help ..1ST DIY FILTER BUILD

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C

CAaddict

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Jul 27, 2010
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UK, Birmingham
iv been lookin thru the stikkies and i am confused bout some of the info iv read.

i wana try a sump. ( ive built the sump. i have tu fix alil bit) but i want it attached to my new 2 me but old clearseal 30"L x 15"H x 12"W i under stand the overflow part of it but...

what do you think is better for me 1) weir
2) drilled tank.
a weir only skims the surface water. wudnt it be better to the lower level of water?

but what im fully confused about is what sized pipe ill need , and return pump ill need i.e. GPH or if a certain wattage is prefered or better.

also will i need a UV light. would it be better to use 1?
 
the sump i have is almost 2foot i think. its gt space for a refuguim. and i need to move the baffles about for space to get sponges/media in
 
Drilled tank I hear is way better and easier but have 2 diy pvc overflows and they work fine. Size pipe you need depends on how much the pump can pump. The lower the wattage the better on pumps since they are running 24/7. You dont really need a uv but it can only help.
 
i no that UV can b expensive. must ill prob eventually get it lol..
i need the water to be pumped bout 3foot at the most. what is the recomended gph pump yu think i cud get away with ........
 
A drilled tank is much easier as no hang on overflow means it is one thing less to go wrong. Plus a drilled tank never needs the syphon started and the flow only stops when the pumps stop, the syphon cannot be broken like in an overflow box after a power cut.

A weir or tall inlet tube is best in the event of pump failure. Should that happen a weir will only allow water to flow into the system until it gets to the comb and it is no longer flowing over.
You do not need non-return valves on the return lines if you design your inlet properly. All it takes is a little planning.
For example, I have a home made spraybar that is above the level of my weir. In the event of pump failure the water will only flow back until it gets below the weir. This means that I do not need non return valves like most people seem to need. Again one less thing to go wrong.
Non-return valves can fail and over time they get covered in gunk that prevents proper operation, this means servicing or replacement. Both are time consuming and a pain in the ass.

If this is at all unclear please let me know and I will post pics to explain better as I am a little tired so it may not come across properly.

The main problem with a drilled tank is if it is not pre-drilled and you have to get it done. It is risky and one mistake on the last hole could crack the tank rendering it useless to you and you still have to fork out for a new tank. Most glaziers will not guarantee the tanks safety if you ask them to drill holes for you.
If you get a tank custom made then it is the manufacturers problem.
 
thats usefull. but obv it will be alot easier with afew picture tu look at .. so if yu dnt mind ...pictures please :)
 
Apologies, I was quite tired by then. It needs fine tuning, i.e. made with proper 45 degree pieces instead of bent pipe. It works but I had to use plumbers tape to make pipe fit snuggly into the 90 degree bend because bending the pipe misshaped the tube end slightly. But you get the idea.
I do not need non return valves on here because of this, I know it works (even though it is a quick DIY job) as I have switched both my pumps off and left them. I do it every water change as well.
Here you go.
DSC06328.JPG
 
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