leave it at room temp. being natives the warmer temp can stress them out even more. and i would do water changes every other day. check all your water param and check them on your water that you use to fill the tank with.
HELP!!!! MY NATIVES ARE SICK!!!!!
- Thread starter xspainx69
- Start date
Increase the temp between 80-82. Bass can handle 85 and still be predatory but no need to have it this high. Higher temps will speed up the fishes metabolism and promote healing. Also, the warmer temps will speed up the life cycle of ICH. You can only treat ICH when it is not within the host, when you see the white cysts on the fish then they cannot be treated. Also, FW ICH cannot tolerate salt. Add some aquarium salt to the water at the rate of 1 tablespoon for every 5 gallons of water.
Before you do any of this remove the Catfish and treat the bass separately. You could also put the fish in a 10 gallon with an airstone and pump just for the treatment. This way you can save on medicine costs.
ICH really doesn't hibernate, if the free floating ICH does not have a host within so many days it will die.
Before you do any of this remove the Catfish and treat the bass separately. You could also put the fish in a 10 gallon with an airstone and pump just for the treatment. This way you can save on medicine costs.
ICH really doesn't hibernate, if the free floating ICH does not have a host within so many days it will die.
Well I wanna thank all of you for all the assistance and advice that was given to me. I lost some fish that I really loved, but I guess this is how people learn sometimes unfortunetly. My 3 surviving bass and the 1 channel cat have returned to active normal behavior, I tested the water and my results are all at 0 PPM's (Nitrite,Nitrate & Ammonia) , Ph- 7.2 .
I think the water has once again resumed to normal activity and may be safe but before I transport them to my new 75 gallon tank , I wanna make sure that ICH has died completely. I will give it 2 more weeks to see how things work out. Right now my 75 gallon tank has an emperor 400 running with 2 media canisters full of ammonia & carbon chips and 2 filter catridges. I also put in some CYCLE to get that bacteria going. I threw in some Rosy Red Minnow Feeders to see how things go. The 75 gallon new tank readings are also at 0 PPM's and Ph also at 7.0 .
Once again thank you all for your kindness and help.
I think the water has once again resumed to normal activity and may be safe but before I transport them to my new 75 gallon tank , I wanna make sure that ICH has died completely. I will give it 2 more weeks to see how things work out. Right now my 75 gallon tank has an emperor 400 running with 2 media canisters full of ammonia & carbon chips and 2 filter catridges. I also put in some CYCLE to get that bacteria going. I threw in some Rosy Red Minnow Feeders to see how things go. The 75 gallon new tank readings are also at 0 PPM's and Ph also at 7.0 .
Once again thank you all for your kindness and help.
If you have success with your fish over the next two weeks just put the old filter from the old tank onto the new tank. There will already be a healthy supply of bacteria on the old media to support the current fish stock.
Just to help a little for future fish emergencies and also to quarantine new fish. Keep the 30 gallon filter on the 75. If you have to QT a fish just pop the filter into the old tank and let the new fish QT for 2 weeks. This way you can prevent any new out breaks from new fish additions.
Just to help a little for future fish emergencies and also to quarantine new fish. Keep the 30 gallon filter on the 75. If you have to QT a fish just pop the filter into the old tank and let the new fish QT for 2 weeks. This way you can prevent any new out breaks from new fish additions.
