How full should my wet/dry sump be? (bonus pics inside...)

[terd ferguson]

The water level you have it at is fine. You could actually drop it a few inches if you didn't want any of the bioballs subermerged. If your media is totally submerged it isn't really a wet/dry anymore.

I have mine set up so that about half my bio media is submerged. It is just a personal preference. If you were to get ceramic rings or something else comparable get a media bag to put them in and you can just toss in where the bio balls currently are. If there is no more room you will need to remove some of the bio balls.

Very nice job for your first DIY filter. It is a lot nicer than my first attempt.

First, thanks for the compliment. Second, regarding the ceramic rings, would it be ok to put them in a media bag and use them on the pump side?

Thanks again.

 

[Wolf3101]

You can use a couple of pieces of eggcrate and some mesh screen to make a layered arrangement...Bio-balls...Ceramic rings...Bio balls.... this way you can add the expencive ceramic rings slowly and replace only as many bio-balls as you need.

 

[terd ferguson]

the water level is just fine...you want some extra room in case of a power failure.

I see your point. I have already tested how much water will drain with the pump shut down and the ball valves open (simulating a power failure). This scenario only adds about two inches to the water volume in the sump.

The reason it drains so little water is because the overflow box only holds so much water. So, once the water level in the main tank goes below the level of the overflow box, only the water that the Durso style pipes can reach will drain into the sump. The intakes for the Durso standpipes are roughly 4 inches below the water level in the main tank.

The only other way for water to enter the sump (in the event of a pump or power failure) is through the return pipe. I worked this problem out by drilling a syphon break hole in the return pipe just below the water level in the main tank. So, even though the actual hole where water comes out of the return pipe may be under water, it will not drain once the syphon break hole sucks air.

That's a long winded explanation to say there is not really a danger of flooding in the event of a power or pump failure, but I hope you understand. All in all, with your opinion and the others that have posted, I think the water level as it is pictured in my first post is probably ok.

Thanks everyone for the advice (and compliments) so far.

 

[duke33]

good info.

 

[ercnan]

I see your point. I have already tested how much water will drain with the pump shut down and the ball valves open (simulating a power failure). This scenario only adds about two inches to the water volume in the sump.

The reason it drains so little water is because the overflow box only holds so much water. So, once the water level in the main tank goes below the level of the overflow box, only the water that the Durso style pipes can reach will drain into the sump. The intakes for the Durso standpipes are roughly 4 inches below the water level in the main tank.

The only other way for water to enter the sump (in the event of a pump or power failure) is through the return pipe. I worked this problem out by drilling a syphon break hole in the return pipe just below the water level in the main tank. So, even though the actual hole where water comes out of the return pipe may be under water, it will not drain once the syphon break hole sucks air.

That's a long winded explanation to say there is not really a danger of flooding in the event of a power or pump failure, but I hope you understand. All in all, with your opinion and the others that have posted, I think the water level as it is pictured in my first post is probably ok.

Thanks everyone for the advice (and compliments) so far.

Sounds like you understand what's needed.
Sorry to sound so "basic" in my last post.

 

[terd ferguson]

Sounds like you understand what's needed.
Sorry to sound so "basic" in my last post.

No offense taken. You never know how much (or little) knowledge someone has asking a question. But even knowing all that, I still didn't know how full my sump should be, lol.

 

[ercnan]

No offense taken. You never know how much (or little) knowledge someone has asking a question. But even knowing all that, I still didn't know how full my sump should be, lol.

Actually, and I'm sure others disagree, but I leave 1-2 inches "wiggle room" in the "pump off/power fail" mode.
I typically "overfilter", so I like the extra volume.

 

[rallysman]

It's fine the way it is. None of the bioballs "need" to be submerged.

Out of curiosity, why is the ball valve after the pump partially closed?

 

[ercnan]

Too much pump, not enough drain?

 

[terd ferguson]

It's fine the way it is. None of the bioballs "need" to be submerged.

Out of curiosity, why is the ball valve after the pump partially closed?

^ ercnan is correct. The pump is a little more powerful than the two drains. The ball valve is open about half way and this seems to equalize the water coming into the sump with the water going back into the tank.

By the way, the pump is a Quiet One 6000, approximately 1500 gallons per hour. I will also have two Penguin 1140 powerheads (approx. 300 gph each) with filters whenever I move the fish over. I'm just trying to equalize the temperatures now. The 55g the fish are in is at 80 degrees, the new tank is at 76 degrees. It won't be long now.