Thanks for the info I have the noise situation taken care of by having both drains full siphon below the water with ball valves connected. My problem now is I can't match the flow of the drains to the return flow of the pump. So I am either slowly overflowing display or slowing overflowing sump depending how I adjust valves. How can I fix this while still keeping drains submergedCanisters? But what's the fun in that? j/k
I just watch the durso video. In my experience if your primary drain for the Herbie is sufficiently below the waterline to create continuous siphon, it is as silent as ay properly implemented durso standpipe. I think where the noise is introduced is when you have the trickle stand-by (i.e. second drain). As the return fluctuates, it increases the waterflow to a point sometimes a bit more than just a trickle - this results in increased air into the standpipe. I occasionally hear this at night when fans aren't running and other background noise. But overall, it's just as noise free as the durso approach in this video. Just sharing as there are options to have a quiet overflow.
This is a picture of my Herbie awhile back. I've since cut the primary drain (with strainer) by a couple inches to eliminate the swishing sound. I then also cut my second trickle drain a bit as well. I left the third as is.
View attachment 1141911
H2 overflow noise help
- Thread starter Torchia32
- Start date
So you now have two drains 1.5" drains at full siphon? Why not just have one and use the second as trickle/stand-by? Noise should not be an issue done right and you should still have plenty capacity to drain.
What is the gph on your return pump? Do you have an valve? If it's not a DC pump, you likely need the ball or gate valve to match the drain.
What is the gph on your return pump? Do you have an valve? If it's not a DC pump, you likely need the ball or gate valve to match the drain.
Yes right now I have two 1.5" drains both with a ball valve and both fully submerged. Are you suggesting to leave 1 submerged and the other have at water height? Won't the one at water height be loud again like when they were both at water height?
What he's suggesting is you have 2 drains. One is below water level, the "main" drain. The other one is above the water level, just a little bit, and it's the "backup" drain. He's assuming that just a single 1.5 inch drain will drain the output of your pump (You NEED to check that).
The gate valves instead of ball valves is because gate valves are capable of much finer gradations of open and close--more finer adjustment, than a plain old cheap ball valve.
Also, you're gonna have a REAL hard time trying to tune 2 independent drains with 2 independent valves like that. Check my build thread and see how I tied mine together to get around that problem.
The gate valves instead of ball valves is because gate valves are capable of much finer gradations of open and close--more finer adjustment, than a plain old cheap ball valve.
Also, you're gonna have a REAL hard time trying to tune 2 independent drains with 2 independent valves like that. Check my build thread and see how I tied mine together to get around that problem.
Torchia --
My build thread is a quick description and a bunch of pics. It doesn't explain what I did, why I did it, as well as the build thread I copied mine off of. So here' s the thread you need to go through to see how to do this. http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/threads/300-gallon-sa-ce-community-build-thread.423425/
I built my tank entirely out of what I read in JC1119's build thread. It's very thorough, well documented.
My build thread is a quick description and a bunch of pics. It doesn't explain what I did, why I did it, as well as the build thread I copied mine off of. So here' s the thread you need to go through to see how to do this. http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/threads/300-gallon-sa-ce-community-build-thread.423425/
I built my tank entirely out of what I read in JC1119's build thread. It's very thorough, well documented.
And later, you'll still get some air in the lines even with a gate valve--so you'll need to adjust the height of the main drain standpipes, too. That's discussed in my build thread because I had trouble with that... 
I wasn't assuming as much as I was suggesting a 1.5" standpipe should be sufficient drain AND matching that by applying the valve to his pump.
OP, I dont know specifically how you had it before but a trickle on your standpipe should not cause the swish that you had before.
1. Put a gate valve on your primary fully siphoned drain.
2. Second should be at a trickle. Ball valve is fine but you will leave that fully open now anyway
3. Assuming you don't have a DC pump, put a gate valve there too.
Now, you have all the controls in place to test and monitor the flow to get the equilibrium between sump and tank. You will tweak between the gate valve on the pump and the primary drain.
OP, I dont know specifically how you had it before but a trickle on your standpipe should not cause the swish that you had before.
1. Put a gate valve on your primary fully siphoned drain.
2. Second should be at a trickle. Ball valve is fine but you will leave that fully open now anyway
3. Assuming you don't have a DC pump, put a gate valve there too.
Now, you have all the controls in place to test and monitor the flow to get the equilibrium between sump and tank. You will tweak between the gate valve on the pump and the primary drain.
OP, I would suggest you follow through with whatever approach you go with. That is, dont just take bits of inputs provided and incorporate to something else, it will a pain for you and not get you to where you want to be. Keep at it man.
