Heating for 200 gallon
- Thread starter BigFish
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akskirmishQuote:
Originally Posted by bbrtmad
And what happens when your away and that one heater fails?
just think if one of your heaters malfuntions and kills all your fish by heating up to much
what if your glass tank bust right now
it will just happen buddy
Originally Posted by bbrtmad
And what happens when your away and that one heater fails?
just think if one of your heaters malfuntions and kills all your fish by heating up to much
what if your glass tank bust right now
it will just happen buddy
fishfobia;2504797; said:akskirmishQuote:
Originally Posted by bbrtmad
And what happens when your away and that one heater fails?
just think if one of your heaters malfuntions and kills all your fish by heating up to much
what if your glass tank bust right now
it will just happen buddy
Nothing-
My tanks doubled walled for a reason-
The outer wall of my tank is on a sensor-If tank heats up too much-Chiller kicks on.....
But this isn't about my tank.
fishfobia;2504797; said:akskirmishQuote:
Originally Posted by bbrtmad
And what happens when your away and that one heater fails?
just think if one of your heaters malfuntions and kills all your fish by heating up to much
what if your glass tank bust right now
it will just happen buddy
Normally if one fails it will just stop working completely which is why the second one is there so there is still a source for heat. also on bigger tanks it is near impossible for a single heater to over heat a tank. Also glass tanks normally dont just bust. There is a reason for it, setup unlevel, big rocks shift and hit glass, manufactures defects (normally busts after\during first fill), etc.
Back on topic I run 2 300W on my 220.
The reason for splitting the difference of the wattage necessary to efficiently heat 'X' amount of water is to safeguard against the possible failure of the heater in the 'on' position. Failure of one of two or three in the 'off' position, although serious, is usually not as critical because room temp. will usually assist in keeping the tank warm. (most fish can survive cooler temps. longer than high temps.) In either event, it will give the aquarist more time to recognize that there is a problem before it becomes catastrophic. Temp. controllers can also aid in keeping a failed heater in a multi-heater setup from destroying your fish. Most calculate using approx. 5wpg. Also multi-heater setups in large long or deep tanks usually distribute the heat better preventing excessively cold or hot spots. I know some who have been successful w/ a single 800w titanium heater but I would rather have 2 - 350w or 3 - 250w running thru a controller for safety & redundancy. Pre-heating the water in a sump before going to the main is another way to achieve even heat distribution. I've run thru a number of different heaters but right now I'm satisfied w/ 2 - 250w heaters running thru a D58 controller from Won Bros. JMPO, "T"