Help with Calote! (Again)

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
it will likely take a few treatments to get rid of them. Its hard to say since we do not have any grasp of the extent of the infestation.

Looks like they're starting to disappear - the enclosure has been cleaned through and swapped out what was needed - and then sprayed down with both products (few hours between each product). I will give her another warm bath, and then she will be re-sprayed. She is currently being kept in a cleaned out 10-Gallon to make it easier to target her mites.

Still no male, and apparently it hasn't arrived yet at the location of the seller....after this week, the bad reviews will start flying. Heck, even after the male arrives, if it all, as this is just too ridiculous.
 
I treat all incoming reptiles for mites whether I see them or not. I also quarantine for 3 months before they make it into my reptile room. I lost alot of my herps a few years back thanks to a certain vendor at NARBC from me not properly quarantining. Not to mention I just expect all new herps to be tick and mite infested.
 
There any reason you wouldn't want to clean the cage and decor with a bleach solution? That usually kills just about everything, and you can just soak in normal water after to get rid of the bleach.
 
There any reason you wouldn't want to clean the cage and decor with a bleach solution? That usually kills just about everything, and you can just soak in normal water after to get rid of the bleach.

I guess my only concern would be the amount of time it would take for the bleach to dissipate from the wooden branches that are in there - wouldn't want the tank misting and high temperature to cause any toxic fumes from the wood (if it makes sense at all)- otherwise there are just two plastic plants, a hide, and a water dish that I'd bleach.
 
If you have trouble completely getting rid of the mites, its very possible they are getting behind the large/coarse scales of that lizard and surviving the reptile spray.

Keep soaking, also the mites will climb to the highest part of the animal (its head) in order not to drown, so try and get the water level right up to its nostrils or as high as your comfortable with.
Just keep an eye on the animal while doing this.
 
If you have trouble completely getting rid of the mites, its very possible they are getting behind the large/coarse scales of that lizard and surviving the reptile spray.

Keep soaking, also the mites will climb to the highest part of the animal (its head) in order not to drown, so try and get the water level right up to its nostrils or as high as your comfortable with.
Just keep an eye on the animal while doing this.

It's like you know 0.0 lol, I've noticed that they are heading up towards the top, but the numbers are shrinking quickly with the Reptile Spray to kill them off. She's looking more clear, so now that I'm back from work she'll go through another soak. Did two warm soaks yesterday.
 
I am currently housing a WC specimen in a completely different room altogether. For preventive measures, this is what I am doing and have always done for incoming animals from unknown sources. Mind you, for bigger purchases I personally would not even entertain the thought of purchasing animals from dubious sellers - just not worth the risk IMO.

I use 1 bottle of NIX headlice shampoo solution http://www.nixlice.com/products/nix-creme-rinse and mix it thoroughly with 4L of distilled water. In the mean time, remove the animal and the water dish. Using an unused spray bottle, spray the enclosure inside and out and wait til it dries completely before putting the animal back in. You should leave out the water dish for 24 hours just in case. Do this once a week for 3-4 weeks (depending on its infestation level) and you should be completely free of mites by the end. If you can, switch out the substrate with paper towels so you can better remove dead mites.

This solution is mild enough to not be detrimental for animals (unless sprayed directly on to be saturated on a juvenile animal, safe for human infants as young as 2 months old) and contains the same ingredient (Permethrin) that today's most popular reptile mite-solution offers (Provent-a-Mite). Just remember that even when you don't see visible mites anymore, they can indeed comeback if you catch them in the early stage of their lifecycle (13-20 days); you may very well still have mite eggs waiting to hatch and re-infest. This solution kills both the mites and their eggs. When used properly, this solution has been tried-and-true for many.

I treat all incoming reptiles for mites whether I see them or not. I also quarantine for 3 months before they make it into my reptile room. I lost alot of my herps a few years back thanks to a certain vendor at NARBC from me not properly quarantining. Not to mention I just expect all new herps to be tick and mite infested.

I also follow these procedures.

Thankfully, I have never encountered snake mites in my personal collection to date. Unless the animal is coming from a source that I personally know and trust - those who follow even more strict quarantine regiments than I and really understands what it means to only sell quality animals, I think it's important to inspect the animal thoroughly in person, or if not possible (such as online purchases), do ask detailed questions about these things. I once had a guy who replied "mites? well not as far as I can tell" - this is not a good enough answer. I have also been let down by the so-called "big breeders" selling me less than perfect, problematic animals. These things may seem overboard but as the collection grows and more of your hard-earned money goes into it, it's definitely something worth the effort.
 
Dont be in any hurry to put any substrate back in the cage to soon, when you are completely sure you you dont see any more mites or little specs that move, wait another week or two.
Keeping the animal on white paper towels the whole time.

If you put the substrate back in the cage to soon, thinking the mites are all gone, they very well might not be or as younggalaxy mentioned you may have mite eggs or super tiny ones that just hatched.
You wont visually see them in the substrate until they start getting bigger, and by then you will have another total reinfestation, and you will have to start the whole treatment procedure all over again.
 
You will want to wait until you think they are completely gone, then wait another month or two.
 
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