Fish room dehumidifiers and heating.

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CoryWM

Candiru
MFK Member
Jan 13, 2008
368
11
48
Everett, Washington
www.tankgeek.com
I currently run a dehumidifier in my fish room. It's an older one probably from the 80s. An old Kenmore brown one. It uses 7.4 amps. I have it running 24/7 in my fish room.

7.4 x 120 volts = 888 watts per hour.
(((888 watts x 24hours)x30 days)/1000)x0.8 cents =$51.15 a month to run.

Now, I like the idea of keeping the humidity low in the room, as I rent. This is my garage so it gets cold without it. It seems to produce a fair amount of heat.

I currently have roughly 25 tanks in the garage. From 10gs, to 300g. The current dehumidifier does not put out enough heat to keep the water temp stable.

Goals of this post:
1. Should I buy a newer Dehumidifier? I've heard that watts pretty much transfer to heating watts. Basically, you can't really break the rules with electric heating, no electric heater that uses 100 watts, is gonna put out 500 watts of heat. Have you found your dehumidifier to put out a lot of heat? Maybe There are models out there, that produce just as much heat, but only half the wattage?

2. The great heaters in tanks vs heat the whole room debate. I'm having troubles finding out how long heaters would stay on in a setup like this. A 100 watt heater is unlikely to stay on 24/7. A space heater, uses generally 1500 watts. That'd be 15 tanks with 100 watt heaters on 24/7.

3. Humidity. It happens when the air temp is different than the water temp correct? If I was to heat the room, not the tanks, would I need a dehumidifier.

4. Lower my monthly power bills. Right now it's roughly $150-$175 A month. Up from $50 a month before I had fish tanks.

P.S. Does anyone know if a shop light that holds two lights, when used with only 1 light will only consume the wattage of that bulb? or does the ballast consume the same amount regardless of bulbs? And yes, my fixture will run with only 1 bulb installed.
 
For reference up until a couple of yeas ago when I moved, I had a garage fishroom with around 1200 gallons of fish tanks in it. It was heated with dehumidifier/s... My father is a retired Union Electrician after 40 some odd years working & my uncle has been an electrical engineer for about as long. I've consulted both of them extensively regarding my animal projects...

CoryWM;4105077; said:
1. Should I buy a newer Dehumidifier? I've heard that watts pretty much transfer to heating watts. Basically, you can't really break the rules with electric heating, no electric heater that uses 100 watts, is gonna put out 500 watts of heat. Have you found your dehumidifier to put out a lot of heat? Maybe There are models out there, that produce just as much heat, but only half the wattage?

A newer dehumidifier is likely going to be more efficient at removing humidity from the wair than your old one... but I have no clue if it would be enough of a difference to justify the investment...

When talking eletric heaters, you are right a watt is a watt is a watt is a watt. Ceramic heat elements and electric elements have a few differences but they are subtle/minor.

A dehumidifer definitely does create heat, but a 500W dehumidifier will create less heat than a 500W space heater. How much less I am not completely sure...


CoryWM;4105077; said:
2. The great heaters in tanks vs heat the whole room debate. I'm having troubles finding out how long heaters would stay on in a setup like this. A 100 watt heater is unlikely to stay on 24/7. A space heater, uses generally 1500 watts. That'd be 15 tanks with 100 watt heaters on 24/7.

It depends on a few things, primarily the difference in temperatures between the water and the air, and how well the aquariums are sealed/insulated.

Generally speaking, it is much more efficient to heat the air but if the room isn't well insulated this may not hold true. When I put together my garage fishroom I chose to insulate the garage walls.


CoryWM;4105077; said:
3. Humidity. It happens when the air temp is different than the water temp correct? If I was to heat the room, not the tanks, would I need a dehumidifier.

Yes...

Humidity/evaporation will happen even if the tanks are a bit cooler than the air. It's basically unavoidable...

Excessive humidity can bring about a whole list of problems. From mold spores that can compromise your health to rotting wood and coroding metal. If the humidity is over 50~60% I would consider them a necessity and without sealing the top of all your tanks the room will definitely be over 60% without one...


CoryWM;4105077; said:
4. Lower my monthly power bills. Right now it's roughly $150-$175 A month. Up from $50 a month before I had fish tanks.

I definitely had electrical consumption in mind as I put my fishroom together. But heat and dehumidity was not the place to save. While my 'show tanks' in the house have always had whatever filtration necessary to keep them pretty, the fishroom's filtration was only good enough to keep the water parameters first class.

I was able to filter a 75 gal and two 50 gal tanks with only one 500 gph (30W) pump...

Water is pumped up from the 75 gal (bottom) to the 50 gal (top), water goes out an overflow and into the next 50 gal (middle), then flows out an overflow and into the 75 gal (bottom).

IMG_0537.jpg



CoryWM;4105077; said:
P.S. Does anyone know if a shop light that holds two lights, when used with only 1 light will only consume the wattage of that bulb? or does the ballast consume the same amount regardless of bulbs? And yes, my fixture will run with only 1 bulb installed.

The ballast consumes very little wattage/power, but some. So using only one bulb will definitely use less wattage/power than using both bulbs...

A double bulb fixture with two 40W bulbs in it will actually use around 88W. 40W for each bulb and around 8W for the ballast. With one bulb it will use arond 48W...

A single watt ballast will use less power/wattage than a double bulb ballast, probably by aronud 2W. So using single bulb fixtures with a single bulb will use around 2W less than a double bulb fixture with one bulb. But at only a 2W reduction it would take around 40 years before the savings paid for the new fixture...


By the way, I don't like you... you are making me miss my fishroom ;)
 
My fishroom is very well insulated.Its heated primarily by the dehumidifyer and lighting.Its in an unheated basement.I only need a spce heater when its in the single digits outside,then I run it at night for the lower rates.
 
Thanks Cory... cause hearign about your fishroom didn't make me jealous enuogh... now I have to see it too ;)


I love the idea of steping the tanks back as you go up. It allows less verticle space between the tanks but takes up more floor space. I just didn't have the floor space to give up so I surrendered the verticle space. If space allows I definitely prefer you approach...

For electical efficiency, air driven filters are the way to go. I'm assuming you are using a single large air pump. Which one did you choose? I bought one but ended up moving before I had a chance to set it up.

What's going to go in the acrylic frag tank (pic #3)?
 
I'm not sure what are going in those yet. I picked them up off a betta breeder. They're 10g tanks, with 2 dividers in them. I'm mainly wanting to breed livebearers as I find them most enjoyable to me. I also breed cichlids etc. But honestly I do those to make a profit :P

As for air pump I went with .
http://www.kensfish.com/airpumps/AV-50_air_pump.jpg

I'm kinda wishing I had went bigger. However, I think it's just a setup thing at the moment. I have an 18 outlet manifold on it. Not even using all of them, and adjusting the flows can be annoying each time I add an outlet. I'm considering investing in some gang valves, that can hang on the tank. Anyone use these for better flow control?

I'm thinking then at the manifold, at the air pump. I can have it wide open. And Adjust air appropriately at the tank. However thinking about it now. I'll still likely have the same problem. Any tips on flow control throughout a fish room? I had no problems till i started hitting 10+ sponge filters.
 
Depending on the outside humidity, it might be cheaper to just ventilate with fans. Fans use a lot less energy than A/C (which is basically what a humidifier is). You'll have to heat your tanks directly though but it might be a lot more efficient.
 
Air to Air Exchangers are also an option. This will be mroe costly at the point of installation but can pay for itself in the long run.

I personally didn't go this route, but I knew a couple others in our local fish club that did. From what I've heard it's not something you want to buy the cheap version of...
 
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