Heating 1300g system

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Jennilyn

Candiru
MFK Member
Jun 5, 2016
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How are you experts doing this?

I was thinking of doing a finnex heater controller with multiple heaters attached to a power strip but I read it only handles 800w.

How many watts do I need for 1300g.

Is there another option for a reliable heater controller?

Can I have 2x Finnex controllers setup at 800w a piece?

Thanks...
 
If you want to run an external controller with multiple submersible heaters, I think you should probably look into using the controller, such as the finnex, along with a relay that can pull the power directly from the outlet, rather than the power going through the controller. Basically, controller controls the relay, which then controls the heaters. This way the only current coming through the controller is the current it takes to close the contacts on the relay, which is a negligible amount.

Having said that, I'm sure there are others here that will chime in with a more efficient way of achieving what you want.
 
I would suggest a Ranco controller. Jehmco has a few options for higher watt setups.

http://www.jehmco.com/html/temperature_controller.html

I've been running 1,800 watts (six 300W Eheim Jager heaters) on their ETCI-2R controller on my 770G without any issues for about 6 years now. I have two power strips (each with 3 Eheims plugged into it) plugged into the Ranco ETCI-2R controller.

You'll just need to make sure you aren't overloading the circuit(s). You aren't supposed to regularly run more than 75% of a circuits max load. So that means no more than 1,800 watts on a 20 amp circuit and no more than 1,400 watts on a 15 amp. This is assuming 120V.

How cold does the room the tank is in get?
 
I would suggest a Ranco controller. Jehmco has a few options for higher watt setups.

http://www.jehmco.com/html/temperature_controller.html

I've been running 1,800 watts (six 300W Eheim Jager heaters) on their ETCI-2R controller on my 770G without any issues for about 6 years now. I have two power strips (each with 3 Eheims plugged into it) plugged into the Ranco ETCI-2R controller.

You'll just need to make sure you aren't overloading the circuit(s). You aren't supposed to regularly run more than 75% of a circuits max load. So that means no more than 1,800 watts on a 20 amp circuit and no more than 1,400 watts on a 15 amp. This is assuming 120V.

How cold does the room the tank is in get?

This was so helpful. Thanks!

The room does get really cold in the winter. In the 60s.

How much watts do you think I need to heat up this set up?
 
This was so helpful. Thanks!

The room does get really cold in the winter. In the 60s.

How much watts do you think I need to heat up this set up?

I think your best option would be to spend the money necessary to insulate the room and heat it with a space heater or an in-wall heater. Otherwise, you will need a lot of wattage and it will eat a huge hole in your electric bill.
 
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I'm gonna insultate the walls of the tank.

Another question...

Best to run 5 heaters to get to my watts I need

Or

2 heaters?
 
It's tough to say how many watts you'll need because a lot depends on how well you are able to insulate the tank. You will definitely want lids since a huge amount of heat would otherwise be lost if you had an open top.
I personally wouldn't go with less than 2 watts per gallon, so you would need the Ranco Temp controller that requires 2 dedicated circuits (two 15 amps circuits, would work, but two 20 amp circuits would be better).
But having said that, you may be better off heating the entire room if you are going to have multiple tanks running.
The room my tank is in is unheated. To give you and idea of what you might expect if you were to use electric aquarium heaters only: temps in my fish room get down into the low 50s during the coldest winter nights. During colder winter months, my heaters would come on for 5 or 6 hours per day to maintain 78F, which translates into around 325kWhrs per month. If your system is twice the size, you might expect to use double the amount of energy, so 650kWhrs per month. Multiply that by your cost per kWhr and you should have a ballpark estimate of what heating the tank may cost you.
I'm not sure what you pay for electricity, but I'm guessing you saw a pretty solid spike in your electric bill from running that 1.5HP blower for your fluidized filter. I think that spa air pump is way overkill; all you need is a nice consistent (fluidized) roll of the media...it doesn't need to be violently boiling. I know of people running only 50LPM of air through the same filter you have with success. A 50LPM pump would only pull around 50 watts, so you would be saving about 830 watts (or 600kWhrs per month). Using the more efficient/smaller pump should pay for itself in just a few months. If you are worried about 50LPM not being enough you can get a larger model and run air to different tanks if it ends up being too much.
Another thing to keep in mind is that if you decide not to heat the air in the room, when it gets down into the 60s, you'll be pumping that cold air into the fluidized filter, which will act like a giant chiller. I noticed that when I turned off my little air pump in my tank, the heaters would come on a lot less often. That might be something to keep in mind if you are trying to keep your heating/electric costs down. Designing a filter that won't act like a giant chiller in the winter may be the smart way to go.
Hope you are taking what I write as suggestions from someone who wants you to succeed as opposed to criticism. It sounds like you have big plans in the works and designing the system to run as efficiently as possible could save you hundreds, thousands or even tens of thousands depending on how long you have the setup running. Looking forward to seeing updates on your build! =)
 
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I'd insulate and heat the room and use a heat exchanger to condition room
 
It's tough to say how many watts you'll need because a lot depends on how well you are able to insulate the tank. You will definitely want lids since a huge amount of heat would otherwise be lost if you had an open top.
I personally wouldn't go with less than 2 watts per gallon, so you would need the Ranco Temp controller that requires 2 dedicated circuits (two 15 amps circuits, would work, but two 20 amp circuits would be better).
But having said that, you may be better off heating the entire room if you are going to have multiple tanks running.
The room my tank is in is unheated. To give you and idea of what you might expect if you were to use electric aquarium heaters only: temps in my fish room get down into the low 50s during the coldest winter nights. During colder winter months, my heaters would come on for 5 or 6 hours per day to maintain 78F, which translates into around 325kWhrs per month. If your system is twice the size, you might expect to use double the amount of energy, so 650kWhrs per month. Multiply that by your cost per kWhr and you should have a ballpark estimate of what heating the tank may cost you.
I'm not sure what you pay for electricity, but I'm guessing you saw a pretty solid spike in your electric bill from running that 1.5HP blower for your fluidized filter. I think that spa air pump is way overkill; all you need is a nice consistent (fluidized) roll of the media...it doesn't need to be violently boiling. I know of people running only 50LPM of air through the same filter you have with success. A 50LPM pump would only pull around 50 watts, so you would be saving about 830 watts (or 600kWhrs per month). Using the more efficient/smaller pump should pay for itself in just a few months. If you are worried about 50LPM not being enough you can get a larger model and run air to different tanks if it ends up being too much.
Another thing to keep in mind is that if you decide not to heat the air in the room, when it gets down into the 60s, you'll be pumping that cold air into the fluidized filter, which will act like a giant chiller. I noticed that when I turned off my little air pump in my tank, the heaters would come on a lot less often. That might be something to keep in mind if you are trying to keep your heating/electric costs down. Designing a filter that won't act like a giant chiller in the winter may be the smart way to go.
Hope you are taking what I write as suggestions from someone who wants you to succeed as opposed to criticism. It sounds like you have big plans in the works and designing the system to run as efficiently as possible could save you hundreds, thousands or even tens of thousands depending on how long you have the setup running. Looking forward to seeing updates on your build! =)

Bro you are amazing!! Ty!

I'll be definitely coving the tank as well as both the 150g sumps. Eventually the fish room with be sealed off and the room will be enclosed and running a space heater is a great idea!

I agree the spa blower is overkill. I run the spa blower on a timer. On the new system I'll be running a more efficient air pump.

I can not thank you enough for taking the time to answer this thread.
 
I think your best option would be to spend the money necessary to insulate the room and heat it with a space heater or an in-wall heater. Otherwise, you will need a lot of wattage and it will eat a huge hole in your electric bill.
Bro you are amazing!! Ty!

I'll be definitely coving the tank as well as both the 150g sumps. Eventually the fish room with be sealed off and the room will be enclosed and running a space heater is a great idea!

I agree the spa blower is overkill. I run the spa blower on a timer. On the new system I'll be running a more efficient air pump.

I can not thank you enough for taking the time to answer this thread.

Lol, I mentioned that before and you ignored it.
 
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