I am building a 180 g 6 x 2 x 2, and looking to stock it with a ball park bio load of like 6.) pbass (hopefully 2 timensus) _spelling?, 1.)TSN,1.)Arrow. I think want to hard plumb 2-4 large canister filters (fluval fx5 or the equivalent n an ehiem) through bottom of the tank(inlets) and the outlets 3/4 of the way to the top through the back. I have been working with glass for about 13 yrs and just now really getting into aquariums. So I'm really comfortable with fabrication side of the build but could use some advice on the size bulk heads i should use and what size hole to drill to support the filtration. I really like the clean look of the plumbed tank and the cabinet with canisters. will I run into a problem not incorporating a w/d with fish I want to keep.
Getting It Right The First Time
- Thread starter glassman
- Start date
would a 3/4" bulk head support these large can's, and body know a 3/4" bh can flow under pressure. I currently have a cascade 1500. Any body have any experience plumbing one through the bottom.
Probably gonna run into some trouble down the track with the tsn and the arowana getting a little big.
Have you thought about running a sump?
Have you thought about running a sump?
I would go for a decent w/d option rather than all the canisters. If you are good with glass you can make a 55g or 75g sump for under neath. For 10x turn over, aiming for 1800gph, I would suggest (2) 1.5" drains into the sump (in case one fails the other can carry the entire load). For returns, 2 smaller pumps at 1k gph @ 4'. Going into spray bars/ returns. The returns can be 3/4" handling the pressure from the pumps. Design sump with mechanical filtration on the outside, then bio balls/ ceramic rings, then heaters pumps central in the w/d.
I have been planning mine out for a while, just saving up now to get it done.
if you wanted to keep a canister to polish the water with more mech, by all means.
I have been planning mine out for a while, just saving up now to get it done.
if you wanted to keep a canister to polish the water with more mech, by all means.
Was hoping to avoid putting an overflow bow in the tank. Would i get less noise and evaporation with the cans over the sump. Any body running similar set up with cans that keeps up well with bio load
Say I were to run a w/d and put an over flow in. What size inlets should I drill for 10x 180gph - 2 x 500 gph (fx5 canisters). So say around 800gph. Also what length and width dimension on overflow box. Quiet is important to me(wife). I would imagine the sump to be 36 x 18 x 18. Any opinions on putting a single o/f box in the center and plumbing the 2 can's on either end to try to keep thing symmetrical, plus i dont have any more room in house to go bigger than 6 x 2 x 2 and two o/f boxes would have me feelin crowded. Really would love to have 0 o/f boxes in tank + dont want tank reaching 30" into my room from the wall so external o/f is out of the question. I hope i'm not wining too much. I'm just ready to order my glass and need to come up with my hole configuration. Please any advice and all opinions
welcome. Thanks
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welcome. Thanks http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/images/smilies/nilly.gif
hey glassman,
- 3/4 - 1" bh will be fine for hard plumbing canisters, but having the inlet at the bottom (bottom drilled holes) could end up being a massive headache if a canister springs a leak....your whole tank will drain....
- you can have your holes on the back panel towards the top - and then just use pvc to get the inlet to the bottom, adding in siphon breaks
- for the fish you want....3-4 canisters may suffice, but your water change sched is gonna have to be top notch, and feeding kept under control.....
- w/d or sump is a great option....
- you don't need a full overflow box - meaning one that goes from bottom of tank up...you can drill your holes closer to the top of the rear back panel - and then just make a box from acrylic that is large enough to cover them - leaving the bottom footprint alone, and not taking up as much space
- you would need 2 holes - and you could plumb it herbie style - one 90degree elbow down for the main drain controlled via gate valve, and one 90degree elbow unrestricted pointing up for the e-drain
good luck!
- 3/4 - 1" bh will be fine for hard plumbing canisters, but having the inlet at the bottom (bottom drilled holes) could end up being a massive headache if a canister springs a leak....your whole tank will drain....
- you can have your holes on the back panel towards the top - and then just use pvc to get the inlet to the bottom, adding in siphon breaks
- for the fish you want....3-4 canisters may suffice, but your water change sched is gonna have to be top notch, and feeding kept under control.....
- w/d or sump is a great option....
- you don't need a full overflow box - meaning one that goes from bottom of tank up...you can drill your holes closer to the top of the rear back panel - and then just make a box from acrylic that is large enough to cover them - leaving the bottom footprint alone, and not taking up as much space
- you would need 2 holes - and you could plumb it herbie style - one 90degree elbow down for the main drain controlled via gate valve, and one 90degree elbow unrestricted pointing up for the e-drain
good luck!