How do yall clean out your water change hose?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
The Morning said:
This works.

View attachment 1366649
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I have one of these but my python is 50ft and this would only clean the ends. But thank you and btw I just received this brush and I use it for my canister filters, and yes it works very good


krichardson said:
I've never cleaned my hose out before but that must be some gunk build up if it is impeding the water flow.
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Yes the flow of mine and its only a year old has had its flow cut down and Im assuming its due to build up.
I used to be able to get a siphon and turn my water off and just let it drain but it no longer does this.
 
jcarson said:
Hey MFK

Just curious as my python has started to have a visible gunk build up AND a loss of flow.
How does one go about cleaning this hose?
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I haven't had any gunk from water changes but I use a trick to drain my hose (70ft) in like two minutes. I have a mud room with a multiple coat hook rack over one of the doors. I use this to wrap the hose as I drain.

If you have "The green hook" close the valve after your fill. Walk this to your drain sink. Open the valve to the hook (water will shoot out) then open the python valve (pull down) attached to your faucet bib. Now run the tap wide open. The reverse pressure will run the water out. As the water moves backwards, lift each section of hose to shoulder height. As you see the water 'retreat' wrap your hose on a wall or door hook. Water seeks the lowest point so just lift and wrap until you hear a loud whoosh at the faucet bib. Unscrew from bib and finish wrapping your empty hose. Easy peasy!

Water in my area has calcium and minerals so I always drain this way to avoid 'setting' water that might gunk up or crystallize later. Sometimes I double check because if I go too fast water is still in a portion of the hose.
 
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As some others have mentioned, it’s best to make sure it’s completely drained in the future so you can avoid this happening again.

Now, my recommendation for a fix is to go to the hardware store and get some new tubing. It’s fairly cheap. You can even get larger tubing if you want to help increase flow. Then, buy the brass splices they sell to put the hoses together. Make sure and get the correct adapter size if you’re going with a larger tubing size. If you get ones that have a sharp “nite” in the backside of the barbs, then you don’t even need hose clamps, but otherwise get hose clamps. Next, cut out the tubing on your python, but leave a small length at each end to put your splices into. Lastly, use the splices to splice together the new tubing with the ends. You can increase or decrease the length when doing this. If your python is longer than you need, then you should shorten it because this will help with water flow.

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They have plastic fittings too, but for a water change hose that is not permanently on the tank, I recommend brass for durability. There are many other fittings available and I recommend you step up a hose size if you want better flow. Friction in 50 ft of tubing is quite a huge restriction. The larger tubing size gets rid of a large portion of it.
 
You could also get the python hose extensions. They come in 10 and 20 foot lengths with the adapters attached. I did this because 50ft wasn't long enough to get through my rec room.
 
Let me assure everyone that I my hose is drained very well as I am rolling it back up after each water change.
But I am noticing a build up that either I am just overthinking or nobody else is experiencing.

My changer is stored in a dry place with only drops of water visible upon storage.

What I am speaking about is bio-gunk that has accumulated in the same way this stuff collects on our canister filter hoses.
 
Well I know some people bleach their decor, could you use that for the tube? Just a thought.
 
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