Help with my pump issues

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So I guess the overflow is 1.5 inches throughout, the white tubing in the above picture may not be 1.5 inches but not less than 1.25, probably 1.5 inches. Here is a pic of my overflow. I wonder if turning it to 90 will be enough, what do you guys think? Should I upgrade to 2 inch or higher? A friend of mine suggested that maybe that white tubing for the overflow could be too long, if I made it drop directly to the sump that may work better in terms of better drainage, as of right now there is about 12 feet of it and it wraps around my sump and then the water has to travel up to get back into it. What do you guys think, will it make a difference if I shorten it and have it fall directly into the sump?

View attachment 984667

12 ft wraping around the sump and then having to work its way up is more than likely your problem. Make your runs of hose as short as possible with as few bends as possible.
 
Stand pipe Size Gravity Flow Rating

3/4" 330 gph
1" 600 gph
1 1/4" 910 gph
1 1/2" 1300 gph
1 3/4" 1800 gph
2" 2350 gph
2 1/4" 2960 gph
2 1/2" 3650 gph
2 3/4" 4450 gph
3" 5280 gph



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Stand pipe Size Gravity Flow Rating

3/4" 330 gph
1" 600 gph
1 1/4" 910 gph
1 1/2" 1300 gph
1 3/4" 1800 gph
2" 2350 gph
2 1/4" 2960 gph
2 1/2" 3650 gph
2 3/4" 4450 gph
3" 5280 gph



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Hence why I'm confused how he has 3000gph running through 3 1" drains plus the python filling lol.

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Stand pipe Size Gravity Flow Rating

3/4" 330 gph
1" 600 gph
1 1/4" 910 gph
1 1/2" 1300 gph
1 3/4" 1800 gph
2" 2350 gph
2 1/4" 2960 gph
2 1/2" 3650 gph
2 3/4" 4450 gph
3" 5280 gph



Sent from my iPhone using MonsterAquariaNetwork app



This chart is misleading. He could easily run a Herbie setup and run more than those pumps. I have my 3 1" drains with basic durso standpipes and have no ball valve to throttle them back. It has been running for over a year and has had 0 issues. I can say for sure 2x 1.5" drains can easily handle your pumps. Anyone who disagrees IS wrong. According to that chart I could only run 1800gph+/- and I have had over 3000gph running on a regular basis and honestly have thought about adding a smaller pump for a UV sterilizer...believe what you want to believe, but the proof is in the plumbing
 
So I shortened the white tubing significantly last night, so as to make the flow go directly downward and not have to go back UP into the sump. I have been running the second pump since last night as well and so far no issues. Last time I did the test with the ball valve originally it was fine for maybe 20 minutes and only then started overflowing. I think im 100% fine, but I think I will give it 24 hours just to make sure 100%, because it did raise the water level in my tank about a cm. I am thinking I will be good, and it wont start backing up, but I just don't want it to be like last time where it handled it for a while and then gave out.

Thanks to everyone who posted their advice, this is why I love this forum.
 
Since I'm here, do you guys think I should shorten the pipe coming from my pump to the tank? It is about 10-12 feet, goes on the ground around my sump before heading into the tank. I figure if it made a difference in my overflow, does the same principle apply to the output? Then again don't wanna mess with a good thing and cause flooding issues again, but I am just wondering if there is a benefit in terms of GPH if I shorten the output hose. 1 inch diameter.
 
I will add more info to this thread later, I am just on my lunch break at work and figured I can post what details I have so I can figure out what else people need to help me out. I have a 400 gallon tank, 7x2x4wide, standing on the stand the top is about 6 feet or so. It is running a 90 gallon sump with a MAG1800 pump going through a 65 watt emperor aquatics UV sterilizer. It is drilled in the back with two overflows, and these overflows as well as the pipes leading down to the sump are either 1 inch or 1.25 inch, likely 1 inch I will confirm 100% when I get home. I have another MAG1800 pump I tried running, but shortly after running it the overflows dont keep up and my tank floods. I added a ball valve to the UV sterilizer and even with the ball valve nearly all the way closed, it still floods though it takes a bit longer. I want to be able to run both pumps for the turnover, preferably at full capacity though I don't mind using the ball valve a little bit because that will slow the water down through the sterilizer. Ideally I do not want to mess with the overflows themselves as the double locknuts are friggin tricky to get sealed properly and in the right place, and I don't even know if after the last time I tightened them I can remove them without risking damage to the tank (sad situation I know). I should mention the tube that runs from the sump to the sterilizer is about 3 feet, the sterilizer is about 6 feet, and the tube from the sterilizer to the tank is about 10 feet (gave myself extra in case I wanted to move the tank back. The tube on the other pump is about 10 feet, the one I am not using. Overflow tubing is also quite long, probably over 10 feet. If anyone could take the time to help me out with my project here I would appreciate it, my questions are:

1) Is there any other way I can get both pumps running and not flood my tank without messing with the overflow system at all? (My best guess is no, however someone may have some other suggestions about the tubing length or something).

2) If I have to change the overflows, can I just change the tubing on the outside of the bulkhead and not increase the diameter of the overflow itself? (My thoughts are it may create a bit of a siphon)

3) Regardless of if I have to change the overflow itself or just the tubing, how do I calculate how big of a diameter to increase it to, as in is there too big of one I can put that will have the reverse effect of what is happening now? (Ie. overflows too much and pumps cant keep up)

4) Is any of this even possible without adjusting the diameter of the drilled holes in the tank themselves? (this is likely impossible for me as I have nowhere else to keep the fish in there and as mentioned before the locknuts are terrible on it)

I really hope you guys can help, I did research however guided direction always puts my mind at ease. Let me know waht other info I can include, I am guessing the diameter is 1 inch, and hope the fix is as easy as just increasing the size of the tubing somehow.


View attachment 984637

See your pic of the lighter?
The BARB that the hose is attached to is your problem. To get max flow, you need to eliminate the barb and get a hose that fits over the PVC pipe. Or get rid of hose and use all PVC.

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Agree with the last post. Also you want to account for some. Problems before they occur. I'm adding another drain slightly higher then my other two. Incase one clogs for some reason.

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This chart is misleading. He could easily run a Herbie setup and run more than those pumps. I have my 3 1" drains with basic durso standpipes and have no ball valve to throttle them back. It has been running for over a year and has had 0 issues. I can say for sure 2x 1.5" drains can easily handle your pumps. Anyone who disagrees IS wrong. According to that chart I could only run 1800gph+/- and I have had over 3000gph running on a regular basis and honestly have thought about adding a smaller pump for a UV sterilizer...believe what you want to believe, but the proof is in the plumbing

It's not misleading. There are much more effective overflows/drains but up until now you nor the Op had said anything about using an overflow other then the standard drain.

You said 3 1" overflows handle 3000+gph Wich simply is not true unless there a more complicated style. Wich again you decided to point out after the fact.

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It's not misleading. There are much more effective overflows/drains but up until now you nor the Op had said anything about using an overflow other then the standard drain.

You said 3 1" overflows handle 3000+gph Wich simply is not true unless there a more complicated style. Wich again you decided to point out after the fact.

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What do you mean more complicated style? When you buy a drilled tank they typically come with durso standpipe kits. Mine did and that's what i used. They are just standard mega flow overflow kits. Im not running a Herbie or be an animal. None of my drains are under full sypon. I don't have to use gate valves to throttle drains or returns. I have 3x1" drains hard plumbed and 2x1" returns hard plumbed. Nothing "more complicated" about it. Then again keep believing your interweb stories and I'll live by my real world experience..
 
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