I was hoping to have the top really clean and get the return in the tank. I wonder if 1 herbie would be suffecient. At any rate, I am definitely planning on building my own. I'm building the stand right now out of 2x6's. I measured the glass, it is 12mm (slightly under 1/2"), I don't think it is tempered, I will check with some polarized sunglasses.
Got a 210 Gallon drilled - Does it sound safe? Building a Stand, Sump, Bean Animal Overflow
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I was hoping to have the top really clean and get the return in the tank. I wonder if 1 herbie would be suffecient. At any rate, I am definitely planning on building my own. I'm building the stand right now out of 2x6's. I measured the glass, it is 12mm (slightly under 1/2"), I don't think it is tempered, I will check with some polarized sunglasses.
What about 2 Herbie's, a single emergency, and a single return? That would utilize all 4 holes and keep things clean looking. If 1 Herbie clogs, I still would have 1 Herbie working and an emergency.
I'm going to be keeping Cichlids so unless a tiny fish goes over the weir, I do not see how a clog could even occur.
I'm going to be keeping Cichlids so unless a tiny fish goes over the weir, I do not see how a clog could even occur.
Its really up to you. I would say the odds are slim that both of your drains would get clogged simultaneously, but I'm sure it could happen. I could see myself trying something similar to what youre suggesting. Use a strainer over the drains to stay on the safe side at least
Like I said before, the silicon on the glass to glass joint looks really good, no bubbles in it from what I can tell. However, it looks like a cleaner went pretty hard on the corners and the silicone is chipping away inside the tank (the finger smooth joints). I don't think this area is has much to do with the structural integrity but thought I'd post a picture to get opinions.
Stand is getting close and painted the back flat black. I am currently using a block plane on the top of the stand to get it completely flat.
I am going to have to put in jack posts and beams. The aquarium will be parallel to my floor joists, will hit (3) 2x8's spanning about 14'. The problem is, my main trunk from my furnace is running right under the joists I need to support. I think I may have to move my HVAC!
I am going to have to put in jack posts and beams. The aquarium will be parallel to my floor joists, will hit (3) 2x8's spanning about 14'. The problem is, my main trunk from my furnace is running right under the joists I need to support. I think I may have to move my HVAC!
No ply, framed glass tanks are supported just on the perimeter. I am using a block plane to make sure all corners are making even contact.
Parallel to the joists, an exterior load bearing wall (perpendicular) would be the best option but I do not have a wall to put it on. The tank is running with 3 joists (mine are 16" on center but doubled up every other). The joists measure more like 1.5" x 7.25", house was built in 1954.
Any worries with the inside silicone seams? Again, the glass to glass contact looks great, do not see any bubbles.
Thanks
Understood on the frame. Just thought perhaps you wanted to cover/protect the tank for underneath the stand.
I've personally not dealt with silicone in that condition so hard to say. Although, if the silicone appears to be air/bubble free, that's a good sign. I don't remember if you had water tested in the garage or outside, or plan to, before finally setting into place?
I've personally not dealt with silicone in that condition so hard to say. Although, if the silicone appears to be air/bubble free, that's a good sign. I don't remember if you had water tested in the garage or outside, or plan to, before finally setting into place?
We knew the current owner, he worked on the house where the tank was then ended up buying the house, kind of funny. He said it was professionally cleaned weekly and was running for 3 years or so. He was not interested in keeping fish so when he bought the house it just sat dry (but left in the same living room) for 2-3 years. The aquarium only moved when it was new, and then when I removed it from the wall and drove it to my house. I'm pretty sure it is an Aqueon, I know they used the Megaflow overflows and the trim/bracing looks like theirs too.
I'm in MN so no outside water testing right now, this morning was -9F.
Spent all last night hand planing the top of the stand, sliding the aquarium back and forth to constantly check. All 4 corners are making perfect contact, a piece of paper does not slide in. The front and back in the middle has around a 1/16" gap. I have been reading that it is the corners that matter in a framed aquarium and take the load. I could keep planing to lessen that gap but wonder if it should be left alone as is?
-9F ouch.
I am certainly not an expert here, but if the corners are flat and there's 1/16 in the center I would make a closer assessment to stop or continue. The plastic on the tank itself may not be "perfectly flat", so planing to make 100% contact may end up creating a grater gap at the corners.
Perhaps a good time to fill with water and see how it sits. Good for preliminary water test too. Just my .02.
I am certainly not an expert here, but if the corners are flat and there's 1/16 in the center I would make a closer assessment to stop or continue. The plastic on the tank itself may not be "perfectly flat", so planing to make 100% contact may end up creating a grater gap at the corners.
Perhaps a good time to fill with water and see how it sits. Good for preliminary water test too. Just my .02.
