i got a metal framed tank that is 36x30x12. it was a growout breeder tank in a local fish store. they had an entire room in the basement of tanks on sale for 1$ per gallon. i grabbed this one for my juvenile snapper to give him more room to run around. its a much bigger footprint for him. anyway i got it home and of course its showing water at the seams. i dont know if i even can reseal it being its one with the metal frame. can i just cut away the old silicone and reseal the inside? ive never done a reseal job but i have done lots of remodeling bathrooms and stuff so i know how to apply silicone and use a caulking gun. i figured i could reseal a tank but for some reason this frame makes me nervous. HELP
help with metal framed tank reseal
- Thread starter biohazardcustomz
- Start date
You have any pictures?
I just resealed the inside of a 90 gallon tank that held a snake with about your knowledge...It was a pain getting all the old silicone off, but the actual reseal was a snap, as long as you follow the instructions laid out by other who have done this...Besides, leave the outside bond seal alone and just reseal the inside silicone, there not one and the same bead.
-tape the seam edges after cleaning old silicone off(acetone?) I used vinegar and water with shop towels, scaping with new flat blades, vaccuuming as I went.
-Lay a thick bead of aquarium safe GE Silicone 1(look this up to verify!!!), smooth to your liking, and pull the tape up before it starts curing.
-Don't forget the bead around the rim.
I ended up using 2.5 of the Home Depot tubes of silicone I applied with a caulking gun.
-Let it sit and cure for 48-72 hours before another leak test.
I just resealed the inside of a 90 gallon tank that held a snake with about your knowledge...It was a pain getting all the old silicone off, but the actual reseal was a snap, as long as you follow the instructions laid out by other who have done this...Besides, leave the outside bond seal alone and just reseal the inside silicone, there not one and the same bead.
-tape the seam edges after cleaning old silicone off(acetone?) I used vinegar and water with shop towels, scaping with new flat blades, vaccuuming as I went.
-Lay a thick bead of aquarium safe GE Silicone 1(look this up to verify!!!), smooth to your liking, and pull the tape up before it starts curing.
-Don't forget the bead around the rim.
I ended up using 2.5 of the Home Depot tubes of silicone I applied with a caulking gun.
-Let it sit and cure for 48-72 hours before another leak test.
here is some pics of the tank. underneath it i can see where its seeping a little but. not lot so not a bad leak. but thats what i would like to do is just repair it by replacing the inside silicone without dismantling the whole tank. i think it could be done because its not a large tank and it wont be holding very much water. just 4 inches or so less than halfway filled for sure. i love the design and you cant find tanks like this anywhere anymore. its the only reason im not completely bummed about my first leaky tank. i only paid 25 bucks for it tho. 
i know it might be hard to get fixed up but my turtle will sure appreciate it.
i know it might be hard to get fixed up but my turtle will sure appreciate it.update on size i was mistaken this one is 30x30x12. the 36x30 was the other one i looked at but it was much older and the metal was in terrible shape. so i got this one instead. its more of a square instead of rectangle.
Thats a pretty sweet tank. Dont use GE I however. That is a sealant, you need and adhesive. Go with RTV 108 if you want clear, RTV 103 if you want black. This is the cheapest I have found it-
http://www.mcmaster.com/#7545a472/=8ovjcn
Its more expensive than GE I, however at least you wont have to worry about a seal giving. Also, you need to fully take it apart. Taking out the inside seam and resealing that may help, however it is not the best solution. Hope that helps a bit
http://www.mcmaster.com/#7545a472/=8ovjcn
Its more expensive than GE I, however at least you wont have to worry about a seal giving. Also, you need to fully take it apart. Taking out the inside seam and resealing that may help, however it is not the best solution. Hope that helps a bit
I both agree and disagree with fishguy I had a 55 metaframe tank that leaked I bought it at a yard sale for $2. anyway I agree that all the old caulk/silicone should be removed from the inside but I disagree in that I used the ge silicone 1 and it sealed fine in fact it was leak free for 3 years until I accidentally made the mistake of cutting some pipe too close to the tank and swung a big pipe cutter through the front glass byebye metaframe
is it harder to take apart the tank and put it back together because of the frame? or easier? i dont want to break the bottom and be screwed. i put filled it and the water level hasnt dropped i just see dark spots on the bottom where is looks as if moisture has crept thru. with this being said what i was going to do is cut the silicone away from the inside edge on the bottom and then lay a thick bead down to replace it. if i have to take it completely apart i need to sit down and re plan it..
Hey, stop worrying so much, you have it easy. I had to reseal a 110 gallon by removing the whole bottom panel. Took me around 3 days in total for the whole process. I used Ge 1 from home depot which if i remember cost me around $5.
Step 1: Go to you local grocery store and ask for some razor, around 4 or 5 would be good(i broke some) 50 C each.
Step 2: go to homedepot or lowes and get the silicone, in your case 1 bottle will be enough if used generously. But get 2 just in case.
Step 3: Remove all silicone with razor, silicone does not stick onto silicone well so might as well remove everything but without removing any glass panes, just remove the silicone from the inside.
Step 4: Apply silicone with caulking gun and smooth out with finger or spoon, i recommend a small spoon, works really well. Be sure to wear gloves and clothes you don't like.
Step 5: Let dry for 2 days but if you are cautious a week. And fill up. If done right, i guarantee no leaks.
Step 1: Go to you local grocery store and ask for some razor, around 4 or 5 would be good(i broke some) 50 C each.
Step 2: go to homedepot or lowes and get the silicone, in your case 1 bottle will be enough if used generously. But get 2 just in case.
Step 3: Remove all silicone with razor, silicone does not stick onto silicone well so might as well remove everything but without removing any glass panes, just remove the silicone from the inside.
Step 4: Apply silicone with caulking gun and smooth out with finger or spoon, i recommend a small spoon, works really well. Be sure to wear gloves and clothes you don't like.
Step 5: Let dry for 2 days but if you are cautious a week. And fill up. If done right, i guarantee no leaks.
Imo, you guys are crazy. I would not trust GE I to hold together a tank. Take a look at this if you need proof-
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/general-planted-tank-discussion/41844-death-big-clear-kahuna.html
He used GE I on that panel, and what do ya know, it busted. There is a reason why tank builders do not use GE I, and this would be it. Just my opinion, however if you cannot afford to spend an extra four bucks a tube for three tubes, this is not the hobby for you. Then again, not my living room. Please take pictures should it burst. I would like some proof on this site too. People seem to think that because its on another site that makes it less true. Dont mean to sound like an ass, but I guess I dont see why people spend thousands on these setups but cheap out on the most important part. Anyway, best of luck to ya!
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/general-planted-tank-discussion/41844-death-big-clear-kahuna.html
He used GE I on that panel, and what do ya know, it busted. There is a reason why tank builders do not use GE I, and this would be it. Just my opinion, however if you cannot afford to spend an extra four bucks a tube for three tubes, this is not the hobby for you. Then again, not my living room. Please take pictures should it burst. I would like some proof on this site too. People seem to think that because its on another site that makes it less true. Dont mean to sound like an ass, but I guess I dont see why people spend thousands on these setups but cheap out on the most important part. Anyway, best of luck to ya!
no sense in making this more than it is everyone has varying opinions if the reseal is done correctly and you take the time to clean the glass properly and give the silicone enough time to seal I dont see why its an issue except maybe the price you pay for silicone I personally do not have alot of loot to work with so I dont see any reason in spending 13 or 14 dollars when I can get the same stuff for $5 Im sure there are plenty of horror stories out there using both brands of silicone the key for me is if you take the time and do it right youre good I personally will continue to use snd recommend the silicone 1 again my two cents