HELP ME I NEED EXPERT HELP BACTERIAL INFESTATION

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It seems that binox is a mix of nitrofurazone and salt and other mystery ingredients.
The problem is that nitro kills both gramme positive and gramme negative bacteria, and salt adds to that so it will also kill your filter. The makers don't say it won't ( a good clue that it will, otherwise you KNOW they would trumpet about that)
It frustrates no end that manufacturers of fish meds are not obliged to list all the ingredients in their stuff.
 
I added zeolite not to remove just ammonia I havet ruled out water quality out of the tap.I added lots of carbon and a bit of zeolite.I will remove the zeolite when I get home .I tested the water this morning ammonia was at 0 n. Zeolite will absorb other things besides ammonia
 
imo the zeolite is useful here, as it removes but doesn't add.
I think you are on the way to beating your problem.
 
calgaryflames;4803695; said:
i have seen this clear poop before when i had a ph crash actualy in two of my tanks it happened.i think alot of the time like 99% clear poop means stress.i used to think parasites and freak out but skynoch gave me the best advice ever on that subject.

Guys, discounting the problem with the rays - I hope they pull through- what an interesting read this thread is, with a lot of usefull info.

Not meaning to derail in the slightest, could someone please point me in the direction of that "99% clear poop means stress" issue?

Thank You

Miguel
 
I think people who see clear poop are actually seeing the intestinal lining being shed due to parasitic infestation. I dealt with this issue on several occasions with tropheus, an african cichlid that is prone to bloat.

I have very little experience with treating rays, but lots of experience with tropheus. :)
 
Fish and rays are totally different things.rays are not prone to things that fish are,well not very easy.rays are extremely tough creatures.
 
calgaryflames;4805906; said:
Fish and rays are totally different things.rays are not prone to things that fish are,well not very easy.rays are extremely tough creatures.

Oh I understand that perfectly. I was responding to Miguel. Sorry for sidetracking. :)
 
DavidW;4805322; said:
The best philosophy imo is to remove things, not add. Prime etc convert ammonia to ammonium, but you are still adding a chemical (Principal Ingredients: Bisulfites and hydrosulfites, aqueous solution, buffered at pH 8, with ameliorating ingredients. Reducing agents.)
If you have an ammonia reading then I guess you over-cleaned the filtration. It should catch up soon, but in the meantime, change water until you have a zero reading.
The reason I was able to successfully breed discus and then rays was because i changed water obsessively. sometimes 50% twice per day. By doing this you also dilute bacterial problems and remove other unseen organics.
I definitely agree that if you are able to do the amount of waterchanges throughout the day at that level then this is the best method to do but with a higher stocked tank, no hotwater left over after the kids and girlfriend are done with showers,laundry, dishes ect.. and with the hours I keep at work this would not be possible at times and I feel the rays would benefit more from the prime added to the tank instead of fluctuating levels of ammonia in a tank. Everyones situation will be different.
DavidW;4805482; said:
It seems that binox is a mix of nitrofurazone and salt and other mystery ingredients.
The problem is that nitro kills both gramme positive and gramme negative bacteria, and salt adds to that so it will also kill your filter. The makers don't say it won't ( a good clue that it will, otherwise you KNOW they would trumpet about that)
It frustrates no end that manufacturers of fish meds are not obliged to list all the ingredients in their stuff.
I have used binox in the past as well as nitrofurazone and neither had done any noticeable damage to my tanks bio from any readings I had taken with test kits after thier useage. If you go into treating your tank with a weak amount of bio then I could see this being a problem which in alot of situations this will be a problem as the tank that is being treated was probably neglected.
DavidW;4805534; said:
imo the zeolite is useful here, as it removes but doesn't add.
I think you are on the way to beating your problem.
I would go about this the other way as you are depleteing your bio of a food source and not allowing it to grow as quickly. The next thing is when do you safely remove the zeolite from your system?
Miguel;4805579; said:
Guys, discounting the problem with the rays - I hope they pull through- what an interesting read this thread is, with a lot of usefull info.

Not meaning to derail in the slightest, could someone please point me in the direction of that "99% clear poop means stress" issue?

Thank You

Miguel
I know with my rays when they are stressed by either bad water or tankmates the poop will become clear and stringy. I've never went further into the science of it I just know it happens and it will go back to normal in a day when the problem(s) are cleared.


For the most part the only thing my rays could not beat on thier own with clean water was gill flukes and even then with extra changes and a stoppage of pellet feeding my rays where at least looking for the most part normal until I could treat with prazi.
David has been talking for years about the benefit of clean water and just doing lots of waterchanges when a problem is not identified properly and for me this has also been the conclusion I have come up with and is the way I will continue to treat my rays. Just be sure to find out what the initial cause of your rays sickness would have been, let it be tankmates or bad watermanagement fix this situation and do alot of extra waterchanges and your ray will get better.
For those of you who notice problems only when doing waterchanges it's because your ph is not staying stable in your tank which goes back to bad watermanagement and there are ways to fix this also.
 
the henlei in my pup tank i cannot figure out what would make her almost die and flip over just like that.i found her just about dead.
the very first thing i did was take a water sample but didnt have enough time to do test because i know when a fish is upside down you dont have long.my first reaction
1.added more air pumps and flip the ray over
2.large water change
3.after i completed water change i did water test on the water sample i took before i did the change.ALL READINGS WERE OK normal and stable
4.salinity treatment to the tank 2lbs per 100gallons
5.this may sound crazy but once again i did a salinty shock to another ray.after water changes she was pretty much dead.I use pure salt dilute into 5 gallon pale with filter sock and air stone.probably 2lbs per 5 gallon pale of fresh very clean water that was pretreated for chlorine.I than scoped the henlei into the bucket put the airstone under her gills and observe her very carefully for 4-5 minutes to make sure she doesnt die or start freaking out.than carefully added her back into the tank.Her breathing increased alot (compared to before she was barely breathing and upside down,even after i flipped her over she had no control of herself) and now her body functions seem to return as if i flipped a switch from death mode to alive mode.I am certian this ray would have been dead without the heavy salt shock.I have done this before 3 times and never killed a ray yet.i cannot prove this method or i do not reccomend anybody try it but i swear it works if done correctly
 
but the main question still is in the air!! why was she almost dead in the first place? whats going on
i observed her hours before and she was eating fine.why did all those cichlids die and why did my other rays in a different tank start freaking out .all my rays were at some point in their life with those cichlids "and not the ones from the pet shop" these cichlids i had for over a year and were all extremley colorful and very healthy 5 of the cichlids are alive being medicated with marcyn and salt

i do have many tanks in the house and many different things do go on all day,but why so much at once.bacteria??? maybe a weaker form ,maybe i cultivated it myself by cross contamination.those cichlids that came from the pet shop that rotted away like they had columinaris were in a plastic rubber maid in my basement.My basement also contains a 1400 gallon tank that was cycling with those sevrums inside of it 6 feet away.possibly i contaminated that .
the sevrums lived in this tank for 2 weeks fine i removed them due to water quality issues new tank cycling "I DIDNT WANT TO LOOSE THE SEVRUMS THEY COST $100 EACH,red sevrums very nice fish" anyways the 1400 gallon was spiking ammonia and nitrite.I guess i chose the wrong fish to start to cycle a tank with.
what i did next was add them back into the ray tanks upstairs.maybe this was the mistake.the sevrums only lasted about 8 hours with the rays until i removed them because i seen a fungal looking growth on one of them around the nose.after i moved them then they all started to die off quickly within hours with swollen looking gills and nose holes.i just stressed them enough for what ever they had to take over and kill them just like that.
 
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