For those that reseal their own tanks

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Spider wire fishing line! It works to take windshields out of cars (Slowly)
 
rallysman;3282065; said:
Spider wire fishing line! It works to take windshields out of cars (Slowly)
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I was using guitar string and broke it. LOL

Its not really the "normal" seams that are problematic, it is the euro bracing. Instead of the eurobracing meeting in the corners, they are overlapped. This gives me a zig-zag seam that you cannot get fishing line or any type of string in there. I'm trying to figure out how to separate the two sandwiched pieces.

I might go pick up some spider wire when I go for the outer seams.
 
jcardona1;3281896; said:
bro...just use the worlds best solven....GASOLINE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thats what i used to clean up the residue left behind after scraping away the silicone :)
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Xylene is stronger than gasoline. It works well for cleaning up residue and breaking down exposed silicone. That part we have covered.


I'll get some pics and show where the real issue is.
 
I have used a propane torch and a few hacksaw blades.

just use the torch to heat the blade and push it thru the seam between the 2 pieces of glass.

And for the euro brace pieces that are sandwiched together just heat with the torch from the top and the silicone will melt. Then remove the glass and let it cool on its own. And then you can scrap it off.

The MEK is not a very strong solvent. They sell it at wally world.
If you know anyone the works in a industrial stamping facility they will have access to medium strength acids such as hydrochloric and muratic. The hydro would be better but you will need to keep the silicone wet with the acid for around 12-18 hours for it to fully soften the silicone thru out. It will turn it into a syrup or jel.

In my experience using the acid is easier but takes twice as long as good old fashioned elbow grease. The acid just makes a semi dangerous sloppy mess and it will melt any plastic that it comes into contact with.

I have used the acid only once and the propane 3 times. If I need to totally break down another one i will use the propane.
 
Pharaoh;3281770; said:
There are chemicals that will soften it. Worst case scenario is that i have to break a few of the smaller pieces of glass in order to save the big ones. Many of the euro braces need to be replaced anyway. I am almost to the point of finishing them off in order to get this thing apart.
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BINGO, you have your answer Pharaoh.

I had the same problem resently when I asked how best to break down/ take apart a glass tank.
I tried razor blades, fishing line and fine wire which all worked to a degree.
Access to the silicon seam and it's thick between the sheets of glass can be a major issue.
I had major dramas adjusting a baffle on my monster sump.

I had to increase the height of a baffle so a added a new strip of glass to the top of the baffle.
This piece had to then be removed and moved highier so I tried to remove it using all the methods above.
I could go as far as the middle were the clamp held the glass while curing.
At this point the razors, wire and line could get between the two pieces of glass as the silicon was too thinly spread due the clamps pressure.

I even called a friendly glazier who helps me out with my glass issues and he "thought" he could get it off but soon realised that it was too tight a gap and risked breaking the main baffle.
He removed more than I did but couldn't get the plane off without risking breaking the baffle it was attached to.

I decided to leave the small 10cm piece, though unsightly and add the new piece of glass on the other side of the baffle.

I was told sometimes you can't remove/break down all areas and pieces of glass from a tank and have to sacrifice some pieces for others.
There is nothing that will break down silicon if can't get into the area it is holding i.e. between the glass pieces like wire a razor.

Good luck and post pics as you go mate.
 
hybridtheoryd16;3283083; said:
I have used a propane torch and a few hacksaw blades.

just use the torch to heat the blade and push it thru the seam between the 2 pieces of glass.

And for the euro brace pieces that are sandwiched together just heat with the torch from the top and the silicone will melt. Then remove the glass and let it cool on its own. And then you can scrap it off.

The MEK is not a very strong solvent. They sell it at wally world.
If you know anyone the works in a industrial stamping facility they will have access to medium strength acids such as hydrochloric and muratic. The hydro would be better but you will need to keep the silicone wet with the acid for around 12-18 hours for it to fully soften the silicone thru out. It will turn it into a syrup or jel.

In my experience using the acid is easier but takes twice as long as good old fashioned elbow grease. The acid just makes a semi dangerous sloppy mess and it will melt any plastic that it comes into contact with.

I have used the acid only once and the propane 3 times. If I need to totally break down another one i will use the propane.
Click to expand...

I'll keep the propane idea in mind.
 
I understand, but I just thought it was hilarious how "matter of fact" he was about it.
 
OK...the moderators may want to delete this because, YES, I am bagging on a specific company. I live right down the road from the Glass Cages company here just outside Nashville. I'll tell you this...their reputation locally is not very good. The local serious fish stores will not even sell their tanks. Whether or not it's because of quality or customer service I'm not sure. I've tried calling them 3 or 4 times to ask questions and they acted like they just had no time for me. Once I asked if I could come by to see some of their work. When they realized that I was not really wanting to purchase an aquarium they just told me that they are not a retail shop and that I would need to geive them specs for a tank when I was ready to buy, THEN I could come by. I just have never liked their attitude.
 
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