- Have you tested your water?
- Yes
- If yes, what is your ammonia?
- 0
- If yes, what is your nitrite?
- 0
- If yes, what is your nitrate?
- 0.5
- If I did not test my water...
- ...I recognize that I will likely be asked to do a test, and that water tests are critical for solving freshwater health problems.
- Do you do water changes?
- Yes
- What percentage of water do you change?
- 41-50%
- How frequently do you change your water?
- Every week
- If I do not change my water...
- ...I recognize that I will likely be recommended to do a water change, and water changes are critical for preventing future freshwater health problems.
Hello,
I have a Flowerhorn named "Peach" that I have resurrected from the brink of death. He was really bad, it looked like Dropsy, Flukes and HITH hit him simultaneously (scales were flaring out, he kept flashing and he developed a literal hole in his head). He stopped eating and became lethargic and disinterested.
I moved him into a QT tank and shotgunned Metroplex and Kanaplex simultaneously both orally by binding them with Focus to his blood worms, and by dosing the QT tank directly per the instructions of each medicine . He started to get better. I then feared he may have intestinal worms and began dosing the tank with an Epsom Salt solution (2 Tbsp for the 10 gallon). Water changes every two days, no carbon filter, no UV. You can see the before and after image below.
He was on his way to recovery and was active, engaging, and eating again (frozen blood worms), but he has once again stopped eating about 10 days ago.
And the feces was white. It wasn't definitive if it was white because he stopped eating or because he had worms. I tried Garlic Guard to no avail; he would eat and then spit out the food. He's now lost all interest in eating as of about 4 days ago. Bloodworms, pellets, brine shrimp, Cichlid-specific mix, he approaches it then shys away slowly and regresses to a corner and sits there.
Four days ago I came across the Epsom Salt thread @RD created. I ordered some disposable plastic pipettes and made the 3% Epsom Salt bv solution as recommended by @RD and pulled my fish and injected it into him orally (this was my first time doing this to any fish, and it was terrifying for us both, I'm sure). He proceeded to defecate the white feces, and I cleaned it up. Rinse/repeat daily.
I now have both Fenbendazole and Levamisole HCl on the way, Fenbendazole for oral treatment and Levamisole for treating the tank.
Today, a good samaritan on Facebook allowed me the usage of their microscope and I have confirmed he does indeed have what appears to be a nematode infection of Capillaria Philippinensis, concluded by the shape, length, and lemon-shaped eggs.
The Fenbendazole I ordered is Safe Guard Canine Dewormer, since apparently the Thomas Labs Fish Bendazole has been discontinued. I ordered 4 of these, since they were impossible to find locally, and each comes with 3 packets. These packets are 1g total weight with 222mg each of Fenbendazole. They will arrive tomorrow.
The Levamisole I ordered is called "Fritz Expel-P" and will arrive Tuesday. It's intended for fish usage.
My questions are:
1.) I can't find a concise Fenbendazole dosage for a fish for oral delivery. I don't want to overdose this little guy; does anyone have a recommended amount? I saw 1/8 tsp per 1Tbsp of food mix scattered around these forums. Is that accurate for what is roughly a 22% Fenbendazole mixture? It was unclear what the ratio of Fenbendazole to medication-filler the poster was using since no product was listed.
2.) Should I do both force-feeding and environmental dosing of Fenbendazole, or stick with force-feeding? If both, should I cease dosing the tank with Epsom Salt when adding the Fenbendazole? If so, should I do a 100% water change prior to adding the Fenbendazole?
3.) With Epsom Salt 3%bv solution I'm piping to him orally, and the Epsom Salt I've added to the tank, is it advisable to add a little seasalt or sodium chloride to the tank water as well?
4.) Should I be adding any food to these force-fed treatments?
5.) I read all 22 pages of that Epsom Salt thread, and I couldn't find the answer to this anywhere: how often should I be doing it? once a day? twice a day? three times a day? I'll camp out and repeat it every time the feces disconnects if I have to.
6.) Finally, what is the ideal temperature for a QT tank with this sort of infection? Is there a temperature that can slow slow the reproduction of the worms during treatment?
Sorry so long-winded. I'm silently freaking out. These health issues have been going on for almost two months, 33% of the time I've had him, and I'm slowly losing my mind. I love this fish so much.
I should add that he is idling weird. He seems like he twitches now, every 2-4 gill-flares. His mouth bobs like he's breathing, and then on the 3rd or 4th mouth bob, he does a quick little micro-twitch. It doesn't seem to affect him, but idk wtf I'm doing and it could be terminal. Who knows? Anyone? *sigh*
Thank you for taking the time to help me save my fish. We both appreciate it, I'm sure.
This picture was taken 3 days ago, so he's much improved, but I'm worried about my little guy.
#FarmerPeachTheFlowerhorn ?
I have a Flowerhorn named "Peach" that I have resurrected from the brink of death. He was really bad, it looked like Dropsy, Flukes and HITH hit him simultaneously (scales were flaring out, he kept flashing and he developed a literal hole in his head). He stopped eating and became lethargic and disinterested.
I moved him into a QT tank and shotgunned Metroplex and Kanaplex simultaneously both orally by binding them with Focus to his blood worms, and by dosing the QT tank directly per the instructions of each medicine . He started to get better. I then feared he may have intestinal worms and began dosing the tank with an Epsom Salt solution (2 Tbsp for the 10 gallon). Water changes every two days, no carbon filter, no UV. You can see the before and after image below.
He was on his way to recovery and was active, engaging, and eating again (frozen blood worms), but he has once again stopped eating about 10 days ago.
And the feces was white. It wasn't definitive if it was white because he stopped eating or because he had worms. I tried Garlic Guard to no avail; he would eat and then spit out the food. He's now lost all interest in eating as of about 4 days ago. Bloodworms, pellets, brine shrimp, Cichlid-specific mix, he approaches it then shys away slowly and regresses to a corner and sits there.
Four days ago I came across the Epsom Salt thread @RD created. I ordered some disposable plastic pipettes and made the 3% Epsom Salt bv solution as recommended by @RD and pulled my fish and injected it into him orally (this was my first time doing this to any fish, and it was terrifying for us both, I'm sure). He proceeded to defecate the white feces, and I cleaned it up. Rinse/repeat daily.
I now have both Fenbendazole and Levamisole HCl on the way, Fenbendazole for oral treatment and Levamisole for treating the tank.
Today, a good samaritan on Facebook allowed me the usage of their microscope and I have confirmed he does indeed have what appears to be a nematode infection of Capillaria Philippinensis, concluded by the shape, length, and lemon-shaped eggs.
The Fenbendazole I ordered is Safe Guard Canine Dewormer, since apparently the Thomas Labs Fish Bendazole has been discontinued. I ordered 4 of these, since they were impossible to find locally, and each comes with 3 packets. These packets are 1g total weight with 222mg each of Fenbendazole. They will arrive tomorrow.
The Levamisole I ordered is called "Fritz Expel-P" and will arrive Tuesday. It's intended for fish usage.
My questions are:
1.) I can't find a concise Fenbendazole dosage for a fish for oral delivery. I don't want to overdose this little guy; does anyone have a recommended amount? I saw 1/8 tsp per 1Tbsp of food mix scattered around these forums. Is that accurate for what is roughly a 22% Fenbendazole mixture? It was unclear what the ratio of Fenbendazole to medication-filler the poster was using since no product was listed.
2.) Should I do both force-feeding and environmental dosing of Fenbendazole, or stick with force-feeding? If both, should I cease dosing the tank with Epsom Salt when adding the Fenbendazole? If so, should I do a 100% water change prior to adding the Fenbendazole?
3.) With Epsom Salt 3%bv solution I'm piping to him orally, and the Epsom Salt I've added to the tank, is it advisable to add a little seasalt or sodium chloride to the tank water as well?
4.) Should I be adding any food to these force-fed treatments?
5.) I read all 22 pages of that Epsom Salt thread, and I couldn't find the answer to this anywhere: how often should I be doing it? once a day? twice a day? three times a day? I'll camp out and repeat it every time the feces disconnects if I have to.
6.) Finally, what is the ideal temperature for a QT tank with this sort of infection? Is there a temperature that can slow slow the reproduction of the worms during treatment?
Sorry so long-winded. I'm silently freaking out. These health issues have been going on for almost two months, 33% of the time I've had him, and I'm slowly losing my mind. I love this fish so much.
I should add that he is idling weird. He seems like he twitches now, every 2-4 gill-flares. His mouth bobs like he's breathing, and then on the 3rd or 4th mouth bob, he does a quick little micro-twitch. It doesn't seem to affect him, but idk wtf I'm doing and it could be terminal. Who knows? Anyone? *sigh*
Thank you for taking the time to help me save my fish. We both appreciate it, I'm sure.
This picture was taken 3 days ago, so he's much improved, but I'm worried about my little guy.
#FarmerPeachTheFlowerhorn ?
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