Help converting a 10 gallon freshwater into a Nano saltwater

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
There are so many different strains and species of denitrifyng bacteria and micro fuana that they have no distiguishing names. One thing they do know is they exsist and develop to match their surroundings. Because their are so many different types it is impossible to determine which type can with stand dramatic enviormental shifts. There are some whom claim to have done exactly what you ask - add salt bam cycled. Others say it's impossible. Me - I don't have any answer other than it would be experimental.

Saltwater filtration is cheifly Biological - the Live Rock is the filter, powerheads move the water across the rocks filtering the nitrogen cycle. HOBs would aid in the oxygen exchange however surface turbulance does this as well. HOBs generally aren't built to withstand the corrosive nature of salt, calcium, and magnesium. IMO a HOB Skimmer is better suited for your needs. Mind you salt doesn't evaportate so everytime you top off the tank with freshwater to achieve stable salinity your refreshing Hydrogen and Oxygen.

Heres are few things you got wrong -

Denitrifying bacteria doesn't thrieve in high flow areas - that would be the ammonia and nitrite bacterias that like alot of dissolved oxygen. The denitrifyers live in the sand and deep within the rock viod of alot of 02.

Man Made LR is called Aquacultured - it is basically cement painted purple. Some fish stores make their own in house while others drop theres in the ocean for a few years.
Curing is the process of removing dead and dying organisms from any rock type prior to tank introduction.

Diatoms - silicate/phosphate resins remove the diatoms food source from the water - they do not prevent ICK.
 
There are so many different strains and species of denitrifyng bacteria and micro fuana that they have no distiguishing names. One thing they do know is they exsist and develop to match their surroundings. Because their are so many different types it is impossible to determine which type can with stand dramatic enviormental shifts. There are some whom claim to have done exactly what you ask - add salt bam cycled. Others say it's impossible. Me - I don't have any answer other than it would be experimental.

Saltwater filtration is cheifly Biological - the Live Rock is the filter, powerheads move the water across the rocks filtering the nitrogen cycle. HOBs would aid in the oxygen exchange however surface turbulance does this as well. HOBs generally aren't built to withstand the corrosive nature of salt, calcium, and magnesium. IMO a HOB Skimmer is better suited for your needs. Mind you salt doesn't evaportate so everytime you top off the tank with freshwater to achieve stable salinity your refreshing Hydrogen and Oxygen.

Heres are few things you got wrong -

Denitrifying bacteria doesn't thrieve in high flow areas - that would be the ammonia and nitrite bacterias that like alot of dissolved oxygen. The denitrifyers live in the sand and deep within the rock viod of alot of 02.

Man Made LR is called Aquacultured - it is basically cement painted purple. Some fish stores make their own in house while others drop theres in the ocean for a few years.
Curing is the process of removing dead and dying organisms from any rock type prior to tank introduction.

Diatoms - silicate/phosphate resins remove the diatoms food source from the water - they do not prevent ICK.
Thanx a lot for the info. I've been reading and rereading the nano reef article so I can try to understand it fully before even thinking of stepping forward toward actually setting up a tank. So I really appreciate you helping me understand the basics of the bacteria. I just recently started understanding about the denitrifying bacteria(like last night.lol!) and how it's better to make the level of the live sand as high as possible. According to the article a height of more than 4 inches would be reccomended. I do have a question though about some things that you said. First I'll go with the diatom powder filters. I thought that was their claim to fame the ability to polish water due to the fact they filter smaller matter than even polishing pads. I thought it was also said in their description that they have the ability to specifically filter out ick from the aquarium, or did I misunderstand something? The other question is does that mean you need a specialized power head for saltwater since as far as I've understood filters and power heads ability all work on the same basic principal and use the same basic propeller design including the metal used in it's construction. Also I understand the curing process and why, I just saw a couple of articles that claimed basically Aquacultured rock doesn't need to be cured. Is the info that they're giving incorrect and just a ploy to charge more for live rock? Also what do you think about dry rock, which was suggested earlier? I was leaning more toward that as a safe alternative to the live rock. Also just so you understand nothing I'm saying is me trying to counter what your saying, just a genuine attempt at understanding the reef setup as best as possible before I start one. I know it's hard to tell in a post if someone's being combative or non-receptive that's why I'm trying to clarify my intentions. I truly don't want anything, but a good initial understanding of reef setups, Thanx.
 
What is the 1st thing in the ICK med instructions ? - Remove the media, why because resins and carbon absorb the meds and particle pads turn into egg cyst breeding grounds.
External bacterias just exsist - it is usually stress coupled with poor water conditions and or diet that lowers the fishes immune system making them suseptable to ICK. The only non- med piece of equipment I know off that might control Ick would be a UV sterilzer.

HOB motors are located on the bottom of the filter box seperated buy a small rubber O ring gasket. The water flow and whatevers in it slam right down on to the o-ring and magnet. For salt the motors should be preferably horizontal or at least on top of the powerhead or filter box. These are designed for minimal contact of settling particles.

Aquacultured rock can be very much alive if it were sitting in the ocean or tanks connected inline with oceanic life. However some reputable dealers could seperate and seed these rocks with fish pee in a bottle. You'd have to inquire with the dealer.

The cycling process with LR usually kills off everything anyways in 6-8 weeks. Cycling with cured LR is faster if you can buy it this way. Using just base/dry rock will do nothing to jump start ammonia it would have to be done with food or pee and this can take along time.

If you can keep a Payara - salts a walk in the park - trust me.
 
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