give me some feedback

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Potts050;489919; said:
Check this out...


*** 30psf Live Load, Douglass Fir/Larch #2 Fb=1450 E=1.7mil.psi
(Deflection = 1/360)
o.c.
Spacing 2x6 2x8 2x10 2x12
12" 12' 0" 15'10" 20' 3" 24' 8"
16" 10'11" 14' 5" 18' 5" 22' 5"
24" 9' 7" 12' 7" 16' 1" 19' 7"

Simply supported truss deflections are easier to calculate with more reliable results. If you want to break up a span with an additional leg ensure that the load is born but not fastened to the leg to allow expansion and contraction with changing temperature and humidity. An inch of high density foam between the tank bottom and the stand will help to offset the deflection.

I'm more in favour of using more on center trusses for a longer span than using center support. Make sure that you allow a minimum of 4 sq" bearing area on your trusses for spans greater that 48". This may require using a top plate, or a 4"X4" rather than dimensional lumber on edge.

Hey Chompers...ever notice Canadians have way too much time on their hands... :D
 
Check this out...


*** 30psf Live Load, Douglass Fir/Larch #2 Fb=1450 E=1.7mil.psi
(Deflection = 1/360)
o.c.
Spacing 2x6 2x8 2x10 2x12
12" 12' 0" 15'10" 20' 3" 24' 8"
16" 10'11" 14' 5" 18' 5" 22' 5"
24" 9' 7" 12' 7" 16' 1" 19' 7"

Simply supported truss deflections are easier to calculate with more reliable results. If you want to break up a span with an additional leg ensure that the load is born but not fastened to the leg to allow expansion and contraction with changing temperature and humidity. An inch of high density foam between the tank bottom and the stand will help to offset the deflection.

I'm more in favour of using more on center trusses for a longer span than using center support. Make sure that you allow a minimum of 4 sq" bearing area on your trusses for spans greater that 48". This may require using a top plate, or a 4"X4" rather than dimensional lumber on edge.

I like the idea of a table like that. That would make life so much easier. The different influences on the the "trusses" should just somehow be taken into account. Please correct me if I'm wrong but: 150G would weigh in at round about 1300 odd pounds. Now 2' x 4' = 8sqr' ; 1300pounds/8sq' = 162.5psf or 1.128psi. The tank's load is a teeny bit more than the allowed live load relevant to your table.
The other factor I'm hesitant to use is your E (modules of elasticity). The charts I've seen ranges lumber between 1Mpsi and 1.9Mpsi. So I use 1Mpsi in my calcs. I just want to make sure my design will hold up, even if the lumber yard supplies me wiff poop wood.

I agree with using foam between the tank and the stand. Especially if it's a glass tank. This is a given with any tank I own. I'll never fill a tank without a polystyrene layer between it and the surface it's standing on.

As for your last paragraph... :confused: no clue. Sound like good advice though.
 
4 4x4 legs are plenty strong enough i have got a 125 gal on 2x6 legs for 3 years no sweat.
 
I like yall's way of thinking. I just have one bit of advice. When designing timber structures you need to use the applicable adjustment factors. Some combinations of these factors will significantly reduce the design strength of your components.
 
crazy_cavi;487098; said:
the tank is a 150g :confused: not a 55g i put in the 5th and sixth leg all of the 4x4s are screwed in with 45* chunx of 4x4 and they are between 2 frames. i dont know how the prefab stand was suppose to work the thickest wood on it was 5/8 and it was all put together with finishing nails and glue :P. and it is supported laterally with 2x4 construction studs sorry about the long wait in replying its just that i thought this post got forgotten because i checked it a day after and it was half way down the page already but neway thx

Now I could be wrong but a 150 gallon tank that has a 24"X48" base would be nearly 5 feet tall. The load on any table you put it on would be nearly 350 lb/square ft live load with monster fish, water, gravel and rockery.

Check your span tables but I wouldnt go smaller than three joists of double 2"X10" spruce construction grade lumber in your truss construction with at least a 1/2" plywood (marine grade if in the budget) membrane on top, for a tank four feet long and five feet tall. Simply support the ends, ie only the ends! Tanks although they look like rectangular boxes will bulge out on the sides and sag in the middle once full (slight but noticeable if you look down the edge or hold a four foot level along the side). If you try to support the middle, particularly on a tall tank you will introduce some uncalculable stress in the glass that you may explosively regret. More monster tanks have been destroyed by ill conceived stands than anything else I know of.
 
more easy to work with 2x4's IMO just as strong as 4x4's, Also the middle leg I recently cut out to fit my sump, so I only have five legs holding up a 190g.

stand_060.jpg

stand_030.jpg

st5.jpg
 
thats what i did im sorry im not a whiz or anything so i dont have any drawn schematics
but for the top i have 2x 48" 4x4's and 2x24"4x4 built into a frame just like they build houses....
and between them i have 6 14" legs making the stand 21" off the ground
frames are connceted to the legs with 5" lag bolts (drilled down an extra inch past the surface) and the stand is braced with 4x4 45` peices at every inside corner
and crossways with 2x4 where my shelves and doors are going to be
 
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