Hello - New to the forum
- Thread starter Lady K.
- Start date
Hey Lady, welcome to MFK, and glad to hear you are getting back into the saltie world!!
First off, sit down and get comfortable, this might take a minute.
Ok so when it comes to rocks, I don't know where you got that ratio either (of 1 lb. of rock per 10 gal. of water), lol. Mmm - No. Most often, and especially when relying on the live rock to be your main source of filtration, you are going to want to balance your rock more proportionately with figures more along 8-12 pounds of rock per 1 gallon of water. However, weight isn't always the most important thing with rock, as sometimes you can have massive pieces that are less dense than smaller ones. This usually is going to vary depending on their origin.
The most important factor with live rock is surface space, as we all know that what makes this rock living, is the micro/macro-organisms, algae, plants, and bacteria which take up residence within its porous structures, and therefore, naturally, the more rock you have the more filtering and detritus eating animals are able to be supported.
Overall pounds are used because that is how they are calculated for retail cost, and for the most part, are pretty accurate when it comes to size, however I have a large table-top piece of rock that weighs 1.5 lbs less than a much smaller grapefruit sized rock. Soo, look not only for the weight but also for how much rock you are actually getting for that.
When it comes to the filters, there are several types of media which will forever produce varying opinions, however, they can all work well if you know how to maximize their potential and you are an active maintenance person, keeping a regular and strict schedule. Some of the better options for those who don't have the time or give-a-crap to spend a lot of time on the cleaning, is sumps and canisters as they are extremely versatile, when it comes to customization for different tank needs, take on the bulk of the filtering, and do not require as much (though still regular) cleaning.
Bio balls are great but like mentioned, they can sky rocket some of the more dangerous parameters if not kept in check. An alternative to the plastic balls, bio bale, etc. would be as mentioned, live rock rubble, which you can throw in some base rubble with it too which will seed quickly.
As far as what you intend to keep in your new tank, there are only a few eels which would fare well in a 55 and I'm sorry, but no sharks would be suitable for that size, it is simply far too small.
Additionally, figuring out the stock can wait, seeing as you just started the cycle, so in the mean time, focus on your filters and your cycle and make sure that everything is balancing, and then we can get into the stock-choosing. When it comes to mixing your water in advance, unless it was in a sealed container, I wouldn't suggest keeping it too long as you will be exposing it to insects, their eggs, bacteria, mold/mildew spores, and algae.
When you purchase seawater from retail stores, their water has been finely filtered and sealed, so it's shelf life is significantly longer. However, if you were interested in pre-mixing water to allow for dechlorination, then you would be fine keeping it for a few days in a garbage can like that with air stones, and turning the water a few times a day. But really you only need to allow a minimum of 24 hours for that, so making more than you were going to use that week probably would not be the best route to go since you do not have a system for holding water at this point.
All in all though I think once you start researching and brushing up on the old and the new, then you will have a great experience again, but yea.. No sharks in that tank ok.
Let us know if you have any more questions.
-Em
First off, sit down and get comfortable, this might take a minute.
Ok so when it comes to rocks, I don't know where you got that ratio either (of 1 lb. of rock per 10 gal. of water), lol. Mmm - No. Most often, and especially when relying on the live rock to be your main source of filtration, you are going to want to balance your rock more proportionately with figures more along 8-12 pounds of rock per 1 gallon of water. However, weight isn't always the most important thing with rock, as sometimes you can have massive pieces that are less dense than smaller ones. This usually is going to vary depending on their origin.
The most important factor with live rock is surface space, as we all know that what makes this rock living, is the micro/macro-organisms, algae, plants, and bacteria which take up residence within its porous structures, and therefore, naturally, the more rock you have the more filtering and detritus eating animals are able to be supported.
Overall pounds are used because that is how they are calculated for retail cost, and for the most part, are pretty accurate when it comes to size, however I have a large table-top piece of rock that weighs 1.5 lbs less than a much smaller grapefruit sized rock. Soo, look not only for the weight but also for how much rock you are actually getting for that.
When it comes to the filters, there are several types of media which will forever produce varying opinions, however, they can all work well if you know how to maximize their potential and you are an active maintenance person, keeping a regular and strict schedule. Some of the better options for those who don't have the time or give-a-crap to spend a lot of time on the cleaning, is sumps and canisters as they are extremely versatile, when it comes to customization for different tank needs, take on the bulk of the filtering, and do not require as much (though still regular) cleaning.
Bio balls are great but like mentioned, they can sky rocket some of the more dangerous parameters if not kept in check. An alternative to the plastic balls, bio bale, etc. would be as mentioned, live rock rubble, which you can throw in some base rubble with it too which will seed quickly.
As far as what you intend to keep in your new tank, there are only a few eels which would fare well in a 55 and I'm sorry, but no sharks would be suitable for that size, it is simply far too small.
Additionally, figuring out the stock can wait, seeing as you just started the cycle, so in the mean time, focus on your filters and your cycle and make sure that everything is balancing, and then we can get into the stock-choosing. When it comes to mixing your water in advance, unless it was in a sealed container, I wouldn't suggest keeping it too long as you will be exposing it to insects, their eggs, bacteria, mold/mildew spores, and algae.
When you purchase seawater from retail stores, their water has been finely filtered and sealed, so it's shelf life is significantly longer. However, if you were interested in pre-mixing water to allow for dechlorination, then you would be fine keeping it for a few days in a garbage can like that with air stones, and turning the water a few times a day. But really you only need to allow a minimum of 24 hours for that, so making more than you were going to use that week probably would not be the best route to go since you do not have a system for holding water at this point.
All in all though I think once you start researching and brushing up on the old and the new, then you will have a great experience again, but yea.. No sharks in that tank ok.
Let us know if you have any more questions. -Em
**, you are going to want to balance your rock more proportionately with figures more along 8-12 pounds of rock per 1 gallon of water.**
Wow! Even if its not a reef tank and I'm not depending on the live rock for primary filtration? I guess I need to go back to the fish store <GRIN>
**Bio balls are great but like mentioned, they can sky rocket some of the more dangerous parameters if not kept in check. An alternative to the plastic balls, bio bale, etc. would be as mentioned, live rock rubble, which you can throw in some base rubble with it too which will seed quickly.**
Then mixing the two (bioballs and LR rubble) should be ok? I already have the bioballs in there... or should I scoop out the BB and replace it all with rubble?
**no sharks would be suitable for that size, it is simply far too small. **
That's what I think as well, but trying to tell my hubby that is another story.
I guess the storing of the water just won't work like I thought it might... oh well... its not that hard to mix it up when needed.
Thank you so much for the indepth answers... I look forward to reading more!
Wow! Even if its not a reef tank and I'm not depending on the live rock for primary filtration? I guess I need to go back to the fish store <GRIN>
**Bio balls are great but like mentioned, they can sky rocket some of the more dangerous parameters if not kept in check. An alternative to the plastic balls, bio bale, etc. would be as mentioned, live rock rubble, which you can throw in some base rubble with it too which will seed quickly.**
Then mixing the two (bioballs and LR rubble) should be ok? I already have the bioballs in there... or should I scoop out the BB and replace it all with rubble?
**no sharks would be suitable for that size, it is simply far too small. **
That's what I think as well, but trying to tell my hubby that is another story.
I guess the storing of the water just won't work like I thought it might... oh well... its not that hard to mix it up when needed.
Thank you so much for the indepth answers... I look forward to reading more!
Wow! Even if its not a reef tank and I'm not depending on the live rock for primary filtration? I guess I need to go back to the fish store <GRIN>
Even though live rock is most readily associated with reef tanks, it serves far more purposes than just providing base structures for corals. Filtering your water, as we already covered, is another huge advantage of live rock, not to mention that most, if not all the fish you will find readily available - and suitable for your tank, are reef fish, utilizing live rock as their homes, and when breeding, stashing their eggs in the saftey of it's crevices. Other inverts and crustaceans also rely on live rock for shelter. What filter exactly are you using? If you have other means of adequate filtration, then you won't require as much rock, however, you would still want significantly more than your current 6 lbs. or your fish will not have security and shelter which can induce stress and weaken their immune systems, making them susceptible to infection and disease.
Then mixing the two (bioballs and LR rubble) should be ok? I already have the bioballs in there... or should I scoop out the BB and replace it all with rubble?
Mixing the two is fine, though almost unecessary, as the rock rubble will replace, more efficiently, the balls' purpose. However, if you wish to keep them in, then just make sure that no less than once a month, you flush out the collected debris in the filter and clean the balls. The rock is self sustaining, and will not need to be cleaned - as doing that can actually significantly decrease it's filtering capacity if significant life is removed.
That's what I think as well, but trying to tell my hubby that is another story.
Invite him to join MFK. I will be more than happy to enlighten him as to why doing so would mean certain death for any shark you brought home.
I guess the storing of the water just won't work like I thought it might... oh well... its not that hard to mix it up when needed.
Bummer I know, lol. We all would love to take short cuts sometimes, but for some things - like storing large amounts of water like that, there is simply no sterile and efficient way to do that without the proper (and expensive) units that requires.
Thank you so much for the indepth answers... I look forward to reading more!
Not a problem at all, anytime.
Notes in PINK
Update - I now have about 26# of live rock. I also now have 2 damsels, a puffer and an eel. I have been testing since the beginning of setting up the tank and there has been 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite. (the live rock kicked right in) The nitrate is now up to 20. My new question is - at what point should I do a water change (10-20%). I realize the lower the nitrate the better, but what is the max? I don't want to wait until I get to the max level, I just want to know what that number is...
Thanks
Thanks
i usually avoid anything higher then 30ppm for a fish only tank. But water changes should be done every week, even if your water looks good. This is just a way to replenish minerals in the water, as well as removing toxins. Making sure your source of water is clean, IE RO water, being my preferred is going to prevent toxins from being added into the tank, just leaving these levels to climb with fish waste etc.........
My rule of thumb for rock is the more the better lol. I like my tanks to be about 2lbs per gallon never going below 1 lbs per gallon.
My rule of thumb for rock is the more the better lol. I like my tanks to be about 2lbs per gallon never going below 1 lbs per gallon.
sweeTang21;2346095; said:
We won't be doing anything else for a bit (adding or subtracting)... I want to let things settle into a comfortable routine for maintainace before I go changing a bunch of things.
I'm concerned you never had a NitrITE spike in your tank !
Or a Ammonia spike!
Were is your CYCLE!!!
Oh and an official HELLO and welcome!
Or a Ammonia spike!
Were is your CYCLE!!!
Oh and an official HELLO and welcome!
The adding of live rock slowly is not your best plan unless the live rock comes from a well known source and well cured!
This adding slowly will give you spikes in your levels each time you add!
You should (ideally) add all your live sand and live rock at the begining!
And you can pile your rock tightly on one side or the bottom or even in the back to make room for the fish!
Here is one guys live rock pile who has done well!http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=180502
This adding slowly will give you spikes in your levels each time you add!
You should (ideally) add all your live sand and live rock at the begining!
And you can pile your rock tightly on one side or the bottom or even in the back to make room for the fish!
Here is one guys live rock pile who has done well!http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=180502
RO water is Revers Osmosis. Its a way to purify it basically. Well water is usually hard, which is what you want, but don't want some chemicals and toxins that can come with it. RO Systems remove these toxins. a good RO system will give you levels of zero across the board, meaning that clean water is being added. Tap water will contain high levels of phosphate, silicate, nitrate, which will all lead to an algae breakout.
Agreed that you should add all the rock that you want right away. If you want 15lbs in a 30 gallon tank, thats fine, but i wouldn't rely on that to be a good filter. this just means you'll need to setup the wet dry if you didn't already plan on it. If you did, then forget about that mass of rock and build your wet dry to work for your application.
Agreed that you should add all the rock that you want right away. If you want 15lbs in a 30 gallon tank, thats fine, but i wouldn't rely on that to be a good filter. this just means you'll need to setup the wet dry if you didn't already plan on it. If you did, then forget about that mass of rock and build your wet dry to work for your application.
