Help me pick a UV Sterilizer...

[terd ferguson]

I am battling a case of ich in my big tank. I lost a beautiful Green Terror due to this. I called him Humpy, he had the beginnings of a great hump at around 6". To head off something like this in the future (or another parasite problem), I'd like to get a UV Sterilizer.

I'd like for the experts here to help me choose the right one for my needs. First of all, my tank is 190 US Gallons with a 50 US Gallons wet/dry sump. The tank measures 60" wide x 24" deep x 30" tall and has a built in overflow box. The pump in the sump is a Quiet One 6000 (1500 gph). I also have a Magnum H.O.T. canister (250 gph, I got this for $20 when a lfs was closing) running. In addtion, I have an Emperor 400 (400 gph) going (I had this lying around, why not use it, right?). For additional water movement and aeration, I have two Penguin 1140 powerheads (300 gph each). I also have three 300 watt heaters (I had to buy an extra to get the temp up to treat the ich).

The stock list is:
1 12" Parachromis managuense male (Jaguar)
1 8" Parachromis managuense male
1 3" Parachromis managuense unsure of sex
1 13" Parachromis friedrichsthalii male (Freddy)
1 7" Parachromis loiselli female (Loiselli)
1 7" Amphilophus festae female (True Red Terror)
1 6" Aequidens rivulatus male (Gold Saum or False Green Terror)
2 6" Astronatus ocellatus (Tiger Oscars)
1 6" Synodontus eupterus (Featherfin Catfish)

I change 50% of the water twice per week. Water parameters are always excellent. The substrate is sand. I usually feed 3 or 4 times per day (a little less now during the ich fight). I am treating the ich with salt (1 1/2 teaspoons per gallon) and heat (88 degrees). I lost a Green Terror on day 3, but all other fish are doing much better and I expect a full recovery (this is day 5 of treatment).

So, with all that information, help me to pick out the UV Sterilizer that will best suit my needs. I don't want to put it inline because of my pump's high volume. I have a couple of 300 gph powerheads, one of which would probably run the UV Sterilizer. If there's anything else I've neglected to mention that would help you guys make a better determination, let me know and I'll provide it.

As always, thanks very much in advance for any and all help and/or suggestions. And thanks for this, the greatest fish forum on the interweb.

 

[terd ferguson]

More specifically, how many watts would be ideal for my tank? Is it a case with the UV Sterilizers that "more is better"? What is the best and/or most reliable brand? Cost is a consideration, but I will spend what I need to to insure my fish are healthy.

Thanks very much once again.

 

[squint]

I've been using UV since I got into the hobby and never had a case of ich. Quarantining new fish also probably helped. After trying various brands, I've settled on Aquaultraviolet.

For your tank, I'd say minimum 25W. 40 or 57W would be better. After the initial purchase, the only cost will be that of replacement bulbs. For example, if you look at prices, you'll find that a 57W bulb is only a few dollars more than a 25W, etc. That will help you find the best price point.

If you run UV on your tanks long enough and always quarantine new fish, you can actually eliminate ich from your tanks. Its population will dwindle over time because it can't effectively reproduce until the population is too small to sustain itself. Most people have latent ich in their tanks/fish so that a little stress results in an outbreak. I find that unacceptable, especially when a permanent solution is readily available.

 

[duke33]

I too have wondered about these. It is very expensive to treat large quantities of water when problems come up.

 

[terd ferguson]

I too have wondered about these. It is very expensive to treat large quantities of water when problems come up.

A box of salt and an extra heater is WAAAY cheaper than a UV sterilizer, lol.

I feel being proactive is better than being reactive when it comes to my fishes' health. I'd just rather not have any more surprises or risk losing a much loved fish (or fishes).

 

[duke33]

^^ True, wish salt treated everything. That's why I have'nt bought one yet. I still have'nt read enough proof of cost effectiveness. The best I've read is they control algae blooms more than anything. Seems like that would also kill good stuff.

 

[terd ferguson]

^^ True, wish salt treated everything. That's why I have'nt bought one yet. I still have'nt read enough proof of cost effectiveness. The best I've read is they control algae blooms more than anything. Seems like that would also kill good stuff.

Everything I've read says UV Sterilizers only kill what's floating in the water (what actually passes through the sterilizer). This wouldn't harm your beneficial bacteria colonies in your sump/filter/substrate. Besides killing free floating algea (not what's on your glass), they are excellent in killing disease causing microorganisms which is what I'm most interested in.

As to the cost effectiveness, I just lost a ~$50 fish to ich. Investing $150 in a good UV Sterilizer to prevent this from happening again (who knows how many more times) seems like a pretty good tradeoff.

 

[Toby_H]

I’m a huge fan of UVs as I feel they have been the solution to the common problems of Blue Dempseys falling ill to parasites (I’m trying to breed them now).

After 5 years of using them I am thoroughly convinced they can be used to prevent parasitic/bacterial problems in addition to preventing any algae blooms (causing cloudiness, not build up on surfaces within the tank). They will kill ‘good bacteria’ that passes through them but we all are well aware that good bacteria lives on surfaces, not in the water column. I would suggest turning them off during cycling but on an established tank this is not a concern at all.

For bigger lights I use Danner (20 or 40 W) and for smaller I use Turbo Twist (9 or 18 W). I’ve had 2+ of each brand in use for at least a year and am completely happy with both brands.

I rarely quarantine new fish and have seen ich break out in my UV’ed tanks because of this… but it rarely spreads beyond the new fish and is always gone within a day or two. The UV does not actually kill the ich, but it prevents spreading and along with proper filtration and maintenance it helps supply an optimal environment for the fish to recover himself, which in every case I’ve seen has happened quickly.

I used to quarantine, and I agree it is best… but since I have the Uvs anyway and my personal success rate with this method is 100%… I slack off most of the time…

I mentioned this in our local group too but… check Asian Tropical Fish II on Central Ave and Thomas St (1 mile East of Downtown). I bought my first Danner 20W there for $100 5 years ago.

I power mine at 10 gph per 1 W… and shoot for 1 W per 10 gallons… your system is 240 gallons… plus some displacement from décor… I’d say 20~25 W should work good… but yes UVs follow the general principal of filtration that ‘more is better’… so if you’re the overkill type move up to the 40 range…

I use HOT Magnum’s (250 gph) to power my 9 & 18 W units… Magnum 350s to power my 20 & 40 W units… I like the water polishers Magnum uses and have had luck with them lasting years… they have their bad points but work great for this application…

 

[terd ferguson]

I’m a huge fan of UVs as I feel they have been the solution to the common problems of Blue Dempseys falling ill to parasites (I’m trying to breed them now).

After 5 years of using them I am thoroughly convinced they can be used to prevent parasitic/bacterial problems in addition to preventing any algae blooms (causing cloudiness, not build up on surfaces within the tank). They will kill ‘good bacteria’ that passes through them but we all are well aware that good bacteria lives on surfaces, not in the water column. I would suggest turning them off during cycling but on an established tank this is not a concern at all.

For bigger lights I use Danner (20 or 40 W) and for smaller I use Turbo Twist (9 or 18 W). I’ve had 2+ of each brand in use for at least a year and am completely happy with both brands.

I rarely quarantine new fish and have seen ich break out in my UV’ed tanks because of this… but it rarely spreads beyond the new fish and is always gone within a day or two. The UV does not actually kill the ich, but it prevents spreading and along with proper filtration and maintenance it helps supply an optimal environment for the fish to recover himself, which in every case I’ve seen has happened quickly.

I used to quarantine, and I agree it is best… but since I have the Uvs anyway and my personal success rate with this method is 100%… I slack off most of the time…

I mentioned this in our local group too but… check Asian Tropical Fish II on Central Ave and Thomas St (1 mile East of Downtown). I bought my first Danner 20W there for $100 5 years ago.

I power mine at 10 gph per 1 W… and shoot for 1 W per 10 gallons… your system is 240 gallons… plus some displacement from décor… I’d say 20~25 W should work good… but yes UVs follow the general principal of filtration that ‘more is better’… so if you’re the overkill type move up to the 40 range…

I use HOT Magnum’s (250 gph) to power my 9 & 18 W units… Magnum 350s to power my 20 & 40 W units… I like the water polishers Magnum uses and have had luck with them lasting years… they have their bad points but work great for this application…

Hey, Toby, good to see you over here.

Thanks for the information. I just lost a Green Terror to ich and I thought for sure the Festae would be a gonner (she had it the worst), but she's turned out better than ever. The spots are pretty much gone, but I'll continue the treatment for a few more days. I'll get the UV Sterilizer right after Christmas.

I'll check out the Asian place, thanks for the tip. I bought a big Parachromis friedrichsthalii from him a few weeks ago.

How's my female JD doing? Did she drop some more yet? Thanks again for the advice and have a safe trip. Merry Christmas too.

 

[Toby_H]

Your female is doing great... last night I put a few tricks on her tank to encourage breeding. I’m going out of town tomorrow and have been discouraging breeding for several weeks before. I hope for her to give up the next batch of eggs by the first week of January, then she'll be ready to come home.

...and be careful with that Red Terror!!! She was my feature in the 'what fish do you regret getting rid of' thread.

For others reading, Terd has a beautiful female JD... and I had a nice looking female Red Terror... he wanted a female RT and I needed a high grade female JD, but only to make me a spawn or two... A little negotiating later and Terd became an official fish pimp when he rented out the JD’s loins for the price of one female RT...

The deals gone perfect... expect I've hung on to the female a little longer than I was supposed to but justa lil...