Frontosa breeding

Ashfro

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Jun 4, 2019
89
8
8
25
Bangalore
Hi guys ,
I am getting 40 frontosa of 7 different frontosa species where I am getting young adult frontosas in ratio of 2 males and 5 females so please suggest me what is the breeding set up temperature and medicine should I use .I am planning to do natural release method where I will be separating the female to other tank and I am not a fan of stripping fry
 

neutrino

Goliath Tigerfish
MFK Member
Jan 22, 2013
2,400
2,640
179
Mid-Atlantic, US
When you look at environmental surveys done in the lake itself, their natural habitat historically ranges from @ 74F to @ 77F, depending on depth (Cyphotilapia are found at varying depths). I say "historically" because climate change has gradually but steadily warmed Lake Tanganyika, @ 1.8 degrees F over the past century according to one source. I generally keep mine 75-78. Their tank may get slightly warmer in summer. They can handle 70 to 80 with no real issues for most people (based on people's experience in hot climates, temporary low 80s is okay if there's good oxygen, but higher than that stresses them-- more information than you asked for, but as long as I'm on the subject).

Breeding is often influenced by the alpha male. Females can be capable of producing eggs at @ 18 months (from 1" inch fry size) occasionally earlier-- I had one that began dropping eggs at 15 months. Males take longer, more in the 3-5 year range, typically. But it's not just age, breeding is also affected by the alpha male's temperament and interest. Overly aggressive, overly passive, or disinterested males can inhibit success. I haven't seen it often, but it's also possible to get an aggressive female that spends too much time chasing lesser females be a problem. Getting the social chemistry right in a group can make a difference and some tinkering with a group to get that right can pay off ime.

Feeding can also influence breeding. Some have used market shrimp, mysis shrimp, or similar treats to encourage spawns. Earlier this year I'd gotten some wild Peru scalare (different tank) that took some time before they'd eat anything. Some congo tetras were in their tank and they were aggressive eaters, so I divided off a small section of one of my kapampa tanks and put the congos in there with the idea of returning them to the SA tank once the angels started eating-- the congos escaped and the kapampa had an expensive snack; however, soon I had a spawn. Fronts don't always need such extra feeding attention to breed well but sometimes it helps.

That said, I'd recommend against lfs feeders, which can carry pathogens due to the conditions they tend to be kept in.

I assume you'll keep the different types in different tanks-- Cyphotilapia easily breed between the two species (C. frontosa, C. gibberosa) or between location variants.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Ashfro

neutrino

Goliath Tigerfish
MFK Member
Jan 22, 2013
2,400
2,640
179
Mid-Atlantic, US
...Reviewing your post to see if I covered everything, I notice you mention medicine. Beyond an occasional bit of salt or mild dose of Melafix (mild meaning in the neighborhood of 1/3 label recommended dose, typically) to heal the occasional scuffs, etc. from chasing, I've very rarely had to medicate mine. In good conditions they tend to be pretty robust fish.

Their primary weakness is females can become egg bound, which may call for a fairly heavy Epsom salt treatment, or other treatment. I spent a lot of time trying to pin down the cause-- reading, polling on a big Cyphotilpia forum, etc. trying to pin it down to something concrete, but it seems somewhat random and may just come down to individual susceptibility as much as anything else. Stress, nutrition, etc. can also be factors but this seems random, not something you can consistently point to. Ime, if you get some that seem to have this weakness, adding some espom salt, either with regular water changes and/or even more when a female is holding eggs seems to help. Getting egg bound is fairly serious for fronts and can kill a female.

Another condition some are susceptible to is float (different condition from bloat), which can be mild and cause them to bob back and forth a little while in place or get to the point it takes effort for them to stay underwater. Epsom salt can help this also.
 
Last edited:
zoomed.com
hikariusa.com
aqaimports.com
Store