Green tree python

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As long as their temperature and humidity "cycles" are stabilized, they seem to be very easy to keep provided that they are from strong parents. They're more delicate so you do need to be instinctual, but for the most part they're far more low maintenance than I had originally thought.

I'm currently on the look out for more (they are indeed very addictive), carefully plotting out my colony that will fit into breeding plans, but I'm also being very finicky as these are fair investments and looking out for quality specimens beyond the appearance is proving to be time consuming.
 
I was lucky to get another GTP today, this female comes from a HW Aru type and also Jade x Aru.
To be honest, she looks a lot better than she does here under the incandescent lighting at night time.
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CBB 2011 by Eric Hasler (the absolute best guy for chondros up North here). Looks to be gaining more white from the looks of her scales.
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Photo Credit: Eric Hasler. Hopefully she will be as beautiful as her mother.
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Just for the heck of it, here is my new black pine snake as well.
Please excuse my disgusting hairy knuckles.

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The 1/4 of Aru in her is a wonderful hormonal blue female. All pictures in this post belongs to Eric.
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The following is the 'devilish' Biak female. She is very yellow as you can see here.
A bit sad to hear she won't be a part of his 8 pairings this year but there's always next season and things like this are worth waiting for..
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A couple of people asked me what "morph" or 'designer line' the yellow Biak female is.

She was the result of a WC Biak pairing. I believe that most of the babies from this pairing were red. He kept back a couple of yellow ones that didn't receive as much interest and well, I'm sure he doesn't regret a thing about how things transpired.

No, it's not a "banana cream pie thunder yellow" morph, or anything like that as some other people in the pet trade would like to call it.
 
Nice gtp's.

The father of your first acquired looks a lot Sorong.

the yellow Biak towards the end of this thread will gain a lot of green, although at the age it appears to be, it will retain a fair amount of yellow ( but, as you lnow, and opposed to all other localities, Biaks ontogenic change can last for more than 5 years ).

As to keeping, and not wanting to sound " professorial " gtp's are not snakes to handle. You should be used to handle it, of course, during the day, in case you need to take care of something. As examples for that is medicating, removal of stuck sheds, etc. Not for " playing".

Be very attentive to its habitat conditions, and keep them as stable as possible. Gtp's have two big problems, imho, one is the super tendency for repiratory infections, the other is ( enhanced by its Biak blood ) the agressive feeding response and biting the tongs in their urge to attack. Mice really need to be warm with these guys.

In my experience, a tong bite always resulta in broken teeth, even when the snake feeds normally after biting the tongs. And untended broken teeth equal mouth rot,estomatitis and it all goes downhill ....

Again, I am a fan of these crittersw, but they are not as easy to keep in permanence as people nowadya tend to think ( not being rocket science obviously ). Feel free to discuss any doubts you might have.

M
 
Hi Miguel,

The father with the lots of blue is actually the result of a Jade male and the hormonal blue Aru female. He does has a lot of blue, which I like. The blue isn't connected throughout like in the Sorong. Regardless, nice animal. He is actually the father of both of mine.

The Biak is about 90% yellow right now. The thing I do like about Biak is that they do take a longer period to complete their colour change. My first male, which is 1/2 Biak, is still gaining more white speckles at his age.

I don't handle them anymore, I got the impression (quite correctly) that they'd be happier to be left alone and I respect that. I do take it out of the enclosure and examine the snake once every 2 days or so without getting them to unperch.

As for the RI, I don't spray my guys except during shed cycles and after meals. The relative humidity is at around 65-80% and even up to 90% peaks after spraying. There are some interesting reads about not spraying them twice a day as some people do out there. A bulk of this ideology stems from stagnantly wet environments leading to RI.

Luckily they are both gentle when it comes to taking prey items from my hemostat. They seem to have a very conservative way of taking them without striking. I am getting a pure Biak by the end of the month, so I will definitely take a note of that.

In my limited experience, as long as the parameters are stabilized it is fairly easy to keep. I don't really see the advanced part of its husbandry that some people make it out to be. We just need to be more mindful of the fact that they are more delicate - look at them, they are somewhat of living jewels.

I've seen pictures of your Chondros a long ago, I remember it was a large collection. Which ones do you have?

Cheers.
 
do they ever stop changing color? is there any good care sheet you can post a link to? thanks
 
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