Fish Room and Indoor Pond 24' by 7' by 4'

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I dunno if I would be working underneath while a guy with a FULL barrow of CONCRETE is wheeled over my head along a long plank propped up by a few loose wooden cross beams. I dunno if I would even wheel the barrow down the plank!

Are you going to round off the corners and sidewall-bottoms to prevent deadspots, fish getting jammed and detritus accumulating?
 
hamato_yoshii;1742586; said:
I can't get over how cool this project is! :headbang2

thanks.

Kevaldo;1742854; said:
your workers sure work hard

yes they sure do. see note below

fishdance;1742897; said:
I dunno if I would be working underneath while a guy with a FULL barrow of CONCRETE is wheeled over my head along a long plank propped up by a few loose wooden cross beams. I dunno if I would even wheel the barrow down the plank!

Are you going to round off the corners and sidewall-bottoms to prevent deadspots, fish getting jammed and detritus accumulating?

The workers are really quite ok with the supervisor giving and making a number of instructions including safety etc.. however safe practices can always be improved :( but in this case i think they do not practice that very well. So far no incidents and let pray that it stay that way. Will have to talk to the main contactor about it.

On another note regarding the corners, sidewalls and bottom, have elected to leave them in the usual fashion meaning appox 90 degree angles rather than the type we use in the fish farm which have the corners angles about 45 degrees to the center channel. At the same time the center channel is also sloped down to the exit drain holes.

The thinking is that this is also for some research on the arowanas to see whether we could have a success in breeding them by using a few different methods. (R&D at the moment)

The pond floor will be left quite flat with just 4" slope from the side facing the front of the fishroom to the exit drain pipe hole.

Basic circulation will be probably to use the incoming filtered water over a sheet water fall at the front end combined with a surface pump over the exit pipe side to move the circulation around. It' s a thought at the moment as i am still thinking over the process. some changes may be expected after evaluating a few more ideas.

cheers.
 
Just some further thoughts on the Pond Shape b4 continuing.
Have opted to use the simple slope one as i was a bit constrained on this aspect as the main idea for the pond was to use it as a R&D for various simple things to try out mainly on the arowana, pacu as well as the filter system.

Would prefer to use the third type with both sides of the pond floor inclined at about 30-45 degrees towards the center channel ( which is like a drain in the middle of the pond and this slopes down to the drain pipe)

However due to the few type of things i am trying out this would limit my options. The flatter pond base would allow me to repartition the pond temporarily for a few months at a time to test some ideas and so on.

So currently i have to stick with the gentle slope and make do with a bit of mechanical pumps to clear the fish wastes and dirt. This would be difficult to say the least. BTW thank to fishdance for the question on this. It really helps to make one think thru the design and verify that it is really what i would need to really enjoy this big bath tub for the fishes. LOL

Pond Cross Section 3-Types.jpg

Pond Water Circulation idea.jpg
 
On the question of safety. This is roughly what the contractor seem to have done.

On a site such as this there are a number of safety issues relating to

1. Sharp objects such as Nails left from Jigs. Sharp RC Steel Rods sticking from the ground. Removed material from the renovation such as cracked tiles (BTW i accidentally got cut from such a Broken tile just recently from another work site which i was taking a look at - not this one and no the injury was not serious just a puncture wound with some bleeding)

2. Falling Debris - such as Broken Bricks, any loose tools left on the ledges etc. and as memtioned on one of the pictures. Loose Scafolding leading to simple accidents.

3. Electrical Machinery - Power Tools, Electrical Shorts etc ...
Especially when the work area is wet or flooded after the rain. This can be rather nasty and outright dangerous.

There are various sessions which the supervisor briefs them on each day though i missed most of them. The summary points is as follows.

This reno is just a single story extension - so no hard hat (Construction Helmet) was mandated. I asked why not. You would not like the answer. :irked:

On Sharp objects - Clean Work Place Mandatory. B4 start and end of day
they spend about 30mins to clean up the place. Nails etc on used jigs are manually removed after the cement have setted.

On Electrical - Gloves and Rubber Boots and the usual precaution applies for power tool usage - hammer drills, rotary cutters and saws.

Hopefully that should keep the workplace and every worker accident free.

Heres a pic of how they put the odds and ends in one place at the work site

Note on Pic 3 the Area for the Dirt and the cleared Work Place
Pic 4 Cleaning up is just with the simple broom, this one in the kitchen area.

Next coming pics of the completed pond Jigs ready for concreting

IMG_4294 Fish Room Cleaning up at end of day Safety.JPG

IMG_4306 Fish Pond Rubbish and Debries.JPG

IMG_4307 Fish Pond Rubbish and Clean area.JPG

IMG_4807 Fish Pond Rubbish Cleaning up.JPG
 
The Wooden Jigs and Wires Mesh for the Pond getting prepared and setup.

Pic1 They use 1/2 inch ply wood for the jig wall. 1" by 2" wood are nailed on to stiffen the board. These are then put in place and then 2" by 4" are use to set up the boards in the correct position.

Pic 2 The RC Wire Mesh 6mm thickness which are used for the pond base as well as the pond wall.

Pic 3. This is how the Jig looks like partially set up with all the wooden supports in place.

IMG_4310 Fish Room Preparing the Boards for the Pond Jig.JPG

IMG_4311 Fish Room Wires Mesh for the Pond Wall and Base.JPG

IMG_4353 Pond Wall Jig Filter End.JPG
 
The Completed Pond Jig. You can see the Shape already from this. At the moment it will only be about 3.5 ft high. The final top up will be with sand bricks later.

Lots of wooden beams to strengthen the different sides of the boards as the poured cement is expected to be rather heavy.

Pic 2 Putting the Cross Support Beams in Place with some useful nailing. According to the workers this will prevent the boards from buckling inwards later. The shorter pieces across the boards is to ensure that the RC wall is consistent in width. The angled wood bars to the board and down to the ground is to hold the jig in shape. Cross beams on the pond base is for the same function to strengthen and hold the jig shape for the cement mix.

In Pic 3 you can also see the RC Beam going up for the wall of the fish room fixed in place.

IMG_4356 Pond Wall Jigs 3 Setting up.JPG

IMG_4357 Pond Wall Jig 4.JPG

IMG_4359 Pond Wall Jig 3.JPG
 
More pics of the action on the Pond Jig

Pic 1 The Completed Pond Jig

Pic 2 Finishing up after some complaints about the workmanship by the chief.

Pic 3 Show where the jig is in relation to the site.
Blue Box on the left show the Front side of the Fish Room Wall.
Blue Box in the Center shows the Pond Jig
Blue Box on the Right shows the sand brick Exterior Wall.

More updates when the cement work is done.

Till then Cheers again.

IMG_4361 Pond wall Jig Build1.JPG

IMG_4362 Pond Wall 1.JPG

IMG_4363 Fish Room Front Wall Pond and external Wall.JPG
 
MonsterFishKeepers.com