting too much be bad as the rubber ring could kink? (dunno if it's the way to write it...but you know, when the gasket moves because it's too tighten)

because for having worked in swimming pools, i know you must not tight too much a rubber gasket...

anyways, i'm still wondering if a thick silicon joint wouldn't be safer...is silicon supposed to adhere VERY well on fiberglass? like as much as glass itself?
 
i would keep the rubber gasket dont tighten them as far as they will go i believe in that situation you may either one like you said break the gasket or break the plastic head itself....i would do what bass up there did in his tank with silicone
 
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