FreshyFresh ....... that was most likely due to a very low disinfectant residual. Try that where I live, with any fish species of any size, and you can kiss them good bye.
How fast does water conditioner work?
- Thread starter Fish Tank Travis
- Start date
Yeah, I do think that it will be ok for most fish, but I'm still on the fence because I am wanting to keep discus in the tank. I don't run a water softener so I would think that the ph would be pretty stable with the water, but I'm not positive.
The location that you have listed, Dayton OH, softens the water at their end. The chlorine residual in 2016 was posted at 0.26-1.63 ppm. How stable the pH is will depend on the buffering capacity (alkalinity) of your tap water.
Amazing what few clicks will get you.
http://www.daytonwater.org/370/Water-Quality http://www.daytonwater.org/DocumentCenter/Home/View/1693
Amazing what few clicks will get you.
http://www.daytonwater.org/370/Water-Quality http://www.daytonwater.org/DocumentCenter/Home/View/1693
From the link RD posted it appears Dayton does "not" use chloramine(AKA Total Chlorine), but uses straight chlorine. Chlorine does dissipate fairly quickly.
Any sodium thiosulphate solution would work to neutralize it, and although many people dose for the tanks entire volume, I only does for the amount of gallons in a water change.
I knew the water companies average dosage of 1.30-to 1.50 ppm, because I worked there as a chemist/microbiologist. There are test strips available with a free chorine tab that will let you know what concentration you are actually dealing with, they are found at pool supply shops, or even Home Depot. I like the ones that also show alkalinity, pH and hardness.
Any sodium thiosulphate solution would work to neutralize it, and although many people dose for the tanks entire volume, I only does for the amount of gallons in a water change.
I knew the water companies average dosage of 1.30-to 1.50 ppm, because I worked there as a chemist/microbiologist. There are test strips available with a free chorine tab that will let you know what concentration you are actually dealing with, they are found at pool supply shops, or even Home Depot. I like the ones that also show alkalinity, pH and hardness.
I once forgot to add add conditioner after a large scale water change (~500 gallons on my 770 Gallon Tank). All my fish showed signs of stress and my clown loaches were all swimming upside-down, doing death spirals. As soon as I saw them, I realized my mistake, so I grabbed my bottle of Seachem Safe (sodium thiosulfate) and added my normal amount. I kid you not, within 5 seconds of adding the Seachem Safe, all of the loaches were swimming upright as if nothing had happened. It was insane. The stuff works fast. I've been adding Safe as I refill for years and I've never had any issues.
FYI, water municipalities will typically increase chlorine/chloramine levels during heat waves. Bacteria grows faster in warm water, so that's why they add more...they want to make sure they keep the bacteria in check.
FYI, water municipalities will typically increase chlorine/chloramine levels during heat waves. Bacteria grows faster in warm water, so that's why they add more...they want to make sure they keep the bacteria in check.
FYI ......... Seachem Safe is not composed of sodium thiosulfate. Different chemical make up, which is why Safe/Prime will also render free ammonia harmless, while sodium thiosulfate only reduces chlorine.
Always learn something new from you, RD. Thanks for setting me straight. I just read a good article about it and it doesn't sound like people who have water that's treated with Chloramines should use sodium thiosulfate (exclusively) for the reasons you mentioned. It'll take care of the chlorine side of things but it'll leave you with ammonia. Glad I didn't go out and buy straight sodium thiosulfate and learn that lesson the hard way. Thanks RD. Internet high five!
For anyone that's interested, here's the article I was referring to: http://www.aquariumadvice.com/making-tap-water-safe-for-the-aquarium/
For anyone that's interested, here's the article I was referring to: http://www.aquariumadvice.com/making-tap-water-safe-for-the-aquarium/
