From the start... 155g Bowfront RBP tank
- Thread starter the buszkock
- Start date
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here's a how to on 3d background
here's a how to on 3d background
SUPPLY PLUMBING
The 155g bowfront. This is on the second floor of the house. The joists run perpendicular to the wall the tank is against, and the load bearing wall is literally directly under the center of the tank. In such a position the 1800 lbs. of water, tank and sump will be carried safely.
From this angle you can see the 155 on the left, and a new sink behind the wall in a closet/ small room behind it.
[FONT="]You gotta start somewhere.
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The crawlspace before I started clearing, cleaning, modifying etc.
[FONT="]Under this BLANKET was THIS wiring job. Yikes!
[/FONT][FONT="]
[/FONT][FONT="]So worth the investment. Plus I sound like Darth Vader.
[/FONT] Behind the bathroom wall are these easily accessed pipes. Tying into the lead 1 1/2" waste required some care. Lead bends and melts easily. No big deal, just tried to be conscientious.
Note the fire extinguisher-- there was a lot of loose insulation back here so I wasn't taking chances. I sweated the pipes accurately but also as quickly as I could to avoid starting any fires in that small space. Tip for DIY plumbers: use a shop-Vac to suck out water left in the line. Best trick I learned.
Arrrrggghhh. Sometimes it gets worse before it gets better. This is really unacceptable though...
All new 1.5 PVC waste, (mainly salvaged) cold supply and insulated hot supply. I vacuumed the area and fixed the loose wiring in that electric box.
Through and behind the shelf base. In front of these pipes I will attach a false back so that the space in front is usable and not too ugly.
And here's the end of the new cold and hot supply & waste. I went back and added this $20 pressure gauge to monitor current pressures when using the RO/DI unit. Also you can see the 1/4" supply valve for the RO/DI unit.
Water pressure at 57psi. The RO/DI unit I bought says 65psi is optimal and will ensure the max amount of water will be produced. But the expense of adding a booster to increase 8 psi is not justified here.
Kent Marine RO DI unit Maxxima HI S 35gpd-- $210 online
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[/FONT]
The 155g bowfront. This is on the second floor of the house. The joists run perpendicular to the wall the tank is against, and the load bearing wall is literally directly under the center of the tank. In such a position the 1800 lbs. of water, tank and sump will be carried safely.
From this angle you can see the 155 on the left, and a new sink behind the wall in a closet/ small room behind it.
[FONT="]You gotta start somewhere.
[/FONT]
The crawlspace before I started clearing, cleaning, modifying etc.
[FONT="]Under this BLANKET was THIS wiring job. Yikes!
[/FONT][FONT="]
[/FONT][FONT="]So worth the investment. Plus I sound like Darth Vader.
[/FONT] Behind the bathroom wall are these easily accessed pipes. Tying into the lead 1 1/2" waste required some care. Lead bends and melts easily. No big deal, just tried to be conscientious.
Note the fire extinguisher-- there was a lot of loose insulation back here so I wasn't taking chances. I sweated the pipes accurately but also as quickly as I could to avoid starting any fires in that small space. Tip for DIY plumbers: use a shop-Vac to suck out water left in the line. Best trick I learned.
Arrrrggghhh. Sometimes it gets worse before it gets better. This is really unacceptable though...
All new 1.5 PVC waste, (mainly salvaged) cold supply and insulated hot supply. I vacuumed the area and fixed the loose wiring in that electric box.
Through and behind the shelf base. In front of these pipes I will attach a false back so that the space in front is usable and not too ugly.
And here's the end of the new cold and hot supply & waste. I went back and added this $20 pressure gauge to monitor current pressures when using the RO/DI unit. Also you can see the 1/4" supply valve for the RO/DI unit.
Water pressure at 57psi. The RO/DI unit I bought says 65psi is optimal and will ensure the max amount of water will be produced. But the expense of adding a booster to increase 8 psi is not justified here.
Kent Marine RO DI unit Maxxima HI S 35gpd-- $210 online
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Since you have water supply right behind the tank, why not do an auto drip system? this way you don't have to change water, EVER~!
as for light, I really like how my metal halide look on my 180g, love the shimmer effect.
as for plants you can go with floating plants like water lettuces, they grow fast and that helps of absorbing nitrate. They can also create coverage at the surface to reduce light in the tank if thats the effect you are looking for. just put some screen/mesh around overflow inlet to keep the plants away. you can also keep them in the sump if you don't want them in the main tank.
as for other plants, typical low light plants will do such as java fern and anubias.
as for light, I really like how my metal halide look on my 180g, love the shimmer effect.
as for plants you can go with floating plants like water lettuces, they grow fast and that helps of absorbing nitrate. They can also create coverage at the surface to reduce light in the tank if thats the effect you are looking for. just put some screen/mesh around overflow inlet to keep the plants away. you can also keep them in the sump if you don't want them in the main tank.
as for other plants, typical low light plants will do such as java fern and anubias.
Wow nice project. All the work will pay off in the end though. Can't wait to get out of my apartment and into a house I can mod to my liking.
ur son's very lucky guy. for me as a son, my dad wants me to quit this awesome hobby. NEVER!!!!!!
Tell your dad that you're learning about plumbing, electricity, chemistry, biology, animal husbandry, engineering, artistry and design, ecology, and oceanography-- instead of roaming the streets and getting into trouble. I'd rather pay a high electric bill every month than bail even once.lix.ma14;4893365;4893365 said:
