Kk thanks guys, I actully turned the heater the wrong way and it jumped up to 85.8 
Ill drop it down 1 degree every day untill its at 82-83
Ill drop it down 1 degree every day untill its at 82-83
how hot is too hot?
- Thread starter milkman407
- Start date
rallysman;523156; said:Yea, that should be ok. Just make sure it well oxygenated and keep in mind that it will increase metabolism, meaning you may need to do more water changes
How do you know if your getting enough oxygen in the tank? I have a walmart aerator that does 20-60 gallons. Is that enough for my 100g tank or should I invest in something as powerful as Old Faithful? I remember reading on another thread that too much can be a bad thing.
I have an protein skimmer which oxyginates or w/e the water alot. Also i have 2 hang on filters and a power head
lascombes;523302; said:
Unless you have a DO meter, the only way to tell if your water has enough oxygen is by the behaviot of your fish. Rapid breathing, surface gasping are obvious indicators of an aeration problem.
There's no way for us to judge whether or not you have sufficient O2 producing/enhancing devices in your tank with specific details. What fish are in that 100? What filtration are you running? How often are you doing water changes? etc, etc...
The most simplistic recommendation I can make at this time is: your pump says it'll handle up to 60 gallon aquariums. You're running a 100 gal aquarium. Do I really need to do the rest of the math on this?
10% water changes don't really do much.
I'll try to explain it in math terms.
Let's say your fish are producing a constant 20 units of ammonia, whatever the units may be, which is converted to nitrates a week, so 10 units each water change?
So assuming the tank starts at 0, there will be 10 units of NO3 in the tank at the 1st water change, 1 unit of which u will remove and replace with fresh water.
The next water change comes around and the fish have produced more waste so you're up to 19 units of NO3, 1.9 (we'll round to 2) of which you'll remove. That leaves 17 units of NO3.
If you continue to do calculations like this, you'll see that it adds up pretty quickly and the 10% water changes hardly make a dent. I usually like to change out 30-50% because of this.
I'll try to explain it in math terms.
Let's say your fish are producing a constant 20 units of ammonia, whatever the units may be, which is converted to nitrates a week, so 10 units each water change?
So assuming the tank starts at 0, there will be 10 units of NO3 in the tank at the 1st water change, 1 unit of which u will remove and replace with fresh water.
The next water change comes around and the fish have produced more waste so you're up to 19 units of NO3, 1.9 (we'll round to 2) of which you'll remove. That leaves 17 units of NO3.
If you continue to do calculations like this, you'll see that it adds up pretty quickly and the 10% water changes hardly make a dent. I usually like to change out 30-50% because of this.
So your saying i should either do like 20-25% twice a week or 50% ones a week?
Also my temp is now 84.4 and stable. Dropped from 85.8.. Perfect temp for discuss muahahaha
Also my temp is now 84.4 and stable. Dropped from 85.8.. Perfect temp for discuss muahahaha
i think in between tempature range for your fishes, please consider 76degrees.(or at leas in my thoughts)
Redtail_Watcher;523727; said:
And, just what would those thoughts be to rationalize 76F for tropicals? Aside from leaving them open to frequent fungal attacks, I can't think of a reason to skirt one degree away from a highly problematic setting.
One other thing to keep in mind if you plan to change the temp a lot - different strains of bacteria are more efficient at different temperature ranges. Changing your temp by several degrees (like dropping from 86 to 78) can easily put you back into a mini cycle as new strains recolonize your tank.
