hard plumbing vs soft plumbing

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
cockroach;4013818; said:
As for the example using the 212F, let's compare apples with apples. those parts, pipes and clamps are built for high performance and the cost relates to them. Most D.I.Y. stores (that I have been to) don't carry those kinds of clamps and hoses.

Any aftermarket auto parts store will carry these hose clamps, and at a price of SFA - I can get a pack of 10 for $5AUD, more than suitable for any aquarium setup. The hose clamps you buy from DIY stores are more than capable of an aquarium setup anyway, I mean theyre a hose clamp !
 
I was not questioning the purchasing of these parts as much as questioning the comparison of a 212F and a fish tank.
 
cockroach;4013818; said:
What do public aquariums use? I mean we are talking about bigger than normal setups here as this is MFK.

As for the example using the 212F, let's compare apples with apples. those parts, pipes and clamps are built for high performance and the cost relates to them. Most D.I.Y. stores (that I have been to) don't carry those kinds of clamps and hoses.

And on a saltwater setup? Which would be better? the saltwater humidity would severely rust clamps( as has happened in my setup).

Again just some thoughts from my side.
I commercially crab fished for more years than I want to think about, and I am paying for it now by way of a torn down, beat up body.
Been all the way up and down the west coast of North America, Alaska, The South Pacific...There is nothing more harsh on metals of any kind, than the repetitive, relentless pounding of the Ocean...the mist, the spray, and the motion...
I learned along time ago if you are going to wage a battle against water with metal, you better use stainless steel. Anything else is just a pile of rust/oxidation waiting to happen. You can get by at times, and certain applications with anodized aluminum, but once the hard coating wears off, add any kind of copper and you have a big battery, you'll get electrolosis and it turns to dust...

If you are trying to cut costs, it only makes good sense NOT to skimp on the hoseclamps...They are the Mechanical fastening devices, that allow you to make a non permanent connection...use STAINLESS STEEL!!!
Seems like this would be common sense but it isn't...When a 2" stainless hose clamp that you see, is of good quality, has some heft to it, has that shiny new nickel color and sells for $2.79 look no further...resist buying that 89 cent'r...it is JUNK, It will not tighten down evenly or with any kind of real pressure. It's going to twist apart, jump the slot and guess what??...RUST!! cheap mild steel with a low end zinc coating, is not stainless steel...

Not too sure which DIY store you shop at, the dollar store??! but every Home Depot, LOWES, etc. home improvement store I been to has good quality hardware...they have the crap too, if you do not know the difference, you'll buy that crap, try to save a buck, it will fail then you'll be back for the good stuff...

As far as automobile hoses and hose clamp being high performance, ehhh I would think that Stainless steel braided reinforced hoses with crimped on fittings that you use a spanner wrench on a threaded fitting to connect would be high performance...you know like Hydraulic hoses on heavy equipment? That would be high performance.

Water / Salt water= stainless hardware no brainer...

;)
 
cockroach;4013900; said:
I was not questioning the purchasing of these parts as much as questioning the comparison of a 212F and a fish tank.

You're right there is no comparison, the pressure in an automotive application is MUCH greater, therefore in our aquariums where the pressure is lower the hose clamps are that much less likely to fail.
 
Coming back to the original question, tube or pvc...
Hard to see how flow can increase using pvc of same diameter with 90 or 45 degree corners over tube with much more gradual if not perfectly round bends in it.
Used pvc initially on a 100G tank with 4 return-lines.
Was crap to do and it slowed down flow tremendous.
Went to clear tube, only the first part, pumps, valves is pvc. From there it's tube all the way to the outlets in the tank which are pvc again.
Water flow increased tremendously due to cutting out sharp bends.

What I also don't understand is the algea build up.
When I took away the pvc, there was a lot of gunk in there.
The same will happen in tubes, but tubes, you disconnect, take it off the tank and clean it... If you're a lazy person, you disconnect, cut new pieces and put them on. Cutting new pieces is easy with the old ones next to the new ones.
How are you going to do that with rigid pvc?

For me it's clear-tubes. Can see water flow, can check if anything got stuck inside, can clean them easily without bending my back and neck in 3 positions at the same time.
 
Welcome to MFK, enjoy yourself, there is alot here!...

I see you have actually "been there and done that"...
Anybody who has, knows exactly what you are saying

...talk about pain in the neck!!! I feel ya there bro!!;):D
 
Hello Zennzzo,
Thanks for the welcome.
I've mainly spent time on Aquaria Central. Not yet into very big tanks though I did get a lot of ideas over here.
Fully agree with your initial comment on the tubing.
For me it was one of those flash-bulb ideas after having spent hours and hours cutting stuff to measurement and always running short of that last 90' elbow.
Wait..let me get 2 pictures for the OP to get the idea...shows perfectly what we both agree on.
 
Well, curious to see the judge come out on it..
For me it's clear-tube, sure thing. Much cleaner setup and I can see what is happening.
I'll let everybody decide for themselves.
Cheers,
Luc
 
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