Thanks folks I thought is was some type algae but wanted some advise I will be riding it when I do my next water change. It looks like it is a pretty clingy algae it looks like I will have to soak it in a bleech water solution to get rid of it.
green spider web like growth
- Thread starter mostlycichlids
- Start date
Yeah, I agree that it is filametous algae after seeing the pics. Here are a few links to cotroling it or eradicating it. Good luck bro.
http://ohioline.osu.edu/a-fact/0003.html
http://aquaplant.tamu.edu/database/algae/filamentous_algae_mgmt.htm
http://ohioline.osu.edu/a-fact/0003.html
http://aquaplant.tamu.edu/database/algae/filamentous_algae_mgmt.htm
I was doing some reading on it and come to the conclusion that the tank really needs to be striped down and everything needs to be soaked and cleaned in bleech water.
http://freshaquarium.about.com/cs/maintenance1/p/algaebeard.htm
http://www.sydneycichlid.com/content/?page_id=146
http://freshaquarium.about.com/cs/maintenance1/p/algaebeard.htm
http://www.sydneycichlid.com/content/?page_id=146
That's the best/fastest way to rid yourself of it.
People with large tanks or are unable to move their fish to different facilities can use the 'organic' method...it takes longer (4-5 days) but usually works.
Algae need 3 things to grow light source, food and water. We can limit 2 of these.
Without knowing the specs of your tank / fish / plants etc. I'll give you the generic version...
Brush off any loose or easy to get to algae to get it into suspension, then do a 50% W/C.
Turn off lighting & cover tank to preclude any outside light getting in. Do Not Peek.
Stop feeding for the first 3 days, then reduced feedings.
IF fish are salt tolerant, you can add it per half recommended dosage.
Raise temp to 85* for first 2 days, then return to normal.
After 4-5 days algae should be gone for the most part and controllable.
Remove covers.
Reduce lighting, stagger lighting - 2hrs on 2hrs off, algae can't cope with this and won't grow.
Add live plants to help remove extra nutrients.
More frequent or larger W/C's
But if you can, try justin's idea first...rosy barbs. (Just get healthy ones not feeders)
Like I said this is a generic, non-chemical (except salt) answer not knowing all the circumstances.
Use of a UV sterilizer on the return of your filter system, if practical, ( if not, an selfcontained unit) will stop free floating algae and spores dead.
Or you could transfer the inhabitants to another tank, (HERE is where you make a Major decision...clean the filter or not..algae is in the filter and you risk recontaminating the new tank by using the old filter in the cleaned tank) pour bleach in the old tank and let it set a day, aggitating every couple of hours, break it all down, wash everything (toothbrush works good here, just dedicate it to the aquarium afterwards) with a mild soap to break bleach bond and then rinse profusely... then rinse again. Set tank back up with aged / treated water, check chlorine/chloramine levels and start cycling it... fast or slow... your choice.
Rosy barbs are startin' to sound better.
Good Luck and keep us posted...
Dr Joe
.
People with large tanks or are unable to move their fish to different facilities can use the 'organic' method...it takes longer (4-5 days) but usually works.
Algae need 3 things to grow light source, food and water. We can limit 2 of these.
Without knowing the specs of your tank / fish / plants etc. I'll give you the generic version...
Brush off any loose or easy to get to algae to get it into suspension, then do a 50% W/C.
Turn off lighting & cover tank to preclude any outside light getting in. Do Not Peek.
Stop feeding for the first 3 days, then reduced feedings.
IF fish are salt tolerant, you can add it per half recommended dosage.
Raise temp to 85* for first 2 days, then return to normal.
After 4-5 days algae should be gone for the most part and controllable.
Remove covers.
Reduce lighting, stagger lighting - 2hrs on 2hrs off, algae can't cope with this and won't grow.
Add live plants to help remove extra nutrients.
More frequent or larger W/C's
But if you can, try justin's idea first...rosy barbs. (Just get healthy ones not feeders)
Like I said this is a generic, non-chemical (except salt) answer not knowing all the circumstances.
Use of a UV sterilizer on the return of your filter system, if practical, ( if not, an selfcontained unit) will stop free floating algae and spores dead.
Or you could transfer the inhabitants to another tank, (HERE is where you make a Major decision...clean the filter or not..algae is in the filter and you risk recontaminating the new tank by using the old filter in the cleaned tank) pour bleach in the old tank and let it set a day, aggitating every couple of hours, break it all down, wash everything (toothbrush works good here, just dedicate it to the aquarium afterwards) with a mild soap to break bleach bond and then rinse profusely... then rinse again. Set tank back up with aged / treated water, check chlorine/chloramine levels and start cycling it... fast or slow... your choice.
Rosy barbs are startin' to sound better.
Good Luck and keep us posted...
Dr Joe
.
Dr Joe;599779; said:
i know what you meant but id like to make a correction
algae need light, nutrients and water (though water can be clasified as a nutrient)
algae doesnt need food, they are photosynthetic. They make there own food by converting light, CO2 and water into sugar (food) and oxygen (as a waste product).
mostlycichlids;595945; said:
how long has this tank been set-up?
usually in newly set-up planted tanks, algae blooms are vry common, but gradually disapear as the plants take hold and establish.
DeLgAdO;602147; said:
First Webster's defines it as a "substance serving as foodespaecially for plants"
then http://countrystudies.us/united-states/weather/florida/tampa.htm
Water in itself is not a food source. It can contain a food source or essential minerals / vitamins, but water itself has no nutritional value per... http://www.fns.usda.gov/cnd/menu/fmnv.htm
(2) Water Ices--As defined by 21 CFR 135.160 Food and Drug Administration Regulations except that water ices which contain fruit or fruit juices are not included in this definition.
ifso facto...light / food / water.
Oh, algae is autotrophic also, hense the hard time getting rid of it.
Dr Joe
.
