FOAM? Yes or no?
- Thread starter STONEDFISH
- Start date
In the case of my sagging stand under the 75G; that problem was actually caused by an uneven concrete basement floor. I didn't realize it when I first set up the tank against a wall on the finished part of the basement; but behind the wall was a metal support post. The cement is slightly tapered upwards around the post to prevent water from settling around it and causing it to rust. Without the foam, the tank would have been twisted putting lots of stress on the seams.
Regarding foam, my compression test lead me to use 1/2" exercise foam under the 75G and the blue-backed insulating foam (sold at Lowes) for the 150G.
Regarding foam, my compression test lead me to use 1/2" exercise foam under the 75G and the blue-backed insulating foam (sold at Lowes) for the 150G.
I used foam on the bottom of my 375g, 180g, and 120g acrylics..
None on the glass tanks.. as long as they are sitting level on the black rims, they are fine.
I read somewhere that the primary reason for using foam, even on glass tanks, is earthquake prevention. Even the most minor of tremors can cause the entire few hundred gallons of water to shift suddenly.. This puts a major stress on the seams when all that water sloshes around at once.
It is believed that if the tank sits on a panel of styrofoam, the styrofoam will actually shift and slide on top of itself, like 2 grinding plates, and absorb some of the pressure from the sudden movement of all that water.
If your stand and tank are completely solid, the seams of the glass or acrylic will be taking the full force of all that water movement.. If the stand isn't built properly, and has the ability to slightly 'twist', the movement of a huge volume of water will buckle that stand pretty quickly.. Unsure if the styrofoam would absorb this type of movement..
I don't know how true it is.. but for $8.. better safe than sorry?
None on the glass tanks.. as long as they are sitting level on the black rims, they are fine.
I read somewhere that the primary reason for using foam, even on glass tanks, is earthquake prevention. Even the most minor of tremors can cause the entire few hundred gallons of water to shift suddenly.. This puts a major stress on the seams when all that water sloshes around at once.
It is believed that if the tank sits on a panel of styrofoam, the styrofoam will actually shift and slide on top of itself, like 2 grinding plates, and absorb some of the pressure from the sudden movement of all that water.
If your stand and tank are completely solid, the seams of the glass or acrylic will be taking the full force of all that water movement.. If the stand isn't built properly, and has the ability to slightly 'twist', the movement of a huge volume of water will buckle that stand pretty quickly.. Unsure if the styrofoam would absorb this type of movement..
I don't know how true it is.. but for $8.. better safe than sorry?
"Every time I see a topic here with pictures of a busted/blown up glass tank I wonder what caused it. "Hey! that broken glass looks like a stress fracture to me. Did you use any foam under it?"
If you think about it; if a stand and floor are perfectly level and the tank is manufactured properly, if it doesn't fail when first filled up it should last for years.
However, if the floor or stand starts to shift over time, then the weakest spot in a seam can fail and start a chain reaction. The seams are spec'd to handle normal water pressure on them, but not the extremely high pressure from a twisting force.
The back corner of my 75G stand was sitting on a high spot on the concrete floor. The floor is carpeted so I didn't notice the gap. So initially the tank and stand was square. But over time the stand sagged in the middle and leaned outwards on the right side (i.e., twisted). The twist is only about 1/16 of an inch. But that's all it takes to put tremendous stress on the seams. After two years I think it has finally settled in. Since I have the foam under the tank and it has compressed under the pressure points, I have no intentions of draining the tank and re-leveling the stand.
If you think about it; if a stand and floor are perfectly level and the tank is manufactured properly, if it doesn't fail when first filled up it should last for years.
However, if the floor or stand starts to shift over time, then the weakest spot in a seam can fail and start a chain reaction. The seams are spec'd to handle normal water pressure on them, but not the extremely high pressure from a twisting force.
The back corner of my 75G stand was sitting on a high spot on the concrete floor. The floor is carpeted so I didn't notice the gap. So initially the tank and stand was square. But over time the stand sagged in the middle and leaned outwards on the right side (i.e., twisted). The twist is only about 1/16 of an inch. But that's all it takes to put tremendous stress on the seams. After two years I think it has finally settled in. Since I have the foam under the tank and it has compressed under the pressure points, I have no intentions of draining the tank and re-leveling the stand.
I'm on the concrete slab, so the floor won't shift when the tank is filled. Once I get the tank and stand in there I'll be able to see where corrections are needed to get everything squared up. I'm building the stand out of 4x4 and 3/4" plywood. so hopefully it will be super solid.
stndfsh
stndfsh
STONEDFISH,
If you do not have carpeting on the slab you should be able to see any gaps. I thought my tank was laying flat but discovered otherwise months later when the carpet crushed down on the uneven cement.
If you do not have carpeting on the slab you should be able to see any gaps. I thought my tank was laying flat but discovered otherwise months later when the carpet crushed down on the uneven cement.
There is carpet on it. Does that help if there is gaps? Do I need foam under my stand too? This scares me!
stndfsh
stndfsh
Carpet padding is relatively low density. It will fully compress when the tank is full. You just need foam between the tank and stand.
For your 240G (72" length I assume), I would recommend the 1/2" blue-backed insulating foam from Lowes. It only comes in 4'x8' sheets. It is rubbery and the compression rate is linear.
Don't use the pink foam board. It has a hard "crust" that is too stiff. Once the crust breaks the foam crushes too easily.
For your 240G (72" length I assume), I would recommend the 1/2" blue-backed insulating foam from Lowes. It only comes in 4'x8' sheets. It is rubbery and the compression rate is linear.
Don't use the pink foam board. It has a hard "crust" that is too stiff. Once the crust breaks the foam crushes too easily.
can you use wood shims to level a tank? im getting a 180 here in a few days and its going in the basement (concrete flooring) and im just curious as to see if this is an acceptable method of leveling a tank?
