First Salt Tank!

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Yes I'm planning on waiting at least a week or two before I add a damsel. I think I will use Bio-Spira instead of stability just because its on sale at my LFS.

Stocking wise I'm loving the idea of a Lionfish the more I read about them. So I'm thinking either a Russel's and the Snowflake eel or if possible; a Radiata Lionfish, Snowflake eel, and something else, not sure of what? I'd just like something that is quite active and adds a little punch of colour to the tank.

Would it be at all possible to put in some hardy little corals once the tank is all established? I would love to try something like Zoas maybe? I'm not sure how hardy they are, I would just like something that will give some colour to the tank and to help my rock from looking so.. bland. I know Coraline algae will eventually cover it but then its just a hunk of purple haha What about macro algaes while I'm on the topic, could I put some in? Would I see any benefits from it? Would anyone I'm looking at stocking wise bother it? (I assume not but just wanna make sure) I currently only have two 32W T8 bulbs, I can easily add on 2-6 more with ballasts I have lying around. Lets say I went with 8 T8 bulbs, would corals actually be feasible? or is 8 bulbs overkill for things like Zoas and macro algae?

How long will my LR be safe in the shipping containers? Assuming they ship them with a little water or something, do they usually? I would like to have a few hours to play with the rocks and get a decent aquascape, can I expect to be able to or should I just throw it all in there as soon as possible and then move stuff around once its in the tank?
 
T-8 is not a good light for corals loses most of it's intensity in the 1st month T-5 is better - think 2-3 watts per gal for zoas and nitrates 5 ppm or less in tank flow @ 10x gph the tank volume also gonna need to feed phytoplankton, algaes don't need as intense lighting but do like lower flow volumes and higher levels of nitrates
 
Alright I'll look into returning those two T8's and I'll pick up/order some T5's. Any recommendations on bulbs specifically for Zoas/Polyps? Before I get too deep into this actually, do Zoas/Polyps NEED a clean up crew? Or do they just need something that will eat the algae? In which case, is there a fish that would do that job? I ask fish because I imagine a fair amount of money would be wasted if I bought a real clean up crew to my eel eating them all. Especially things like crabs.. Maybe snails would be alright?

The macro algae will be consuming "most" of my nitrates, not all (obviously) so I'm hoping I can get a little balance going. I'll still be doing weekly/bi-weekly water changes depending on what my water quality is like. Even if my water was to test fine, say 0/0/2? That is an alright number for saltwater, right? I'd still wanna do a WC at least biweekly to replenish my trace minerals. Of course this is all assuming everything goes to plan! haha

When can I look into putting my first Zoas in? I've read you need to wait at least 2-3 months before they can go in. Which is fine with me, it would give me time to establish my macro algae but is that a correct time range? Would Zoas even be alright in a Sea Salt mix or will I need to wait until I can switch to Reef Salt? Would switching salt mixes have any adverse affects on my fish/algae? Is it recommend to do some sort of a mix of each until you get 100% to the new salt, like when you switch your dogs food or something? haha

Also on a side note sorry for constantly bombarding with questions, I have an overactive mind and tend to obsess over the little things.. :nilly: haha
 
Amaroq said:
Alright I'll look into returning those two T8's and I'll pick up/order some T5's. Any recommendations on bulbs specifically for Zoas/Polyps? Before I get too deep into this actually, do Zoas/Polyps NEED a clean up crew? Or do they just need something that will eat the algae? In which case, is there a fish that would do that job? I ask fish because I imagine a fair amount of money would be wasted if I bought a real clean up crew to my eel eating them all. Especially things like crabs.. Maybe snails would be alright?

The macro algae will be consuming "most" of my nitrates, not all (obviously) so I'm hoping I can get a little balance going. I'll still be doing weekly/bi-weekly water changes depending on what my water quality is like. Even if my water was to test fine, say 0/0/2? That is an alright number for saltwater, right? I'd still wanna do a WC at least biweekly to replenish my trace minerals. Of course this is all assuming everything goes to plan! haha

When can I look into putting my first Zoas in? I've read you need to wait at least 2-3 months before they can go in. Which is fine with me, it would give me time to establish my macro algae but is that a correct time range? Would Zoas even be alright in a Sea Salt mix or will I need to wait until I can switch to Reef Salt? Would switching salt mixes have any adverse affects on my fish/algae? Is it recommend to do some sort of a mix of each until you get 100% to the new salt, like when you switch your dogs food or something? haha

Also on a side note sorry for constantly bombarding with questions, I have an overactive mind and tend to obsess over the little things.. :nilly: haha
Click to expand...

You could always go LEDs too


Sent from my iPad using MonsterAquariaNetwork app
 
Lighting and corals, I have no idea. Iv always done fowlr so corals and intense lights were never my main concern. Stock wise, any small lionfish species will cohab fine with a snowflake. Snails and small crabs should be able to hide well enoiugh to survive, although some casualty will be normal.
 
Amaroq said:
LED isn't nearly as cheap as T5's though right? How much would an LED system cost me for this tank? I assume it would be cheaper to DIY it?
Click to expand...

LEDs are more energy efficient and you don't have to replace bulbs, I had a T5 system then I switched to LEDs and my corals and fish look so much more vibrant with color, I use the kessil a150 sky blue and it cost me $225, and it was well worth it.


Sent from my iPad using MonsterAquariaNetwork app
 
I would need at least 3 of those Kessils to cover my tank... I can't afford to spend that much right now with how much I've spent on the setting up the tank. At least with T5's I'd just need to buy the bulbs and with $100 I can have four 54W ATI bulbs over the tank. That is 2.8 watts per gallon, even with how old of a rule that is now I should be able to handle Zoas fine, I mean I'm not trying to grows Clam or nothing! haha

Should I worry about these bright lights blinding my eel or lionfish? I read of a lionfish going blind after someone introduced it to their reef?
 
Amaroq said:
I would need at least 3 of those Kessils to cover my tank... I can't afford to spend that much right now with how much I've spent on the setting up the tank. At least with T5's I'd just need to buy the bulbs and with $100 I can have four 54W ATI bulbs over the tank. That is 2.8 watts per gallon, even with how old of a rule that is now I should be able to handle Zoas fine, I mean I'm not trying to grows Clam or nothing! haha

Should I worry about these bright lights blinding my eel or lionfish? I read of a lionfish going blind after someone introduced it to their reef?
Click to expand...

It would only take 2 but that's still $450, if your not looking to grow hard corals then I think youll be fine with the T5s


Sent from my iPad using MonsterAquariaNetwork app
 
Odds are with predatory fish nitrates will never be 2 ppm more like 20 - as for algae eaters don't worry about it if you don't have an algae issue as algae species are eaten by a-specific hermits and others i.e. lawn mower blenny's don't eat every variety of algae.
Yes zoas can live in standard salt mixes. Using salt mixes high in alk stuff can be detrimental if nothing in the tank is reducing it's totals - instead it will build and ph will climb higher as alk stuff is an acid.
Lastly w/c's help replenish h20, trace, and dissolved sodium as well as numerous alk materials to help stabilize ph. It also manually removes nitrates phosphates, tds, and co2 in small amounts. Obviously the larger the w/c the larger amounts removed however there is a point where removing too much water screws with the chemisrtry.

I would strongly recommend the frequent use of testing kits to guide you thru the initial cycle process and beyond
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
MonsterFishKeepers.com
Top Bottom