Hole sawing tank stand

[Raka]

Add a backing board so that your hole finishes clean. Shouldn't matter if you drill it filled or empty as the load will be applied eventually. Make sure that its a "backing board/panel" and not a support piece.

Talking about drilling stand. Whos drilling tanks to hook up FX's thats all the work without finishing the sump job imo.

 

[Backfromthedead]

Add a backing board so that your hole finishes clean. Shouldn't matter if you drill it filled or empty as the load will be applied eventually. Make sure that its a "backing board/panel" and not a support piece.

Talking about drilling stand. Whos drilling tanks to hook up FX's thats all the work without finishing the sump job imo.

Back when I ran an fx6, it worked the best when I had it hard plumbed right into the tank and used custom drains and nozzles. I find the corrugated tubes, strainer, nozzle, pretty much the whole hangover the rim setup that comes with the fx unsightly and inefficient. Much easier to keep air out of the lines and prime the can when the input/output are fully submerged too

 

[Backfromthedead]

I'm still waiting for the op to confirm this. They clearly say "hole-saw the TANK" in post #1.

 

[Raka]

Back when I ran an fx6, it worked the best when I had it hard plumbed right into the tank and used custom drains and nozzles. I find the corrugated tubes, strainer, nozzle, pretty much the whole hangover the rim setup that comes with the fx unsightly and inefficient. Much easier to keep air out of the lines and prime the can when the input/output are fully submerged too

Hide mine under and behind pathos. Just cant imagine doing the risky/scary part without the best filter upgrade as well.

 

[seanh]

I have re-read my initial post and the comments and I can see I have created some confusion.

Just to be clear I only want to create two holes in the back of the stand to allow for the fx4 pipe work to exit the cupboard where the filter is housed - I hope that is a little clearer - oops

 

[seanh]

I think by the sounds of it the one cupboard he wants to drill has a solid back on it. I believe he wants to drill some holes in the back of the stand to route the filter pipes out the back.

This is correct, I just want to create holes in the back to run the pipe work through.

The whole back is currently a solid piece of wood (well laminated chipboard) bar two holes at the back of the cupboard on the right side which are being used for fx6 pipe work. I want to create two holes in the back of the left side cupboard to do the same for an additional fx4's pipe work.

 

[esoxlucius]

A little puzzling at first but I think we understand what it is you're wanting to do now S seanh .

You're asking if you need to break down the tank to do this job, or whether you can do it with the tank full? And also what position the holes need to be in?

Well, if your tank is up against a wall then how are you going to get behind it to drill your hole in the first place! Seems to me like you need to move the tank away from the wall to have the room to enable you to do this tricky job. So I think lowering your water level or emptying your tank completely is unavoidable.

As to the position of the holes? I'd probably have them relative to the other holes.

Now, the drilling part. If the back of the cabinet (the laminated chipboard) is right up against the back panel of your glass then you are going to have to be extremely careful. What I'd do, but only because I have them available at work, is to get a very thin section of tin plate or something similar and push it down the tiny gap between your glass and cabinet back. Then when you carefully drill your hole you will hear the hole saw bit scrape against the tin plate, as opposed to aquarium glass, which would scare me.

But of course if you decide to go the route of completely emptying your tank, then you can move the actual tank away from the back of the cabinet and no protective tin plate or whatever will be needed. Just my two cents!

I wish you luck!

 

[seanh]

Thanks for all the input.

Here are a couple of pics that show what it is I plan on doing. I suppose my concern was drilling the stand with the weight on the stand but it seems that won't be an issue so I think I will go ahead and just drill the holes. There is a good 4 inch gap between the stand and the wall so no concerns over damage there other tan making sure no cables/pipe work are in the way.

Right hand cupboard with existing holes



Left hand cupboard currently with no holes

 

[esoxlucius]

I'll tell you what. If you'd have posted those two simple pictures in post #1 you could have saved everyone from scratching their heads and made the thread about 3 posts long!!!

I thought I knew what you were on about, I was dead wrong! That is a simple job, no emptying your tank needed, or even part emptying it, and no need to move your stand. Just reach in through the front cupboard and drill the hole, job jobbed!

 

[seanh]

I'll tell you what. If you'd have posted those two simple pictures in post #1 you could have saved everyone from scratching their heads and made the thread about 3 posts long!!!

I thought I knew what you were on about, I was dead wrong! That is a simple job, no emptying your tank needed, or even part emptying it, and no need to move your stand. Just reach in through the front cupboard and drill the hole, job jobbed!

Minus the first half of your post, thanks for your response ??