HELP My Cichlid tank busted this morning HELP!
- Thread starter rucus
- Start date
Hello, i am a "old school " fishkeeper, when i started keeping fish over 20 yrs ago, we did not know about the fishless cycle and these issues. I learned to start a tank with fish in it. I do not have fish loss or fish damage that is common when i do this. Over the years i have learned some simple techniques that seem to prevent the damage and fish loss. Basicly it boils down to waterchanges. I do RELIGOUS water changes DAILY to prevent the levels from becoming toxic,I do these water changes NO MATTER WHAT my test results read, even if the results are not high that day. it does not alter the cycling process and i have not found the fish to be damaged in any way. I have cycled my 6 foot tank, 75 gallon , 72 and 70 gallon tanks, each time i did it with 10-15 (or more ) juvie african cichlids in it, expensive fish, not the throw away type. I recommend the fishless cycle when possiable for other people but sometimes that is not possiable. I have wrote an article on it on another website, here is a except from it that article that I think you can benefit from:
Preventing fish death or damage during the cycling process
Preventing fish death or damage during the cycling process
- To prevent these things occurring you must simply change out a minimum of 10 percent of the water daily. If you can manage a 20 or 25 percent water change that is even better. You must do this no matter what. Failing to do this will result in any or all of the above mentioned problems.
- Once a week during your daily water exchange you should lightly vacuum the substrate with a siphon. This will help to keep the wastes (fish and food) from building up and helps to prevent a spike in toxic levels.
- It is also advisable to purchase a quality liquid test kit to monitor your tanks levels during this process. API makes a good one but there are other brands on the market as well. If you do the test before you exchange the water you can see if you have had a spike in the levels and need to exchange more than the 10 percent. It will also let you check to see if you have removed enough after a water change. These test kits usually come with a color coded card to read the results. You should try to keep the readings at the lowest level measured. Keeping them at the lowest level allows you room to act should you have a spike in the ammonia for example. If you kept the level slightly higher and had a spike of ammonia overnight and the level rose significantly it would be in a level that was likely fatal to the fish. On the other hand by keeping it at the lowest reading when the spike occurs the level would likely be bad for the fish but not fatal and easily remedied by the daily water change before permanent damage occurs.
cichlidgirl;1638496; said:
Using filter media from an established tank does can be used to "cycle" the tank immediately. Thats how bare bottom tanks work? On top of that adding the gravel will do it 100%. I've never heard that most of the bacteria is found on the glass before.
great info cichlidgirl! thanks for sharing. next time i cycle a tank im going to try your way of doing small waterchanges too.
