High flow float valve

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Sac39051

Candiru
MFK Member
Nov 19, 2012
121
41
46
Sacramento, Ca
So I’m working on a 300 gallon build.

Currently using 2, 55 gallon drums in the garage for dexorinating/aerating/heating water for water changes on my 150 setup .

Drums are filled from 1/4” RO line from a sink valve and then a float valve shuts off water when filled. This is painfully slow, but bearable with that quantity of water.

My new water bin is a 275 gallon IBC tote, and I would love to fill it faster than 1/4” float valve can accommodate. Maybe I’m just not good at finding the right fittings...but I’m having a hell of a time finding a way to go from sink valve to a high flow float valve.

I was going to use 1/2” pex line, but the fittings on either end don’t seem to work. Any ideas?!?
 
There are larger bore float valves available.
A couple I have used came from farm supply stores and use 1/2 to 3/4" PVC fittings, or flexible clear tubing .
1602063647173.png
It is the red object attached to the sump above.
Below using it to fill a kiddy pool
1602063798383.png
The one above was around $15, there are many others of higher quality, available on-line
 


1007200910 (Large).jpg

I specifically bought this float valve because it is advertised as high flow. I am impressed with it so far but it is plumbed into my house plumbing so I have decent pressure pushing the water through the valve. I would say its flow rate is roughly equivalent to a float valve in a toilet.

An alternative might be to use a float switch to turn on a pump instead of a float valve. I like the float valve simplicity but you could probably get a much higher flow rate with a switch and pump.
 
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Thank you gents, just what I was looking for. On that MZA float, did it come with that bulkhead? Or did you screw it into a standard threaded 3/4” one? Then it looks like I would just need a 3/4” threaded male to 1/2” pex adapter
 
The MZA valve has a built in bulkhead which should work perfectly fine. I drilled my sump for a 3/4" bulkhead before I realized that it was too big a hole for the integrated bulkhead on the valve so I had to use that threaded black 3/4" bulkhead to fill the hole I drilled. The float valve screws into the 3/4" bulkhead without leaking.

I the MZA has 3/4" external straight male threads which are sealing fine with my 3/4" pipe thread bulkhead.

Yes, I used an off the shelf sharkbite fitting to attach the PEX tubing.
 
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Thanks homie ?
I LIED!!!!

I am working on my sump plumbing today and I noticed a small drip between the MZA valve and the bulkhead. The threads on the MZA valve are straight threads so they are not sealing in the tapered NPT threaded bulkhead completely. Luckily my drip is inside my sump.

Please add this adapter to your MZA valve order (if you decide to go this route) to ensure you will not have any drips!
https://www.amazon.com/GESHATEN-Con...uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

The MZA valve might seal ok under a non-pressurized open tank of water. You will definitely want to use this thread adapter if the valve is going to be under any kind of water line pressure. Unfortunately (as usual) the adapter costs as much as the valve itself!
 
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Good lookin out thanks....unfortunately I already plumbed this thing with a ton of thread tape. If it’s a problem I will get the adapter. Won’t know until next weekend when I hook up the water
 
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In case anyone was wondering, that MZA float valve that Oughtsix linked worked great. I had no leaking issues without using the thread adapter, and just using regular pvc thread...your mileage may vary.

This float valve fills my IBC tote very quickly, I plumbed it from my sink valve using 1/2” pex and it moves a lot of water. I’d recommend this set up for anyone trying to fill a large reservoir efficiently.
 
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