Easy enough to set something up with a couple solenoid valves and timers to do similar too.
How do you all do Water Changes?
- Thread starter SalviniCichlidFan
- Start date
Easy enough to set something up with a couple solenoid valves and timers to do similar too.
There's also the totally non-automated, but hands-free system of which I am fond. All my tanks are drilled and equipped with bulkheads and valves. They are all connected by means of cut-to-length garden hoses to a manifold and pump that exhausts the waste water outside, at my choice either to my basement sump drain or to an outdoor tap which I use to water my flowers and veggies.
My water is from a well, never treated at all, but stored in a couple of large storage tanks in the crawlspace next to my basement. This lets it warm up to ambient basement room temperature on its own, for free. I can do about 350 gallons from these bins, which flows by gravity through more hoses into my aquaria. The bins are filled by still more hoses running from a cold water faucet installed specifically for this purpose. If I need more water at one time, I have an on-demand water heater that feeds directly to the tanks by means of...wait for it...more hoses!
I will point out that all hoses that deliver water to aquaria or holding bins are arranged such that when the water is turned off, they drain dry into those tanks. I never let water sit in a hose and then later enter an aquarium. I'm sure many aquarists who get turned on by banks of carefully assembled PVC pipes will scoff at this system, but it is easy to configure, just as easy to re-configure if needed to accommodate changes in tanks, inexpensive to build and it works perfectly. I can do an 80% water change amounting to about 550 gallons in all my tanks in a couple of pleasant, stress-free hours, which includes the time spent re-filling the storage vats.
All these hoses are permanently in place, clipped to walls, the backs of stands, the ceiling, etc. Between the hose system and the numerous strategically located valves, I can change as much or as little water as I want, in any combination of tanks, simply by opening/closing the appropriate valves and manually switching the exhaust water pump on and off. I never need to lift a bucket of water. I never leave the fishroom when water is running, either in or out...don't ask what brought me to that resolution. Despite my trade (industrial electrician)...or perhaps because of it!...I have a distrust of unnecessary automation. Sitting in a comfortable chair in my fishroom as water exits this tank and/or enters that tank, dog by my side, cold brew in hand, music playing...is my favourite relaxation.
Niki_up
, I'm curious. Why do you mention specifically re-filling with water a couple degrees cooler than tank water? I usually use water that is within a degree or so of the temperature of the tanks, and I wouldn't worry excessively if I had a 3-degree variance...but I wouldn't actually aim for that. What's the idea?
My water is from a well, never treated at all, but stored in a couple of large storage tanks in the crawlspace next to my basement. This lets it warm up to ambient basement room temperature on its own, for free. I can do about 350 gallons from these bins, which flows by gravity through more hoses into my aquaria. The bins are filled by still more hoses running from a cold water faucet installed specifically for this purpose. If I need more water at one time, I have an on-demand water heater that feeds directly to the tanks by means of...wait for it...more hoses!
I will point out that all hoses that deliver water to aquaria or holding bins are arranged such that when the water is turned off, they drain dry into those tanks. I never let water sit in a hose and then later enter an aquarium. I'm sure many aquarists who get turned on by banks of carefully assembled PVC pipes will scoff at this system, but it is easy to configure, just as easy to re-configure if needed to accommodate changes in tanks, inexpensive to build and it works perfectly. I can do an 80% water change amounting to about 550 gallons in all my tanks in a couple of pleasant, stress-free hours, which includes the time spent re-filling the storage vats.
All these hoses are permanently in place, clipped to walls, the backs of stands, the ceiling, etc. Between the hose system and the numerous strategically located valves, I can change as much or as little water as I want, in any combination of tanks, simply by opening/closing the appropriate valves and manually switching the exhaust water pump on and off. I never need to lift a bucket of water. I never leave the fishroom when water is running, either in or out...don't ask what brought me to that resolution. Despite my trade (industrial electrician)...or perhaps because of it!...I have a distrust of unnecessary automation. Sitting in a comfortable chair in my fishroom as water exits this tank and/or enters that tank, dog by my side, cold brew in hand, music playing...is my favourite relaxation.
Niki_up
, I'm curious. Why do you mention specifically re-filling with water a couple degrees cooler than tank water? I usually use water that is within a degree or so of the temperature of the tanks, and I wouldn't worry excessively if I had a 3-degree variance...but I wouldn't actually aim for that. What's the idea?
Our water changed system is tied into our mechanical filtration system. We have two vertical pipes extending down to just off the bare floor. We call them "poop sucker" pipes. Feces and debris scuttle across the floor and are removed via the poop suckers to two RTL-25 filters run with a Reeflo Hammerhead pump.
Poop sucker
The tall vertical pipe right front comes from a 55 gallon holding tank sitting on a shelf. In the 55 gallon tank is a vertical pipe going to the bottom of the tank. It is connected to the tall vertical pipe. There is a line running from the utility sink to the 55 gallon tank. Behind the tall vertical pipe, is a pipe running down and under the house and to the back patio.
To do a water change, we go outside and open the valve to the drain pipe that goes under the house. The water drains via the poop sucker pipes in the tank. We have to pay attention because we can drain the tank dry. (which I did when I got distracted with a phone call).
To refill the tank, we open the valve on the tall vertical pipe, and the water can be gravity fed back into the main tank. We turn on the hot/cold faucet at the utility sink to keep refilling the 55 gallon holding tank. It is much faster to turn the Hammerhead pump back on and pump the water back into the main tank. We have to watch the holding tank, because the water is pumped out quickly - more quickly that the faucet can refill the holding tank. If we suck the holding tank dry, we can lose the prime in the return line which is a hassle.
Draining is very fast, and refilling is fast for the first 55 gallons. We then have to take a 10 minute break to refill the 55 gallon holding tank before we can resume filling the main tank. So our water changes consist of opening and closing valves.
tank refilling
Poop sucker
The tall vertical pipe right front comes from a 55 gallon holding tank sitting on a shelf. In the 55 gallon tank is a vertical pipe going to the bottom of the tank. It is connected to the tall vertical pipe. There is a line running from the utility sink to the 55 gallon tank. Behind the tall vertical pipe, is a pipe running down and under the house and to the back patio.
To do a water change, we go outside and open the valve to the drain pipe that goes under the house. The water drains via the poop sucker pipes in the tank. We have to pay attention because we can drain the tank dry. (which I did when I got distracted with a phone call).
To refill the tank, we open the valve on the tall vertical pipe, and the water can be gravity fed back into the main tank. We turn on the hot/cold faucet at the utility sink to keep refilling the 55 gallon holding tank. It is much faster to turn the Hammerhead pump back on and pump the water back into the main tank. We have to watch the holding tank, because the water is pumped out quickly - more quickly that the faucet can refill the holding tank. If we suck the holding tank dry, we can lose the prime in the return line which is a hassle.
Draining is very fast, and refilling is fast for the first 55 gallons. We then have to take a 10 minute break to refill the 55 gallon holding tank before we can resume filling the main tank. So our water changes consist of opening and closing valves.
tank refilling
Good for keeping nitrates low, but since you still have to gravel vac, how much work are you saving? I can see it working really well with bare floor tanks.
1) Vacuum gravel until 50% is gone.
2) Siphon out however much water I want to change while scraping algae
3) Empty 5 gallon buckets
4) take temperature of water and use same temp tap water
5) treat water with Seachem Prime Wc
6) put water in
7) clean everything up
edit: forgot to add that I siphon out uneaten food, as well as turn off filter and suc. I have a noob question. Is it good to turn off the light during a water change?
2) Siphon out however much water I want to change while scraping algae
3) Empty 5 gallon buckets
4) take temperature of water and use same temp tap water
5) treat water with Seachem Prime Wc
6) put water in
7) clean everything up
edit: forgot to add that I siphon out uneaten food, as well as turn off filter and suc. I have a noob question. Is it good to turn off the light during a water change?
I have a question for you- if it is good to turn the light of for a water change- should I just do my water changes after lights out or before lights on?
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I like doing 10-20 percent a day in my glass tanks- and by default I do it when the lights AKA the sun is on.
I change out 30% - 50% of the water weekly, using only a siphon & plastic five gallon feed bucket. I water the flowers & bushes with it. The foliage is blooming & my shoulders & back stay strong, Lol.
I don't gravel vac, but simply depend on the beneficial bacteria embedded in the 4" deep substrate to break down the detritus. I haven't gravel vacuumed in several years. The tanks stay healthy & clear.
My large population of various Botia Loaches ensure no food accumulates on the bottom.
I treat the replacement water with Prime, but really most quality name brand water conditioners will do. Buying a Python is very tempting, but after three + decades of fishkeepering, I'll stick with what works.
I don't gravel vac, but simply depend on the beneficial bacteria embedded in the 4" deep substrate to break down the detritus. I haven't gravel vacuumed in several years. The tanks stay healthy & clear.
My large population of various Botia Loaches ensure no food accumulates on the bottom.
I treat the replacement water with Prime, but really most quality name brand water conditioners will do. Buying a Python is very tempting, but after three + decades of fishkeepering, I'll stick with what works.
Big tank water change plan:
When it comes to big tanks, one needs more than a siphon or a python which work great for 55 gallon tanks. My big tank set up has been the longest tank upgrade in the history of fish forums. And indeed, I haven't done anything in the tank for the last four years. Multiple surgeries and family sickness have derailed the tank completion. Am scheduled for another hand surgery in a month, so will be incapacitated again. We are really not into tank maintenance, and the easier water changes are, the more we like it. We cannot employ the same water change system we have on the small 300 gallon tank, but the plans should work. While we could drain the big tank through poop sucker pipes like we are currently doing, we will use the two Ultima II 4000s plumbed to the sump and main tank. Purging the Ultimas will drain water from both tank and sump. Draining water will be fast with the Reeflo Barracuda gold pumps. With no large holding tank to pump water back into the tank, I anticipate refilling to go slower than I would want, but we have hot/cold water lines plumbed directly above the tank and to the sump for refilling tank and sump.
By standing on the platform behind the tank and using an extended handle car wash brush, I will be able to wipe the front, back and sides of the tank.
The platform runs the entire length of the tank and has a hinged floor for easy access the the 405 gallon sump tank which will be partially under the platform.
When it comes to big tanks, one needs more than a siphon or a python which work great for 55 gallon tanks. My big tank set up has been the longest tank upgrade in the history of fish forums. And indeed, I haven't done anything in the tank for the last four years. Multiple surgeries and family sickness have derailed the tank completion. Am scheduled for another hand surgery in a month, so will be incapacitated again. We are really not into tank maintenance, and the easier water changes are, the more we like it. We cannot employ the same water change system we have on the small 300 gallon tank, but the plans should work. While we could drain the big tank through poop sucker pipes like we are currently doing, we will use the two Ultima II 4000s plumbed to the sump and main tank. Purging the Ultimas will drain water from both tank and sump. Draining water will be fast with the Reeflo Barracuda gold pumps. With no large holding tank to pump water back into the tank, I anticipate refilling to go slower than I would want, but we have hot/cold water lines plumbed directly above the tank and to the sump for refilling tank and sump.
By standing on the platform behind the tank and using an extended handle car wash brush, I will be able to wipe the front, back and sides of the tank.
The platform runs the entire length of the tank and has a hinged floor for easy access the the 405 gallon sump tank which will be partially under the platform.
1 - Turn off pump and powerhead
2 - Take off lids and wipe them
3 - vacuum the pieces of shrimp shell that were caught in the powerhead and have fallen to the sand
4 - remove half the water
3 - clean sponges (every 6 weeks or so, only for mechanical)
4 - Clean inside glass (and try not to get bitten)
5 - replace water from kitchen tap (python). I only use cold water for refill. Add Prime
6 - put lids back on turn powerheads and pump back on
7 - clean outside glass
Almost forgot to mention... There's usually a couple beers mixed in there somewhere too.
2 - Take off lids and wipe them
3 - vacuum the pieces of shrimp shell that were caught in the powerhead and have fallen to the sand
4 - remove half the water
3 - clean sponges (every 6 weeks or so, only for mechanical)
4 - Clean inside glass (and try not to get bitten)
5 - replace water from kitchen tap (python). I only use cold water for refill. Add Prime
6 - put lids back on turn powerheads and pump back on
7 - clean outside glass
Almost forgot to mention... There's usually a couple beers mixed in there somewhere too.
