Fish room dehumidifiers and heating.

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
The air to air exchanger was a possible solution to the heat/humidity concern... From what I understand they push air from the room outside... suck air from outside pulling it in... but they 'exchange' the heat from the room air and put it in the outside air...


Many years ago I did use gang valves on small/medium air systems... Every time you add an air powered filter you will likely have to adjust each valve, but the adjustment is quick and easy.

After a lot of research, I did come to accept that a PVC manifold system aroudn the entire room is the way to go. I planned/designed a loop around the room with T's in the loop that branched off with hoses taped into the brances... This in theory supported equal pressure available at each outlet.

For the hobbyist on the cheap (most of us) you can tie a loose knot in the airline and if it is too strong tighten up the knot just a bit. That's a lot cheaper than buying 20 valves.
 
Love both of your fish rooms.
 
nc_nutcase;4105672; said:
The air to air exchanger was a possible solution to the heat/humidity concern... From what I understand they push air from the room outside... suck air from outside pulling it in... but they 'exchange' the heat from the room air and put it in the outside air...


Many years ago I did use gang valves on small/medium air systems... Every time you add an air powered filter you will likely have to adjust each valve, but the adjustment is quick and easy.

After a lot of research, I did come to accept that a PVC manifold system aroudn the entire room is the way to go. I planned/designed a loop around the room with T's in the loop that branched off with hoses taped into the brances... This in theory supported equal pressure available at each outlet.

For the hobbyist on the cheap (most of us) you can tie a loose knot in the airline and if it is too strong tighten up the knot just a bit. That's a lot cheaper than buying 20 valves.

I've been searching around google, and everyone says to do the pvc manifold. I'm having a hard time understand why that helps. I mean everyone says to do it. However, howcome it is so much more beneficial to do it that wa, than do it from a much smaller manifold right off the pump?

Thanks,
Cory
 
If you plan to run a heater at all, and want to conserve energy, check this out, You should be able to use just about any electrical heater this way, be sure to size relays/wiring properly is all. http://www.instructables.com/id/Space-heater-controlled-by-digital-thermostat/

You could also go with that same idea from the link above, except use a 'dehumidistat' for your humidifier, you would gain better control over the humidity. http://www.nextag.com/Honeywell-Manual-Humidistat-Control-645039282/prices-html

You could also use that same design to build DIY aquarium heater controllers too, just move the resistor sensor(temp sensor) from inside the thermostat to some sort of epoxy-casing, then partially submerge it. Set temp and plug in heaters.... It could work. I've been pondering this since aquarium heater controllers are expensive. If high quality thermostat, relays, transformers, resistors etc are used, it shouldn't be a problem.

Just thinking out loud....
 
CoryWM;4105845; said:
I've been searching around google, and everyone says to do the pvc manifold. I'm having a hard time understand why that helps. I mean everyone says to do it. However, howcome it is so much more beneficial to do it that wa, than do it from a much smaller manifold right off the pump?

Thanks,
Cory

It's all about sustaining equal pressure available at each outlet... and doing so in a neat organized manner...

If you ran a single PVC line (not loop) and had outlets tapped straight into it, the outlets closest to the pump would have a higher pressure available...

If you ran a PVC loop and tapoed outlets straight into the loop, the outlets to either side of the pump would have a higher pressure available...

But if you ran a loop with branches T'ing off of the loop... theoretically the loops will sustain a given pressure and the branches will allow equal distribution of the loss of pressure within the overall system.

I say theoretically because it will not work perfect or create perfect distribution of loss, but it will be much much better than a straight line or a loop directly tapped...
 
The most efficient fish room I help put together has its own furnace. It may sound nuts, but it works. My friend has roughly 80 tanks, mostly 75gal+, that he heats by keeping the room temp up.
We installed a separate gas furnace in the room and his gas bill went up roughly $20 during the winter. The electric dropped $100 plus since he wasn't using all those submersible heaters. His fish room was in the basement so as the heat rises his main furnace turned on less.
We also installed bathroom fans in his fish room and hooked them up to a dehumidistat. That actually kept the humidity down better since he was able to install multiple fans through out the room. Those also use a few watts to run, so his electric bill went down $35 more dollars a month since he wasn't running a dehumidifier.
 
That's interesting. Usually, heating and cooling also dehumidify so using a heater (furnace) as a dehumidifier might be better than using a dehumidifier as a heater.
 
nc_nutcase;4106240; said:
It's all about sustaining equal pressure available at each outlet... and doing so in a neat organized manner...

If you ran a single PVC line (not loop) and had outlets tapped straight into it, the outlets closest to the pump would have a higher pressure available...

If you ran a PVC loop and tapoed outlets straight into the loop, the outlets to either side of the pump would have a higher pressure available...

But if you ran a loop with branches T'ing off of the loop... theoretically the loops will sustain a given pressure and the branches will allow equal distribution of the loss of pressure within the overall system.

I say theoretically because it will not work perfect or create perfect distribution of loss, but it will be much much better than a straight line or a loop directly tapped...
If the diameter of the loop piping is large enough you shouldn't need the t'ing either

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