jcardona1;4369679; said:Posted this on Xander's thread too, figured ill make my own thread as well....
Wanted to take the time to show my little process for taking pics of fish. it's been work pretty good for me so far. please note i did NOT clean my glass and these are jpg files straight from the camera. so the quality isnt the best and they're a little under-exposed. but i think some of them are pretty good
i use a sheet of eggcrate over the tank since i have a rimless tank. i take a piece of white plastic rain gutter and elevate it a few inches to clear my speedlight (disney cups optional ).
i place the speedlight in the middle pointing up and trigger it with a wireless radio trigger (CowboyStudios brand). place the flash in manual power mode and adjust settings accordingly. i havent tried it with two speedlights but i will in a few days.
thanks man! yup, i'm a D90 guySteveR;4371938;4371938 said:Great Pics dude. Your a D90 man ain't you? I got one and I have the SB-900. The D90 wirelessly controls the flash without the aid of extra transmitters, just pop up the flash and put it into commander mode? Maybe it's slightly diff over here but I do basically what your doing and the flash fires off camera with no extra bought transmitter? I'm guessing you may not own the SB-900 as it looks different to mines in the photo.
I wanted to ask you about "manual" flash mode, since you seem like the man to ask in here. I've been taking photograph shots in manual for years but never had the capability to know (and take this further) into the strength of what to flash, so have just used iTTL or ITTL BL etc. For fish I set it to manual sometimes and 1/1 (I understand this is the highest power you can get to then allow the most light in there possible).
My question I guess, is how do you know when you'll only need 1/128 or 1/30 or whatever?
Oh and another one, what does your nikon kit comprise of so far? I've got the D90, SB900 speedlight (man that is an expensive flash but awesome), and the 18-105 VR lens, awesome versatility!
I'd be interested to know whats in your kit bag.
yeah, i understand what youre saying. when shooting aquariums, i dont even look at the light meter. for one, they are only measuring the light REFLECTING off of the subject, not the light actually falling on it. now how can you measure the light reflecting off a fish? you see why the built-in meter is so ineffective for aquarium photography?SteveR;4372003;4372003 said:Thanks man I'm gonna look into these transmitters, I'll need it when I get a second speedlight and start using outdoors etc. One thing I still don't get though.
As far as I understand on the D90. I dial in my settings for my exposure, based on the light meter in the viewfinder. I set to 1/200 and I set maybe F9 or something. The light meter obviously thinks that it will be massively underexposed so reads like well down on the negative scale. I know that in TTL the flash will fire and bring it up close or on the "good exposure" midpoint. (I understand what your saying though, my results vary wildly so I want to start using Manual flash, however I've become slightly afraid of it.) What I don't understand is how does the manual mode do this, how can we possibly know how much it's going to affect what the lightmeter says? Are we just wildly guessing that if it reads like at the bottom of the minus scale and the meter is flashing, that hm a 1/4 will do it, or a 1/2 will. Is that just purely guessing? Do you get me, I dunno if I'm explaining this very well...
Oh and thanks for the kit list! Interesting. God I am gonna be broke, I have too many hobbies and I drive a Mazda RX8 which totally drinks fuel and empties my bank every time I service her.
in those cases ill use TTL or TTL-BL flash. i only use manual flash for aquariums. for general photography, the TTL flash works, and it works well. for cases like this, ill meter off the background i want to capture, like a bright outdoors scene through a window, or sunset sky. in these cases metering for your subject will cause the background to be blown out completely.SteveR;4372310;4372310 said:Thanks for your input, makes sense with aquarium photography.
What about using manual mode for example as fill flash so that you can illuminate a subject yet set exposure for a background. How would you know what to put the flash at based on the light meter reading reflected, not incident light? If i use TTL it fires test pulses and works it out, is this the only way aside from messing about with manual?