Fresh to Saltwater conversion

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Ionization -

Most reefers/saltwater fish ppl use RO/DI (reverse osmosis - deionization) systems to purify water, the Re-ionization occurs thru light. The penetrating light excites the electrons of the molecules in the water making them sticky so to speak which allows them to bond more easily with the alk type chemistry used by saltwater inhabitants like corals, to grow (Cal, Mag, Strontium, Sodium, etc...) This bonding of Alk + H20 is measured thru a system called PH or Per Hydrogen Scale, saltwater critters need a stable reading of the PH for their bodies to preform a healthy homeostasis process. Lack of sufficient light can lower the PH dramatically - Alk stuff will drop or fall from suspension. Ideally your SW tank wants to be at the point of Super saturation of alk stuff to create that stable environment.

3x 10 watt shop lights have like ZERO penetration power almost all of the usable light is reflected off at the surface - not enuff energy - wrong reflectors.
 
Otherone said:
Ionization -

Most reefers/saltwater fish ppl use RO/DI (reverse osmosis - deionization) systems to purify water, the Re-ionization occurs thru light. The penetrating light excites the electrons of the molecules in the water making them sticky so to speak which allows them to bond more easily with the alk type chemistry used by saltwater inhabitants like corals, to grow (Cal, Mag, Strontium, Sodium, etc...) This bonding of Alk + H20 is measured thru a system called PH or Per Hydrogen Scale, saltwater critters need a stable reading of the PH for their bodies to preform a healthy homeostasis process. Lack of sufficient light can lower the PH dramatically - Alk stuff will drop or fall from suspension. Ideally your SW tank wants to be at the point of Super saturation of alk stuff to create that stable environment.

3x 10 watt shop lights have like ZERO penetration power almost all of the usable light is reflected off at the surface - not enuff energy - wrong reflectors.
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This is why I'm following.

My bad about the UV suggestion. Just something I had seen over and over again. Can't think why you wouldn't want an overflow on something like a beautiful saltwater tank though. Wouldn't there be deposits on the rim otherwise? I figure salt coming out of the water and I thought I had heard calcium too but please note I'm referring to hearsay.
 
Nothing wrong with over flows they just do nothing for removing dissolved proteins and what your referring to is salt creep - overflows can't prevent this either
 
I went with these leds for shimmer in my frshwater tank and it gives off tons of it. But if I need to up it mh thats fine. I would like corals and such so thats fine and I guess I need to add a sump as well. Im sure I can sell off my canisters easily.

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Otherone said:
Nothing wrong with over flows they just do nothing for removing dissolved proteins and what your referring to is salt creep - overflows can't prevent this either
Click to expand...

Right. I like the water line being maintained at a single height. Without an overflow, the water level drops or raises. The salt creep lays wherever the water line is. Letting the water level go up and down gives you a range of salt creep. By keeping it high or just above the rim, it's limited or not visible. Keeps what is visible looking beautiful like the corals. Not covered in salt creep. Not that I would leave salt creep or want to let my water imbalance to have salt creep or algae everywhere. Before I get assumed again.
 
Wrong again - salt creep occurs due to evaporation of the water over a prolonged period of time - it gets on the tank, sump, walls, cabinet, even outlets which is very dangerous
 
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