Agreed. It would take a couple of days for ammonia to rise that much
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Fish dead in less than a day?
- Thread starter Aether
- Start date
Agreed. It would take a couple of days for ammonia to rise that much
Sent from my iPhone using MonsterAquariaNetwork app
That's okay...aquarium salt is mostly used as a medication which you could do without at this point.Mollies on the other hand can live in brackish water.
Alright.... it's morning now, and neither fish made it through the night.
Gonna try for attempt #2.
Several people expressed concern about my tank cycling. I don't think it's what killed them, but I'll make sure to do it right this time.
Going to follow these instructions:
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?207575-Fishless-Cycling
I'm trying to think of what else I might be lacking. Does the HOB filter oxygenate the water enough? Or do I need to get one of those bubble things?
That's all I can think of for now...
Gonna try for attempt #2.
Several people expressed concern about my tank cycling. I don't think it's what killed them, but I'll make sure to do it right this time.
Going to follow these instructions:
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?207575-Fishless-Cycling
I'm trying to think of what else I might be lacking. Does the HOB filter oxygenate the water enough? Or do I need to get one of those bubble things?
That's all I can think of for now...
Follow that link and you will not have another death! Just add fish a few at a time after ammonia and nitrite show 0. Also I think an HOB should provide plenty enough surface agitation for that tank. Good luck and sorry for your losses!. Try ordering online here from one of these vendors. this site has been a lifesaver for me and my Cichla. I did not cycle my tank either & I plopped 4 peacock bass in a 50 gallon & there large healthy and pellet trained about to move to a large tank. Good luck!
Hello; While I agree that to cycle a brand new tank without any media from an established tank to quicken the process can take a few weeks, it seems unlikely that the cycle issue would kill only two fish over night. Pehaps there was some sort of contamination of the tank or the equipment that led to the fish deaths?
I rinse a new tank well before setting it up. I actually test fill all tanks for some time before setting up with fish. This way I know if a tank leaks and at the same time have it where I can give it and the filters and such a good rinsing. Stuff makes it's way into tanks as they sit about.
I will add a copy of an old post I wrote a while back about a method I use to clean both new and used tanks.
Hello; I like to find a place outside if the weather is decent. (Usually the tailgate of my pickup for smaller tanks) I fill a tank up and let it stand with water for a while, this should soften up the stuff that can be softened. Rinse out the easy gunk.
A tank full of water is heavy and bulky, you may want to siphon out the rinse water to avoid potentially breaking of the glass from extra handling. I like to use a long clear plastic siphon hose of 1/2 to 5/8 inch diameter. After siphoning as much water from the tank while it is sitting flat, I raise up one end of the tank and with care place a piece of 2x4 under that end (the board needs to be longer than the tank is wide) (tall edge up to give 3 1/2 inches rise.) This sends the water to the other end where the siphon can pick it up while you spray water in the other side with a hose and flush the remaining loose junk.
You will likely have to start the siphon several times in water that you do not want in your mouth ( especially as this was a lizard tank - salmonella). This is why I use a clear plastic siphon that is plenty long so as to see where the water is. You can also often start a siphon by completely submerging a hose and then holding a thumb over one end and avoid the potential for water in the mouth.
I usually give a tank a good cleaning with a paste made from ordinary table salt (Without iodine) and a soft sponge. (Do not use a sponge or cloth that has been used with soap or chemicals.)(I have buckets and sponges that are used only for my tanks.)The salt paste does not scratch glass (be sure the sponge or cloth used to apply the paste with is not coarse enough to scratch the glass on its own and watch for bits of gravel that seem to jump into the salt paste.) The salt paste does a fair job at removing the deposits from the surface of the glass with a little rubbing. (Letting the salt paste dry to a haze should desiccate most critters if you want to somewhat disinfect a diseased tank.) I have used such a salt paste many times over the decades. Be sure to use NON-IODIZED table salt that can be found in grocery stores. The salt is cheap and rinses away well.
For stubborn mineral deposits, a razor blade in a holder that gives a firm grip is useful. Use a shallow the angle on the blade and keep an eye on the corners of the blade. The corners sometimes get bent and will scratch a thin line. A bit of vinegar can also help soften mineral deposits.
Rinse the salt paste out.
After I get a tank clean and it is still outside is a good time to fill it up and let it sit for several hours to a day or so. This gives leaks a chance to show up.
Another thing that has saved the bottom of an all glass tank is to be very careful in the handling of a tank. Be sure any place you plan to set the tank down has no raised bits that can contact the bottom of the glass. I often cut a sheet of plywood to place a tank on when moving and also under the tank when on the stand. Watch going thru doors for things like door knobs and such.
I also like to glue to the outside corners of a tank some clear plastic corner protectors. I have found such protectors that are made to protect the outside corners of wallpaper applications. They are often a bit wide so I trim them down and silicone them in place on the outside of an all glass tank. This helps prevent chips on a glass edge.
Good luck
I rinse a new tank well before setting it up. I actually test fill all tanks for some time before setting up with fish. This way I know if a tank leaks and at the same time have it where I can give it and the filters and such a good rinsing. Stuff makes it's way into tanks as they sit about.
I will add a copy of an old post I wrote a while back about a method I use to clean both new and used tanks.
Hello; I like to find a place outside if the weather is decent. (Usually the tailgate of my pickup for smaller tanks) I fill a tank up and let it stand with water for a while, this should soften up the stuff that can be softened. Rinse out the easy gunk.
A tank full of water is heavy and bulky, you may want to siphon out the rinse water to avoid potentially breaking of the glass from extra handling. I like to use a long clear plastic siphon hose of 1/2 to 5/8 inch diameter. After siphoning as much water from the tank while it is sitting flat, I raise up one end of the tank and with care place a piece of 2x4 under that end (the board needs to be longer than the tank is wide) (tall edge up to give 3 1/2 inches rise.) This sends the water to the other end where the siphon can pick it up while you spray water in the other side with a hose and flush the remaining loose junk.
You will likely have to start the siphon several times in water that you do not want in your mouth ( especially as this was a lizard tank - salmonella). This is why I use a clear plastic siphon that is plenty long so as to see where the water is. You can also often start a siphon by completely submerging a hose and then holding a thumb over one end and avoid the potential for water in the mouth.
I usually give a tank a good cleaning with a paste made from ordinary table salt (Without iodine) and a soft sponge. (Do not use a sponge or cloth that has been used with soap or chemicals.)(I have buckets and sponges that are used only for my tanks.)The salt paste does not scratch glass (be sure the sponge or cloth used to apply the paste with is not coarse enough to scratch the glass on its own and watch for bits of gravel that seem to jump into the salt paste.) The salt paste does a fair job at removing the deposits from the surface of the glass with a little rubbing. (Letting the salt paste dry to a haze should desiccate most critters if you want to somewhat disinfect a diseased tank.) I have used such a salt paste many times over the decades. Be sure to use NON-IODIZED table salt that can be found in grocery stores. The salt is cheap and rinses away well.
For stubborn mineral deposits, a razor blade in a holder that gives a firm grip is useful. Use a shallow the angle on the blade and keep an eye on the corners of the blade. The corners sometimes get bent and will scratch a thin line. A bit of vinegar can also help soften mineral deposits.
Rinse the salt paste out.
After I get a tank clean and it is still outside is a good time to fill it up and let it sit for several hours to a day or so. This gives leaks a chance to show up.
Another thing that has saved the bottom of an all glass tank is to be very careful in the handling of a tank. Be sure any place you plan to set the tank down has no raised bits that can contact the bottom of the glass. I often cut a sheet of plywood to place a tank on when moving and also under the tank when on the stand. Watch going thru doors for things like door knobs and such.
I also like to glue to the outside corners of a tank some clear plastic corner protectors. I have found such protectors that are made to protect the outside corners of wallpaper applications. They are often a bit wide so I trim them down and silicone them in place on the outside of an all glass tank. This helps prevent chips on a glass edge.
Good luck
