How are you knowing you are giving it the correct temperatures so it can thermoregulate and digest food properly. How is your container/viv etc set up... explain? Having somewhere that gets walked by really should make no difference, it should have hides so it can't be seen/see you if it doesn't want to anyway. What is your feeding schedule (past), you probably should have written it all down anyway.
Help, baby corn snake just threw up
- Thread starter Nabbig2
- Start date
Well, I'm no expert but I only had one incident of a snake throwing up. It was my red tail years ago when she was young. I would definitely take the snake to the vet & have a fecal done. I remember she turned out having to have daily shots that I administered. I had some previous experience giving shots & my mom was a nurse that may have helped sway the vet. I have heard others say they had to return to the vet for the shots so I don't know. In my opinion, if you value the well being/life of your pet have a fecal done.
loconorc;1205877; said:
Wrong.
Hungry snakes will take food too big for them, which is why you have the rule no bigger than the width of the snake..
Food too big for them is a main reason for regurgitation.
Big tank and one hide? Yeah that could be part of the problem. Alot of traffic? Yeah that too can be a problem.
Aslong as the warm area is DEFINATELY warm enough, then you would just need to place a hide in the cool area, which we did say to do but you just shrugged it off, until you could afford all the things to keep your temps in check. Its very important.
My Royal reguarly moves from one hide to another to thermoregulate once it's eaten, and its worth thinking about. Maybe your corn needed to cool down, but felt threatened going into the wide open space with no hide; and if a predator came by he wouldn't be able to move away quick enough 'cause of the food inside him.
My Cali King ate 3 fuzzies (he usually takes this once a week) but this time regurged two. I had to urgently move his enclosure a few hours after he'd fed, and although I was careful, I feel this was the reason. It proves how secure snakes really do need to feel, nevermind whilst eating/digesting and shedding. He's since eaten fine.
So leave him 3-4 days since he regurged then try one pinky, put another hide in there for him, make sure hes not swallowing substrate, and turn the lights off and try to avoid traffic round his enclosure. I hope this helps
Forgot to say once he's eating ok it may be worth feeding a small pink every 5/6 days.. baby snakes need feeding more often than adults, though it really depends on the size of your snake, and its definately not worth thinking about till he's eating fine for abit.
Jessica Dring;1220834; said:Wrong.
Hungry snakes will take food too big for them, which is why you have the rule no bigger than the width of the snake..
Food too big for them is a main reason for regurgitation.
Big tank and one hide? Yeah that could be part of the problem. Alot of traffic? Yeah that too can be a problem.
Aslong as the warm area is DEFINATELY warm enough, then you would just need to place a hide in the cool area, which we did say to do but you just shrugged it off, until you could afford all the things to keep your temps in check. Its very important.
My Royal reguarly moves from one hide to another to thermoregulate once it's eaten, and its worth thinking about. Maybe your corn needed to cool down, but felt threatened going into the wide open space with no hide; and if a predator came by he wouldn't be able to move away quick enough 'cause of the food inside him.
My Cali King ate 3 fuzzies (he usually takes this once a week) but this time regurged two. I had to urgently move his enclosure a few hours after he'd fed, and although I was careful, I feel this was the reason. It proves how secure snakes really do need to feel, nevermind whilst eating/digesting and shedding. He's since eaten fine.
So leave him 3-4 days since he regurged then try one pinky, put another hide in there for him, make sure hes not swallowing substrate, and turn the lights off and try to avoid traffic round his enclosure. I hope this helps
Forgot to say once he's eating ok it may be worth feeding a small pink every 5/6 days.. baby snakes need feeding more often than adults, though it really depends on the size of your snake, and its definately not worth thinking about till he's eating fine for abit.
What do you mean I shrugged off about a cool area? He has a hiding spot opposite the side of the heat lamp, and that's where he hangs out.
Anyway, I'm trying to get him to eat, I managed to get some smaller pinkies. He's not interested though.
Nabbig2;1223847; said:
He needs a hide on each side. Because most snakes will choose security over temperature if they have too. Put a few hides in, leave him for a week without handleing or offering any food then try him.
It worked with my boa. You'd be suprised how much handling and such can get them down sometimes. Once you've put some more hides in and he gets confident in his new arranging, he will more than likely take it.
Remember to try give him one largish hide in the middle, and a small one he fits SNUGLY into on each side.
This is until you can monitor the temps
loconorc;1224723; said:
Again not true.
If he only has ONE hide on one side of the tank. This will be the reason hes staying there..
It's also worth considering that may be why he regurged: He had to stay in the cool area because that was the only place with a hide, and it was too cold for him to digest it there. Just from you saying he only hangs out there its worth thinking about. Just put more hides in for him mate.
