Fishroom Electrical Question

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
mdb_talon;2687119; said:
The circuit will be in series. Single GFCI outlets will knock out the entire circuit that is after that outlet. So this would only work if the outlet that trips is after the other outlets in the circuit. Personally I would replace the first outlet in the circuit with GFCI to make sure everything is protected (assuming it is not already; in many places GFCI is required for basements by local codes). Having the power go out on the whole tank is much better than death. In my opinion anyway.

I think Jgray is speaking of the type you just plug into existing outlets. You can however replace the outlets with GFCIs and not protect any outlets down-line, there are options for installing.

mdb_talon;2687119; said:
As for the breaker I think you will be fine if you never plan to plug anything else in or add a light or anything. Make sure you never try to plug in a vaccum that will not go well.

This is good advise

mdb_talon;2687119; said:
I would replace the 15 amp breaker with a 20 amp breaker to give you more of a buffer there in case you do need to plug in additional things.

This is not good advise. There are reasons why this is only a 15amp breaker, many include the potential from starting a fire,
 
Bderick67;2687226; said:
Adding GFCI's in any configuration will NOT protect from overload or increase you potential power.

No, but it can save your life and makes a whole lot of sense in room with a lot of water......
 
Bderick67;2687252; said:
This is not good advise. There are reasons why this is only a 15amp breaker, many include the potential from starting a fire,

How do you know there are reasons? The reason for having 15 is usually because they are cheaper than 20 amp and a 20 amp is not usually needed. Of course I could have put a lot of disclaimers certainly there are things that need to be checked before doing any electrical work (in this case one of the most important would be if the house only uses 14 gauge wire then you would not want 20 amp). If someone was going to do this I made what I think is a fair assumption they would know what to check or have someone qualified do it.
 
Bderick67;2687252; said:
I think Jgray is speaking of the type you just plug into existing outlets. You can however replace the outlets with GFCIs and not protect any outlets down-line, there are options for installing.

If you wire it to not protect downline circuits then you will not be up to code in any local I have worked.
 
mdb_talon;2687295; said:
How do you know there are reasons? The reason for having 15 is usually because they are cheaper than 20 amp and a 20 amp is not usually needed. Of course I could have put a lot of disclaimers certainly there are things that need to be checked before doing any electrical work (in this case one of the most important would be if the house only uses 14 gauge wire then you would not want 20 amp). If someone was going to do this I made what I think is a fair assumption they would know what to check or have someone qualified do it.

How do I know the reasons? Well considering the past 20 plus years this has been my career, for me most are just common sense. 15amp breaker cost no less then 20 amp breakers, what cost less is the wiring that was used. Yes it could be 12 guage wire, it could also be alunimum wire, either way chances are that the size breaker was install according to wire type and size. So giving advice of upsizing a breaker is a bad idea, unless explain the particulars in the first place.

I wonder how many buildings have burnt, lives been lost on "fair" assumptions?
 
Changing breaker size from 15 to 20 is not wise advice if the wire size is not known... the breaker is there to protect wire from excess loads. Verify wire size first... if #14 wire... LEAVE breaker at 15 amps. If wire size is 12 gauge... 20 amp breaker is ok.

For what it is worth... my "fish room" contains a 90gal w/ (2) 250 watt heaters, (2) AC110 filters, XP3 canister filter, double 40 watt light strip - 55gal w/ 40w single strip light, 200w heater, (2) AC70 filters, Magnum 350 - 55gal w/ 40 watt single strip light, 200watt heater, AC70 and Emperor 280 filters - 20gal w/ penguin 150 and Magnum 220 filters, 100 watt heater - 10gal w/ 15 watt light strip, AC 20 filter, 50 watt heater - w/ also an air pump and Little Giant 3MD pump for water changes..... all in an unheated room in my basement, and yes the heaters are used (it's -19f w/ wind chill right now).... on one 20 amp electrical circuit with a food freezer!
:)

So if your looking for some "moral" support hope this has helped ease any worries a little! :D
 
mdb_talon;2687312; said:
If you wire it to not protect downline circuits then you will not be up to code in any local I have worked.

What locals have you worked? The National Electrical Code(NEC) does not state that outlets wired down-line from a GFCI breaker have to be GFCI protected. The NEC requires outlets to be GFCI protect per their location.

A smart contractor will wire a house as to reduce the amount of GFCI outlets needed to save money. If the case is that the only one outlet on a particular circuit needs to be GFCI then a good electrician will install so that any outlets down-line don't have nuisance tripping.


mbunabum;2687370; said:
Changing breaker size from 15 to 20 is not wise advice if the wire size is not known... the breaker is there to protect wire from excess loads. Verify wire size first... if #14 wire... LEAVE breaker at 15 amps. If wire size is 12 gauge... 20 amp breaker is ok.

Not if the wire is aluminum, then it needs to be a 15 amp even though wire is 12 guage.
 
12 Volt Man;2685167; said:
Hi all. I have just set up a new fishroom in my finished basement with one 150 gallon tank and one 65 gallon tank. I had planned to add a third tank (40gallon breeder planted) but found out that my basement is basically on one circuit... :(

because the basement is finished it might be messy and expensive to run another circuit...

I run a total of about 1250w in my basement (basement lights + aquariums) or 10.5 amps.

I understand that on a normal household 15 amp circuit you should only run at 80% of this or aproximately 12 amps...

if I added a 40 gallon tank it would add 210w to the system bringing the total to about 1460 w or 12.2 amps...

I am trying to decide if I should go with it or not...

I spoke to a qualified electrician (I work with electricians at my place of work) and he said I should be okay..

looking for some suggestions..

should I go for it? or not?

its a tough choice since I have a spot right underneath my 65 for a 40 gallon..that would keep all my tanks in one area of the house...
You will be fine as long as it doesn't spike any higher than that. I am assuming that your calculations include all the equipment possible running at once ?
 
mdb_talon;2687119; said:
The circuit will be in series. Single GFCI outlets will knock out the entire circuit that is after that outlet. So this would only work if the outlet that trips is after the other outlets in the circuit. Personally I would replace the first outlet in the circuit with GFCI to make sure everything is protected (assuming it is not already; in many places GFCI is required for basements by local codes). Having the power go out on the whole tank is much better than death. In my opinion anyway.

As for the breaker I think you will be fine if you never plan to plug anything else in or add a light or anything. Make sure you never try to plug in a vaccum that will not go well.

I would replace the 15 amp breaker with a 20 amp breaker to give you more of a buffer there in case you do need to plug in additional things.
That is ABSURD do not upgrade a circuit breaker alone. You will run the risk of fire and SERIOUS electrical problems. The circuit breaker is there to tell you when your wiring is over used. Simply upping the limit compromises your wiring and puts you at great risk.
As for the person giving this advice what the hell are you thinking ? :WHOA:
 
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